There are several threads on how to do this. do a search on the
"crack pipe mod" it is a mod where you cut the egr cooler down and just leave the upper section with the exhaust and coolant ports of it together. You then weld a plug in the exhaust ports and run a hose to connect the two coolant lines. You can then also drop the up pipe, cut the scoop out and weld a plug in it too.
If you don't want to cut the egr cooler down you could just weld a plug in each of the exhaust gas ports on the cooler and then cut the scoop out of the up pipe and weld a plug in it. (making a sneaky pipe.) The benefit of this is that you will still pass a visual inspection.
I will do a search quick and try to find the links I have been doing alot of research lately trying to save myself $600.00
There is a fairly easy to do the EGR delete if you're a little handy with a wire welder or know someone who is, and you don't have to get rid of the EGR cooler even if it's leaking internally. PM me if you'd like the details.
the second talks about jb welding the egr shut and unhooking it, which I am not sure I want to do, but it also has a link posted by pipewelder71 showing pics of how to modify the cooler and uppipe and be able to leave the egr valve plugged in so hopefully no codes or lights. here it is:
In my opinion if you have a day, the right tools, and a little creativity. You would be much better off doing this mod yourself instead of spending the $600 on the kit.
There is another thread going on now though where some guys are saying this mod will screw up your trucks computer settings and your truck won't run right if you don't have a tuner to account for the change. I personally have no clue, but that may put a hault to my plans.
I always thought the was a stand alone mod that helped the longevity of the truck and I don't really have the cash for a tuner. Not to mention if I had a tuner I would have a hard time keeping my foot out of the floor and that would lead to ARP headstuds and so on.
My 2004 6.0L was bucking and cutting out, acting very similar to fuel starving or clogging issues. Each time it would buck or hesitate it would puff out a cloud of black smoke.....It was really weird. It happened during acceleration and was acting up way too often. Very annoying.
Then I started to smell antifreeze...
I was really concerned that I might have helped further along the dreaded head gasket issues...
I did some searching and ran across people cleaning or deleting the EGR valve. I simply unplugged it and now it works just like they say... faster turbo spool upand no more smells or bucking. I hope it will hold together long enough for me to save up for a better engine.
Its very odd that something stupid like an EGR valve could cause so much headache.
A friend and I put in an EGR Delete Kit into my F250 on the other day. Everything went failry smooth until we got to the two bolts on the lower end of the Y-pipe. These were the only bolts that gave us problems and we had to break them to get them out but the kit contained replacement bolts anyway. Since the turbo was out we havled it and cleaned it and it runs great now. A couple of things that the kit didn't have and I feel should have had was the gaskert for the oil inlet at the top of the turbo and the o-rings for the bottom of the turbo. The o-rings may have been able to be reused but not worth the risk as far as I'm concerned, but the gasket was a must. These parts are not that expensive approximately $24.00 for both o-rings and gasket. We found that even though the instructions did not call for the removal of the anti-freeze resevrvoir it was helpful to remove it and I flushed it out since I had it out. Another lesson learned that was not mentioned in the instructions was to connect the Y-pipe back to the turbo before tightening the ends onto the manifolds. The whole process took over 10 hours but would have been less if the Y-pipe bolts wouldn't have been such a problem.
The end result is my 6.0L diesel is purring like a kitten.
I also forgot to mention that we left the EGR valve installed instead of blocking it off so the PCM still thinks it actuating and thus no codes or check engine light. AS there is no more exhaust going to it, it is simply actuating itself inside the instake plenum.
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