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I just bought a 52 F1 with a stuck 6cyl. I have a 302 sitting on a stand waiting to be put in something. I also have a t10 4spd in the floor. I really want to keep this as traditional as possible. What kind of clutch setup would be easiest to do?
Well, it's going to be difficult to adapt the "throw out fork" type clutch on the 302/T10 you have withthe "rotating" pedal you have.
The easiest way to do this In my opinion would be to adapt your clutch pedal to a hydraulic master cylinder of types and use a Hydaraulic actuated clutch pedal rather than a linkage.
Food for thought, I know you are getting the 4 spd, but putting an automatic transmission on will really save you a lot of headaches. I have a C6 and use the stock column as the shift so you can't see any difference from OEM.
I'm not sure how much you know about the T-10's, but they have a reputation for popping out of 2nd and 3rd when they get a little wear in them. The toploaders are a better choice, but the T-10 isn't terrible since you already have it. Just make sure that you take the time and trouble to tear it down and give it an overhaul first. The clutch can be connected with a cable without a lot of trouble if you're capable of doing a little light fabricating. I found a suitable cable at a local big truck supply house when I set one up in my first F-1 years ago, but all kinds of generic cables are available from rod 'n custom type vendors also.
Hello ,87 notch, I just wanted to say ,Wellcome to F T E . I can't add anything to what julies cool f-1 suggested . You may be able to work out a linkage for the clutch depending on your skills but it's not easy. I have done clutches back in the 1960s and 70s , but now I go auto tranys.
I'd be interested in hearing more about the mechanics of the cable doo hicky BOR, do you have a site link or maybe an article link I could look at? Maybe some pics of what you did?
The auto will be much easier c4 can just about be bolted in. I went with a toploader Overdrive 4speed( same mounting position and overall size). I did have to weld a new tab to the bottom of my clutch pedal. and make an actuation rod for the clutch not too hard but lot's of time involved. I believe it possible to use two brake pedals but then you'll have to re-bend the brake/clutch pedal.
I got the inspiration from some forum members(thanks James) It's a bit more robust than it looks in the pics. It did take a few tries to get it correct. I kept pulling out the fork, PITA. As soon as I added the spring all was peachy..
And unless you convert a toploader to a top shift (it can be done) you have to modify a truck position mount to work with the factory crossmember.
What about the stock rearend in these trucks, will they hold up to a small block. I have read the thread on which rears fit to do a swap, but didn't know how strong the stocker is.
the stocker is a dana 41 plenty strong enough. basically the same as a dana 44 without the auto brake adjustment parts. If you have to do the brakes anyway just swap in the spring kit and adjustment parts from a later 44. I swapped in a ford 9" from a pre 72 truck, easy swap. The hard part was finding the correct factory spring/shock mount. Search around the site lot's of way's to skin a cat. The only reason I went to a 9" is it was cheaper than buying and paying someone to setup new gears. I had a 4.25 factory rear if it was a 3.90 I would have kept it as is. A small block will turn 3K all day long...
Let me tell ya, that shifter had to one of the biggest PITA I ever had to deal with!!! I went through 3 shifters and 4 different mounts. To make one work. I did locate a top shift tower for it but, I'm fairly certain it won't work with my OD tranny.. Something about the 4-3 gears reversed for OD .. That "V" cut on the mount is where I had to clearance the shifter to get it into reverse..Doh!