Special thanks go out to beachbumcook and 69cj for helping us. I took what they had stated in various places and put it into one document/procedure. If I missed something please let me know and I will revise it. This has made it easier for me to make sure I do it correctly and completely.
There will be two posts after this.

 

Beachbumcook 6.0L Coolant Flush Procedure
With The Addition of VC-9 Engine Cooling System Iron Cleaner and 69cj Thermostat Removal Option
<O</O
BBC does it every 50,000 miles just because it is fun to do and he is **** about maintenance. PLEASE NOTE THE MIN LEVEL ON THE DEGAS BOTTLE IS NOW THE NEW FULL LEVEL.

1) Buy Four (4) gallons of Ford Premium Gold Coolant (or Zerex G05), Two (2) bottles of VC-9 and one (1) Thermostat O-ring (if removing T-stat) at dealer.

2) Buy 15-18 gallons of DISTILLER WATER at local grocery store.

3) Open Radiator Stopcock and/or Drop lower radiator hose until radiator is empty.

4) Close stopcock and/or reconnect hose.<O</O

5) Add 2 bottles of VC-9 to degas bottle (The VC-9 is in the Ford procedure for flushing prior to water flush and new coolant). Add distilled water until the degas bottle is at MIN. Go for a 20 to 30 mile drive (Some say you need to drive at temp for 1 hour to fully clean system). Drain system, then proceed either with or without Thermostat.<O</O

Thermostat Removal Option: (Thank you 69cj)<O</O
A) Pull air cleaner assembly.
B) Drain coolant (See step 3 above).
C) Remove upper radiator hose.
D) Remove 2 nuts on t-stat housing.
E) Lift and move press sensor bracket to the side. Not a lot of play in it but it will move.
F) Remove 2 more nuts on t-stat housing.
G) Remove housing. It will lift right off of the studs.
H) Reverse procedure to re-install. Use a new O ring (5 bucks at dealer). I used Vaseline to hold the O ring in place. Tighten nuts to 23Nm (17lb/ft).
<O</O
<O</O
6) Add distilled water to degas bottle until it reads MIN.

7) Drive vehicle with heater on HIGH (HOT) until temp gauge goes to normal and thermostat opens (Excursion owners Do Not Forget Rear Heater). If thermostat is removed just idle for 5 minutes gently varying idle rpm’s between 750 and 1500 or turn High Idle Mod on.

8) Repeat steps #3,#4, #6 and #7 no less than 4 or 5 times until drain water is clear.

9) You now have 100% distilled water in your system.

10) Drop lower hose 1 last time, drain and reconnect. Reinstall Thermostat if removed earlier.

11) Look in manual to verify your system capacity (27.5 quarts) and add 3½ gallons of FULL STRENGTH Ford Premium Gold (or Zerex G05) coolant into your degas bottle.

12) Start motor and add distilled water to bring system level to not exceed the MIN Mark on degas bottle. PLEASE NOTE THE MIN LEVEL ON THE DEGAS BOTTLE IS NOW THE NEW FULL LEVEL.

13) Drive truck around to open thermostat and let cool once or twice to purge any air. May need to add more distilled water (don't add more coolant)... but when done you have flushed your entire system and have a perfect 50/50% concentration of coolant and distilled water.<O</O

 

Memo/Note:
The VC-9 is in the Ford procedure for flushing prior to water flush and new coolant. Local 6.0 tech says they do use the VC-9 and then flush with water. If there was an oil cooler leak then after the VC-9 flush they then flush with Simple Green or Cascade, or vice/versa, also recommended by Ford.

 

You might note that if you have pulled the t-stat you do not have to take it out for a drive during the flushes. Just run it for 5 minutes at about 1100 rpm's, hi idle mod rpms, and drain. You do not have a t-stat to open up and have full flow immediately. This will save taking it off of the jack stands if you have the truck jacked up.

 

So, which way have you found it to be easier? I was going to do Beachbumcook method and install my Dieselsite coolant filter the same time. I like the fact of removing the t stat and not having to worry about getting it up to operating temp. But, at the same time it takes for me to remove the T-Stat as opposed to just simple flushing and getting up to operating temp might negate the extra work of removing the T-Stat. How much longer do you think it added to your work for the day? And also, i though the VC9 wasnt required for the motorcraft Gold Premium?

 

Note step 7 above.

 

VC-9 is not an additive! It is an iron cleaner that you run at temp for 20 or 30 miles and then flush out. It is recommended by Ford. Some here don't use it I did. Your choice as to what you feel comfortable with. Tech at one of our local dealers said that he does use it so I did. 52 bucks is worth peace of mind to me. I changed mine on the time limit of 5 years. That equates to 10 bucks per year. I think I can afford that.

 

I did mine a couple of weeks ago. My only comment is basically what I would do differently on MY next time. I will definitely remove the T-stat so that this whole thing doesn't take so long. Not removing it meant I had to drive 20 minutes to get the T-stat to open and circulate, then wait 30 minutes until it was cool enough to be safe to drain, and repeat that 5 times. You're looking at 5 hours minimum. Removing the T-stat and running for 5 minutes in my driveway would have been so much better. Live and learn.

Also, on the heater, all you really need to do is make sure the valve opens. For trucks without EATC, just put the dial on defrost, fan on low. Look to see that the valve is open and you will be good. You could also just pull and plug the vacuum line on the valve, and open it manually.

 

03-6L-X - thanks for putting this together. It should help quite a few folks.

Edit ............ (March of 2020)

It will be discussed later in the thread, but IMO (even though it can work) the Ford Premium Gold coolant is TOO PRONE TO PROBLEMS and not "robust" enough to do well if temperatures get too hot or if additives get depleted or if mixed with other coolants!!
Go with a Cat EC-1 rated ELC coolant!

We have learned a lot since 2010.

 

I am in the process of doing this way right now and on my 05 it is impossible to remove the thermostat housing bracket due to one of the hard metal fuel lines are right over the bolt to remove the back bracket. You will have to remove the fuel line from the fuel filter housing to achieve this method, at least thats the way it is on my 05. So, the thermostat is not the easiest way to go about this with quite a few things haven to be removed. My thoughts so far...... FAIL.

 

I thought the Zerex G05 was already a 50/50 mix. Did you find a different concentration at a auto store?

 

The commonly sold one is premix --- at Walmart.

Can get the full strength stuff at NAPA.

 

I noticed the same thing on my 03. Need to check to see what the secret is.

 

Got ya. What's the price difference compared to the dealer?

 

I don't know how you can make the premix work. You would have to get ALL the water out of the system. How would you accomplish that?