HEI distributor ?
#46
I put a [Pertronix] "Flamethrower" 12 volt coil (solid packed for reliability after buying two bad new oil filled coils), took off the Ballast resister, dropped the thing in, connected 3 wires/plug wires and it's been a dream ever since.
No control box or other garbage - I wanted to keep it clean. The three wires link the distributor to the coil, 12 volt power, and my tach. So only the tach and power wire go out to it from the firewall.
It came with a bunch of springs, weights and about 15 pages of performance enhancmence tips. I never changed it from how it was shipped. I guess I could take it up to the performance place and they could tweek it a little using those, but I'm VERY happy with it!
#47
I don't know why I thought you had a Y-block in your truck!!! (which would use the MSD8383)
Your dist looks similar to most of the other ones that MSD supplies.
I really like the way they look and install.
They must ship it with the advance curve that matches your engine build. I am thinking you wouldn't have to "tweak" unless you wanted to do a little more to your engine.
If it's more or less stock, it's probably "right" out of the box!
I think I'll get the Y-block model!
tnx!/Rick
Your dist looks similar to most of the other ones that MSD supplies.
I really like the way they look and install.
They must ship it with the advance curve that matches your engine build. I am thinking you wouldn't have to "tweak" unless you wanted to do a little more to your engine.
If it's more or less stock, it's probably "right" out of the box!
I think I'll get the Y-block model!
tnx!/Rick
#49
I don't know why I thought you had a Y-block in your truck!!! (which would use the MSD8383)
Your dist looks similar to most of the other ones that MSD supplies.
I really like the way they look and install.
They must ship it with the advance curve that matches your engine build. I am thinking you wouldn't have to "tweak" unless you wanted to do a little more to your engine.
If it's more or less stock, it's probably "right" out of the box!
I think I'll get the Y-block model!
tnx!/Rick
Your dist looks similar to most of the other ones that MSD supplies.
I really like the way they look and install.
They must ship it with the advance curve that matches your engine build. I am thinking you wouldn't have to "tweak" unless you wanted to do a little more to your engine.
If it's more or less stock, it's probably "right" out of the box!
I think I'll get the Y-block model!
tnx!/Rick
First off, the head end of the unit is used on all their models for all engines, they just adapt the body of the unit and the shaft, gear, etc. You can guess what the most common application is, so they ship all of them with advance springs and curve set up for that (SBC). Also with a vac advance can that is appropriate for that.
To get it set up for my flatty, I hacd to buy a set of MSD plug wire ends ($30), an Accel adjustable advance unit ($20), and put in the correct springs and bushings in the mech advance unit (these are included).
I love the way the unit performs, but it is "NOT" ready-to-run as-shipped. Unless you have a SBC!
#50
I know this may sound dumb but is there a way we can add this to or make this thread something like a sticky, just incase someone else is looking for info on installing a HEI distributor in their motor (at least just the question and the plug that was found that goes to it). If I'm able to get the time off I was thinking of taking a bunch of pics when I do the motor swap. I just dont know if I'll get the time off so I can do it right or if it will be one of those an hour here and there things.
#51
I assumed most of the same things as you state, when I forked over $300 for my ready-to-run flathead dizzy. Nothing could be further from the truth!
First off, the head end of the unit is used on all their models for all engines, they just adapt the body of the unit and the shaft, gear, etc. You can guess what the most common application is, so they ship all of them with advance springs and curve set up for that (SBC). Also with a vac advance can that is appropriate for that.
To get it set up for my flatty, I hacd to buy a set of MSD plug wire ends ($30), an Accel adjustable advance unit ($20), and put in the correct springs and bushings in the mech advance unit (these are included).
I love the way the unit performs, but it is "NOT" ready-to-run as-shipped. Unless you have a SBC!
First off, the head end of the unit is used on all their models for all engines, they just adapt the body of the unit and the shaft, gear, etc. You can guess what the most common application is, so they ship all of them with advance springs and curve set up for that (SBC). Also with a vac advance can that is appropriate for that.
To get it set up for my flatty, I hacd to buy a set of MSD plug wire ends ($30), an Accel adjustable advance unit ($20), and put in the correct springs and bushings in the mech advance unit (these are included).
I love the way the unit performs, but it is "NOT" ready-to-run as-shipped. Unless you have a SBC!
The model I got was specifically for FE engines. As a matter of fact there was a warning about trying to use it in other Ford engines. Maybe they do use common parts on top, but if they are changing out the shaft and gears, are pretty much building it up for a specific model.
The power curves in the instructions were unique to the FE engine as well.
I didn't have to alter it a bit and I don't think it would have done so if it were set up for a Chevy 350. I dropped it in as I recieved it and it has worked perfectly!
Maybe the Flathead model you bought was different. Or maybe mine would run better if I were to change out the advance stuff. But there's not much improvement to be had that I can see, and there were no suggestions for such when I had th eengine put on the dyno.
But then again, I only have my own experience to site - might be different for other folks.
I know this may sound dumb but is there a way we can add this to or make this thread something like a sticky, just incase someone else is looking for info on installing a HEI distributor in their motor (at least just the question and the plug that was found that goes to it). If I'm able to get the time off I was thinking of taking a bunch of pics when I do the motor swap. I just dont know if I'll get the time off so I can do it right or if it will be one of those an hour here and there things.
