I have a 2004 F-250 with a 6.0L
Starts smoking blue @ normal running temperature not when cold or warm.
The blue smoke has a rhythm as like a cylinder firing order...
but not all cylinders.
I'm thinking injector seals...
Any ideas out there ?

Thanks, Gregg

 

Lets bump this question and hopefully Bismic will see this and chime in with a great answer.

 

Generally blue smoke is oil burning, a warn valve seal could make a cylinder smoke but they usually all wear about the same.

 

Probably injector O-rings on 1 or 2 cylinders. Do a cylinder contribution test, and a power balance test, and also a relative compression test if you have access to a Ford IDS scan tool. You can shut down individual cylinders and see if that has any affect on your smoke issue. These tests should narrow down what cylinder to look at. My bet is an injector O-ring. Is there alot of blowby if you remove the oil fill cap while idling?

 

This light intermittant smoke is very hard to troubleshoot at home. Matty169's advice is very good to try to narrow it down, but your description better fits a turbo oil seal.

FYI:
<TABLE style="WIDTH: 503pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=670 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 503pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 24502" width=670><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 503pt; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl25 height=17 width=670>Blue or blue/white smoke:</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 25.5pt" height=34><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 503pt; HEIGHT: 25.5pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=34 width=670>Caused by insufficient fuel or oil consumption. It is normal when engine is cold or idling for extended periods. If it persists, there are contributing factors, such as:</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 44.25pt; mso-height-source: userset" height=59><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 503pt; HEIGHT: 44.25pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=59 width=670>Excessive smoke could be caused by air in the fuel, contaminated fuel, loose or plugged injectors, worn or leaking injector o-rings, thermostat stuck open, oil consumption (turbo seal is very common). Also PCM inputs such as MAP or ICP sensors.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

Is it doing it often enough to see what it smells like?

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...lue-smoke.html

 

If it is the turbo, it is covered by the 5 yr / 100k warranty - so are injectors.

<TABLE style="WIDTH: 506pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=675 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 506pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 24685" width=675><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ff99cc; WIDTH: 506pt; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17 width=675>From the manual</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 276pt" height=368><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ff99cc; WIDTH: 506pt; HEIGHT: 276pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl25 height=368 width=675>The 5 yr / 100k warranty coverage (per the manual, page 7) includes the following:
Engine and these components:
cylinder block
heads and all internal parts
intake and exhaust manifolds
timing gear
harmonic balancer
valve covers
oil pan and pump
water pump
fuel system (excluding fuel line and fuel tank)
high pressure lines
gaskets and seals
glow plugs
turbocharger
PCM
electronic driver unit
injectors
injection pressure sensor
high pressure oil regulator
exhaust backpressure regulator and sensor
camshaft position sensor
accelerator switch</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>


Do you have any mods? Have you taken the intake off and looked at the air side inlet of the turbo? Do you see any oil consumption? Do you have any codes?

 

Warranty expired by age.
83,000mi.
Smoke is Blue,Smells of oil. Does this @ only running temp
No codes except EGR related, because of unplug.
BullyDog power pup, 4" stainless no cat no muff,BullyDog cold air intake.
Pulled EGR & cleaned, no change... unplugged for now,worse when operational.
Replaced injector seals,all looked good. Some carbon @tips but didn't appear to have blow by scorching.
noticed oil in the intake side of turbo as well as going into the intercooler.
I have read all responses and thank you all...
I'm still stumped & low on funds...
Please keep your suggestions coming!
Gregg

 

Almost certainly, oil is getting into the exhaust through the turbo. Take off intake tube to the turbo, grab the turbo impeller and pull in and out. It shouldnt move. Wiggle up and down, left to right, it shouldnt move enough to contact the inside of the turbo housing. If this checks out good, you could still have oil entering exhaust from the oil feed and return internal seal. Oil leaks into the turbo, gets blown out the exhaust, and will start to smoke BAD soon. Bismic was right

 

Thank You,
I will look into the turbo...
Although when I had the intake side off everything looked and felt nice.
She seems to sing with a real nice note...
Do you think that its maybe on the intake side, if I have signs of motor oil
in the intercooler?
Gregg

 

If your ccv still goes to the bottom of the intake tube, you will see oil in the cac tubes and intercooler. The turbo is cooled with oil, and quite possibly the seal in the turbo is letting oil past and into the exhaust side of the turbo, and then coming out the exhaust. If you have alot of oil in the intake, yes, the seal can allow oil into there also.

 

Thanks Matty169,
I'll check it out...
It might be awhile though..
gotta rough week ahead.
Gregg

 

Try and perform a compression test on the cylinders to see if you can notice a leak on one. Bad or stuck rings will cause oil burn.

 

Performing a mechanical comp. test on a 6.0 is a pain in the ***. Special fitting required for the glow plug holes for the compression gauge. Remove glow plugs, and you need a DIESEL compression gauge. High pressure gauge. If you have a IDS available, you can perform a relative compression test while the engine is running, or cranking. I doubt that is your problem. You better hope not, anyway