Ok,,Ill redo it when I get to that point..Thanks

 

See? I knew i heard that somewhere...

 

These pumps only draw 3-4 amps. The electronics energizes a coil that pulls the plunge against a spring allowing fuel to flow through the hollow plunger. the valve in the end of the plunger then closes sand the spring pushes the fuel out of the pump. If they are deadheaded, the plunger will try to cycle but it can't move leaving the electronics uneffected. Running them dry could damage them since the plunger will cycle without lubrication or cooling.

The switch from Summit is a 3 prong, 3-5 psi switch. It has a common and anormally open and a normally closed contact. GM uses them on their EFI engines for the idiot light and fuel, pump control. A junkyard item if you're short on cash.

If you are concerned about saving power by removing the MFP, it only uses about 0.0004 HP to pump 0.1GPM at 7 PSI. The electric will take about 0.06 HP to do the same job. Just a thought!

As I've said before, you don't have to eliminate the MFP. If you mount the EP between the MFP and the EP you will not push fuel into the crankcase.

 

I have mines wired in to the fuel shut off plug in .

 

do you leave the electric pump running all the time of just to prime the IP at start up??

 

I just hit mine when starting up and run it only until the motor catches, then turn it off - only 15 seconds or so seems to do the trick.

 

I am looking to complete a setup similar to that in post #8 on my e350 with a 7.3 idi that has had air intrusion issues since I purchased it.

I will be the first to admit that I don't know the 1st thing about working on a diesel motor...with that ignorance, I am trying to get some input on what the line which is now connected to the auxiliary pump in post 8 was originally leading to. Any help is much appreciated.

 

I still don't see why not just put a check-valve on the intake side of your water separator... it solves all these problems without adding another electronic/electric piece to fail.

 

Can you give us a picture of where you put yours. I bought a primer bulb but I'm unsure where to put it.

 

http://robbiethe1st.afraid.org/image...140723_006.jpg
The rubber hose comes from the mechanical fuel pump, through that squeeze-bulb, and then into the intake of the separator.

 

Cheers for the pic.
So you got rid of your metal line altogether?

 

Either that, or just whack it down near the pump and use that end as a fitting -- slip it into hose.
I'm actually not sure on this rig; it was already converted to rubber hose by the PO; I just added the squeeze-bulb.
I've replaced the other side with rubber as well, actually(filter to IP), but that's very recently.

 

I really do like this idea of the inline primer pump, Marianna2003 had a neat setup that I want to do. Has anybody else attempted this setup? and what is the outcome? I am mostly wondering about the lifespan of the system.

 

i used a facet duralift electric pump instead when my mechanical pump died. best modification i ever made to the truck.

 

I am looking for a new one or a rebuild kit for mine.This is the only one I have seen so dont know how common it is.but it was nice to have when I ran out.