#52
for those who like to save lots of cash on Hei ignitions, i have a duraspark distibutor that is wired into a 4 pin hei module. i followed a recipe off gofastforless.com , it works good.
the module pins are labled B, it goes to positive on coil. C, it goes to neg on coil, the duraspark has a 3 pin connector. Purple goes to G on module, Orange goes to the W on module, Black goes to mounting screw on module. dont use a resister and use any coil you want. best if you mount that module to a heat sink. Look inside that old computer you never got rid of. these modules are cheap, 20 bucks, i already had the duraspark, but rebuilt ones are cheap. that guy has lots more ignition conversions on that site. worth looking at.
the module pins are labled B, it goes to positive on coil. C, it goes to neg on coil, the duraspark has a 3 pin connector. Purple goes to G on module, Orange goes to the W on module, Black goes to mounting screw on module. dont use a resister and use any coil you want. best if you mount that module to a heat sink. Look inside that old computer you never got rid of. these modules are cheap, 20 bucks, i already had the duraspark, but rebuilt ones are cheap. that guy has lots more ignition conversions on that site. worth looking at.
#53
Join Date: Jun 1999
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55f100tx nailed it Been running that type of HEI setup for a long time in many applications.
It is soooo inexpensive, it works sooooo well, it is soooo easy to install.
If the module does fail ,never had it happen yet, it only takes a couple of minutes to change. You can carry a spare in your glovebox and not even know it is there it is so small. Plus at 20 bucks a pop you do not mind carrying a spare..... do not know of many people carrying spare aftermarket ignition boxes, especially at their price
It is soooo inexpensive, it works sooooo well, it is soooo easy to install.
If the module does fail ,never had it happen yet, it only takes a couple of minutes to change. You can carry a spare in your glovebox and not even know it is there it is so small. Plus at 20 bucks a pop you do not mind carrying a spare..... do not know of many people carrying spare aftermarket ignition boxes, especially at their price
#54
I dunno. I could never personally bring myself to run a chinese knock-off of that fugly inverted GM coffee can on top of any of my otherwise gorgeous Ford power plants. I've adapted Ford's DuraSpark system to all of my transplants for years and never had a problem. I've moved beyond distributors completely now, though. There are several nice options for adding distributorless ignition to just about any engine. There's something very cool about custom tailoring your advance curve with a laptop. Weights 'n springs?!? We don't need no stinking weights and springs!!!
#55
55f100tx nailed it Been running that type of HEI setup for a long time in many applications.
It is soooo inexpensive, it works sooooo well, it is soooo easy to install.
If the module does fail ,never had it happen yet, it only takes a couple of minutes to change. You can carry a spare in your glovebox and not even know it is there it is so small. Plus at 20 bucks a pop you do not mind carrying a spare..... do not know of many people carrying spare aftermarket ignition boxes, especially at their price
It is soooo inexpensive, it works sooooo well, it is soooo easy to install.
If the module does fail ,never had it happen yet, it only takes a couple of minutes to change. You can carry a spare in your glovebox and not even know it is there it is so small. Plus at 20 bucks a pop you do not mind carrying a spare..... do not know of many people carrying spare aftermarket ignition boxes, especially at their price
#56
I dunno. I could never personally bring myself to run a chinese knock-off of that fugly inverted GM coffee can on top of any of my otherwise gorgeous Ford power plants. I've adapted Ford's DuraSpark system to all of my transplants for years and never had a problem. I've moved beyond distributors completely now, though. There are several nice options for adding distributorless ignition to just about any engine. There's something very cool about custom tailoring your advance curve with a laptop. Weights 'n springs?!? We don't need no stinking weights and springs!!!
Hey BOR, I hear ya about the big huge HEI distributors. As a matter of fact one reason I wnet with my MSD is because I wasn't sure one would even fit with my arrangement. So I was carful to pick a distributor that was really close to the stock distributor. I don't think it looks too bad. One things for sure, there are lots of different set ups and lots of different configurations.
Note the unused ballast resistor sitting atop the chrome coil (that was bad bought off the shelf). It went away when the new coil was installed.
#57
[quote=Julies Cool
Note the unused ballast resistor sitting atop the chrome coil (that was bad bought off the shelf). It went away when the new coil was installed.[/quote]
Julie,
What's that little tank in front of the dist? (expansion tank?)
(I wonder if I could do that on a Y?......would I want to?)
All except the Y-block!
Note the unused ballast resistor sitting atop the chrome coil (that was bad bought off the shelf). It went away when the new coil was installed.[/quote]
Julie,
What's that little tank in front of the dist? (expansion tank?)
(I wonder if I could do that on a Y?......would I want to?)
There are several nice options for adding distributorless ignition to just about any engine.
#58
I think in the cars these came out of it was higher than the radiator and was the high point in the cooling system. On mine it's lower that the radiator top. With the extra coolant I can keep the level a bit lower in the radiator so when it warms up I don't overflow.
But more than that, I just thought it looked cool
I'm not sure about putting one on a y-block - (ND) Bill says they were poorly made and prone to leaking.
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