84 F150 300 six: swapped motor, huge timing error
#1
84 F150 300 six: swapped motor, huge timing error
i bought a fairly expensive ($1300) rebuilt motor at advance. so the crank and cam are already installed, but i had to swap the front pulley which has the TDC mark. i turned the crank and watched the valves on cylinder 1 to see which TDC to install the distributor for, and since i do this about once every 5 or 10 years, i didn't realize the valves were not doing what they should do. so it backfires, and i assume i screwed up so i use the other TDC and now it wheezes. in both cases i moved the distributor back and forth a mile, and it never ran a bit. so i pull the valve cover and pay a bit more attention to the valves, and it sure looks like the TDC mark on the crank is 180 degrees away from the timing reference plate, so i move the distributor 90 degrees and it runs, except now i have to crawl underneath to shine a timing light and there's no reference plate down there anyway. i didn't mess with the cam-crank setting, and the crank has one key and my pulley has one key slot, so i can't think of what i might have done wrong. did i pay 1300 for a screwed up motor or am i being brain dead here?
#2
i bought a fairly expensive ($1300) rebuilt motor at advance. so the crank and cam are already installed, but i had to swap the front pulley which has the TDC mark. i turned the crank and watched the valves on cylinder 1 to see which TDC to install the distributor for, and since i do this about once every 5 or 10 years, i didn't realize the valves were not doing what they should do. so it backfires, and i assume i screwed up so i use the other TDC and now it wheezes. in both cases i moved the distributor back and forth a mile, and it never ran a bit. so i pull the valve cover and pay a bit more attention to the valves, and it sure looks like the TDC mark on the crank is 180 degrees away from the timing reference plate, so i move the distributor 90 degrees and it runs, except now i have to crawl underneath to shine a timing light and there's no reference plate down there anyway. i didn't mess with the cam-crank setting, and the crank has one key and my pulley has one key slot, so i can't think of what i might have done wrong. did i pay 1300 for a screwed up motor or am i being brain dead here?
#5
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ff-inside.html
Yes.
#7
your right, I have used the screwdriver, but a strea is better choice, your not turning the motor far, only enough to make sure the piston is at the top. as far as being old school, that's because I'm an old fart!!!
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#9
#10
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Maine (NorCal Native)
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If you bring it to TDC #1 on Compression stroke, Use a straw to feel the piston to TDC.
Then you can re-mark the dampener. This will get it close...
To do it right you need a degree wheel and a proper piston stop.
You can make a piston stop out of a spark plug by breaking, drilling and tapping out the center.
-Enjoy
fh <font color="#FF0000">:</font> )_~
Then you can re-mark the dampener. This will get it close...
To do it right you need a degree wheel and a proper piston stop.
You can make a piston stop out of a spark plug by breaking, drilling and tapping out the center.
-Enjoy
fh <font color="#FF0000">:</font> )_~
#11
#12
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Just a piece of advice for next time, if the distributor isn't lining up with the oil pump shaft and won't drop that last little bit, just turn the crank over a little bit while pushing lightly down on the dizzy, it'll fall right into place, and you won't go out of time as the gears are already engaged.
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