Early 99 track bar bushings
#16
01-19-2012, 10:52 AM
#17
01-19-2012, 02:32 PM
I also have an early 99 with the smaller track bar and would like to install the larger adjustable track bar.
My question is if you're having to modify the Skyjacker lower bracket by machining out the upper hole, couldn't you just modify the existing hole to accept the larger bolt without having to buy the Skyjacker bracket?
Is this OK or is there a reason that this can't be done?
My question is if you're having to modify the Skyjacker lower bracket by machining out the upper hole, couldn't you just modify the existing hole to accept the larger bolt without having to buy the Skyjacker bracket?
Is this OK or is there a reason that this can't be done?
For the bolts, I went with grade 8 bolts and self locking nuts from my local fastener shop. The nuts were special order, but I have a good relationship with the shop and they ordered just the two for me.
#18
02-15-2012, 08:43 PM
Yeah, I didnt go that way. I figured out how to use the old brackets and track rod. This alowed me to use the Energy suspension bushings. I ended up grinding the "lips" off of the eyelets of the track rod and pressing the bushings in. Total cost, under 13.00$ I took a couple of pics, If anyone needs some pointers let me know.
#19
04-15-2012, 08:45 AM
#20
12-08-2017, 12:25 PM
I know this is an old thread but I will still share my experience.
I installed the Energy suspension bushings on my track bar.
I first pressed out the old ones. I used a 20 ton press and it basically breaks out the inner side of the bushings. This doesn't completely remove the old bushing, you still need to remove the outer metal shell that is stuck tight in the track bar eyes.
I used a sawsall and carefully cut the metal shell in 2 from the inside. Then use an old screwdriver(or punch) and hammer and punch the pieces out.
Then comes the tricky part with the ES bushings. They are 1 piece and need to be forcefully pressed in. A shop press helps but.. it can be done without.
You need to buy a 2 inch exhaust connector. Most stores have these. Mine was 3 bucks at oreilly's
They are tapered halfway and kind of act as a funnel. But in my case the narrow side was still a little too large to match the inside of the track bar eye. so I cut some slits into the narrow side (about 8 ) and then used 2 hoseclamps to tighten the end together. Now it is the same size as the track bar eye inside.
Then lube up the new bushing REALLY good. The entire outside of the bushing needs to be well greased. Use the supplied grease or use your own. Then grease up the inside of the adapter we made , the narrow side. Now set the connector we made on top of the track bar eye with the narrow side down. Stick the new busing in there and press it down into the connector. I used a pressed and a large socket but I think if you use a large socket and a hammer it will also slide right into the trackbar eye. My press barely needed any force to get it in.
If you do it this way, the adapter will squeeze the new bushing down to make it fit inside the trackbar eye. The grease helps it too. It also prevents the bushing from going in sideways or deforming and refusing to go in. (trust me, I tried many ways)
I've heard of people heating up the bushing but you risk melting it. Keep it as warm as possible, it will help as well.
I am not sure why ES didn't just make a 2 piece bushing but I guess it is more solid this way. These track bars take quiet a bit of force.
To remove the track bar I noticed it comes out very easy when you let the truck rest on jack stands sitting under the front axle. The bolts are torqued down TIGHT (400 ftlbs) so use a breaker bar and a metal pipe. But once they break free, you can almost unscrew by hand ! (depending on amounts of rust ofcourse)
I first tried to remove the trackbar bolts with the suspension hanging free and it was impossible to get it out. I then set the truck on the axles and it was a breeze.
Having good trackbar bushings will improve the steering feel and make it easier to keep the truck driving in a straight line. If the bushings have ANY wear, the axle can move slightly to the left and right resulting in constant steering corrections to keep the truck in your lane.
But, do first check out the steering box play. This is another main cause of steering issues.
Hope this helps anyone doing this. I know a lot of people just replace the entire bar but this isn't too bad to do .
I installed the Energy suspension bushings on my track bar.
I first pressed out the old ones. I used a 20 ton press and it basically breaks out the inner side of the bushings. This doesn't completely remove the old bushing, you still need to remove the outer metal shell that is stuck tight in the track bar eyes.
I used a sawsall and carefully cut the metal shell in 2 from the inside. Then use an old screwdriver(or punch) and hammer and punch the pieces out.
Then comes the tricky part with the ES bushings. They are 1 piece and need to be forcefully pressed in. A shop press helps but.. it can be done without.
You need to buy a 2 inch exhaust connector. Most stores have these. Mine was 3 bucks at oreilly's
They are tapered halfway and kind of act as a funnel. But in my case the narrow side was still a little too large to match the inside of the track bar eye. so I cut some slits into the narrow side (about 8 ) and then used 2 hoseclamps to tighten the end together. Now it is the same size as the track bar eye inside.
Then lube up the new bushing REALLY good. The entire outside of the bushing needs to be well greased. Use the supplied grease or use your own. Then grease up the inside of the adapter we made , the narrow side. Now set the connector we made on top of the track bar eye with the narrow side down. Stick the new busing in there and press it down into the connector. I used a pressed and a large socket but I think if you use a large socket and a hammer it will also slide right into the trackbar eye. My press barely needed any force to get it in.
If you do it this way, the adapter will squeeze the new bushing down to make it fit inside the trackbar eye. The grease helps it too. It also prevents the bushing from going in sideways or deforming and refusing to go in. (trust me, I tried many ways)
I've heard of people heating up the bushing but you risk melting it. Keep it as warm as possible, it will help as well.
I am not sure why ES didn't just make a 2 piece bushing but I guess it is more solid this way. These track bars take quiet a bit of force.
To remove the track bar I noticed it comes out very easy when you let the truck rest on jack stands sitting under the front axle. The bolts are torqued down TIGHT (400 ftlbs) so use a breaker bar and a metal pipe. But once they break free, you can almost unscrew by hand ! (depending on amounts of rust ofcourse)
I first tried to remove the trackbar bolts with the suspension hanging free and it was impossible to get it out. I then set the truck on the axles and it was a breeze.
Having good trackbar bushings will improve the steering feel and make it easier to keep the truck driving in a straight line. If the bushings have ANY wear, the axle can move slightly to the left and right resulting in constant steering corrections to keep the truck in your lane.
But, do first check out the steering box play. This is another main cause of steering issues.
Hope this helps anyone doing this. I know a lot of people just replace the entire bar but this isn't too bad to do .
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