Ok. I know this sounds like an stupid question but:

I have a 1995 F150 4X4 with an M code (Mazda 5 speed) transmission (a.k.a M50D). The truck has 120,000 on it and this is the first time I have had to do anything major to the truck. I am in the process of replacing the clutch slave cylinder as well as the clutch pressure plate and pilot bearing. I have run across a strange road block. I can't get the gear shift lever retaining bolt to come loose.

I have a shop manual (ask me anything - I can try and help by the way) and the only instructions are this:

"Remove the retaining bolt lock nut (done) and remove the retaining bolt from gearshift lever and housing by placing lock nut on opposite end of bolt and tightening to loosen the bolt. Remove the gearshift lever and housing."

I did this and nothing happens - it simply snugs up tight and it won't turn or come out.

Does anyone have experience with this and can you tell me if this is simply a pin (and therefore I need to simply keep turning to pull it out) or do I need to somehow get the threads to turn. I'm afraid of stripping the bolt if I keep wrenching on it.

Help if you can.

Thanks
Mike.

 

Probably stupid questions, but have you squirted penetrating oil on the threads on the backside of the bolt? Maybe try using a washer infront of the nut to help keep the nut turning.

Good luck.

 

I did forget to mention - yes...lots of WD40. I thought about the washer but doesn't seem to be enough threads (the nut barely fits on the opposite side as it is).

I guess the main question is this:

Is it supposed to slide out (pulled by the nut) or is it supposed to turn out - screwing out with the threads? I just never have taken one of these off before so I'm not sure how it's held in place.

If it's supposed to slide out - I guess I should just wrench harder.

Thanks for your reply. Any advice is appreciated.

Mike

 

You remove the nut from the passenger side of the stud.
Place the nut on the driver side of the stud. As you tighten the nut it
will pull the stud towards the driver side about 1/2 inch. Then take a pin punch and punch the stud towards the driver side. The stud/pin will pull out.
The shifter shaft will fall off of the shifter stub.

Here's a pic. showing the nut on the passenger side that you need to remove and place it on the driver side of the stud.



This pic. shows the stud removed.



This pic. shows the shifter stub once the shifter lever is removed.

 

Hello F150XLT,

That would be the information I needed! I will give it a bit more wrench and see if I can pull the stud through. I have been soaking it in WD40 for a day as well. Seems to be fairly tight but I think you answered the critical question - it should slide through.

THANKS!
Mike

 

THAT DID IT! Lost of oil and a 17mm socket pulled it right through. Good to know.

Any sage advice for changing the clutch/pilot bearing/slave cylinder?

Thanks
Mike

 

To disconnect the black plastic hydraulic line at the slave cylinder, you need to press inward on the white plastic bushing. When you do that the bushing spreads out some metal springy fingers inside the slave cylinder which will then allow you to pull the hose off. Note on the end of the hose is a rubber O ring.

To disconnect the hydraulic line at the clutch master cylinder, you press out a roll pin.

To remove the throw out bearing, you rotate it in either direction till you feel a stop. Rotate the throw out bearing a little bit away from the stop and then with a lot of force, force it towards the stop. This may take a couple of tries but once you get the throw out bearing past/over the stop, it will slide off of the input shaft.

It's usually very hard to remove the clutch pilot bearing. I use a punch and knock out the center section of the pilot bearing which allows more clearance to get a slide hammer type puller behind the bearing. Here's a pic. of the back side of the pilot bearing which shows the two notches where the puller arms need to get behind it. In the pic. the center part of the bearing has been knocked out.

Put some thread sealer on the flywheel bolts if you remove the flywheel from the crankshaft.

You should also consider replacing the one piece rear main crankshaft seal while you have the trans. pulled.

 

are there aftermarket short-throw shifters available?

 

Hurst is the only company that made a after market short throw shifter for the Mazda 5 speed.

Kind of notchy shifting. Does take more effort to shift. Has some shifter rattle sometimes in lower gears. Very expensive at over $235.00.

I installed one about 2 years ago. It's a nice looking unit and you'll never have to worry about the factory shifter plastic bushings going bad again.

Here's a video of the shifter.

YouTube - HURST SHIFTER