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I thought this would be a common problem, but could not find it.
When I turn off the ignition and try to rotate the ignition switch/key to the steering column lock position it will not go all the way. It stops just before locking the steering column and I cannot remove the key. This is an automatic with a gearshift on the column. I have to reach up with my left hand to pull the gearshift lever up as if to pass the PARK position. While holding the gearshift like that the ignition switch can be rotated to lock and key removed.
I had the dealership attempt to fix this twice while under warranty with no success. After 10 years I am sick of it and would like to fix it.
I thought this would be a common problem, but could not find it.
When I turn off the ignition and try to rotate the ignition switch/key to the steering column lock position it will not go all the way. It stops just before locking the steering column and I cannot remove the key. This is an automatic with a gearshift on the column. I have to reach up with my left hand to pull the gearshift lever up as if to pass the PARK position. While holding the gearshift like that the ignition switch can be rotated to lock and key removed.
I had the dealership attempt to fix this twice while under warranty with no success. After 10 years I am sick of it and would like to fix it.
Any pointers would be appreciated.
2002 Ford F150 4x4 5.4L automatic on column.
i know sometimes if my truck doesnt lock into park all the way it wont let me turn the key, almost as if it was left in gear and turned off. on an older car that a friend of mine had there was a button on the steering column that had to be pressed in order to remove the key. another thing ive seen is thaat if your in park and you turn the wheel a certain amount it will lock, causing the key to stick and refuse to turn. but those are the only things i can really think of other then something might be wrong with the key or the ignition. ie some part warped or bent or for in the ignition maybe something not sitting where it should be. good luck and hope you get it worked out.
i know sometimes if my truck doesnt lock into park all the way it wont let me turn the key, almost as if it was left in gear and turned off.
Exactly my problem. I have to left the column mounted gearshift up and it will allow the key cylinder to rotate to the lock position and the key will come out.
It seems like an adjustment thing. I just cannot find information on it.
the best advice i could give if the ford people couldnt fix is to just replace the column completely. would probly cost a decent chunk of change but would be worth it in the long run and definitely cheaper then other options.
I really doubt anything is binding. It has been this way since new. If someone could just tell me how this thing works it would help. Gearshift and everything else works just fine. It is just that many times as I go to shut off the truck I cannot rotate the key cylinder all the way to the PARK position.
What exactly blocks it from rotating all the way? Is it a cable adjustment? Something electrical like a small solenoid?
Check the shift cable bracket at the bottom of the columb for loose bolts. They can work loose and cause too much slack in the cable to let it go into park at the lever. Sometimes one will come completely out. Also check for worn out shift tube bushings. If the tube doesnt rotate completely to park it will block the security tab from engaging the tube allowing the lock cylinder to turn the switch to the lock position.
If these (#1 in image) are the bolts you are speaking of I have already checked mine and they are tight.
If the tube doesnt rotate completely to park it will block the security tab from engaging the tube allowing the lock cylinder to turn the switch to the lock position
I think you are on the right track. First, what is the "shift tube". Is it part of the steering column or key cylinder or ? .
Can the cable be adjusted? It seems like it just needs to rotate a hair futher.
The shift tube is what those bolts and bracket attach to. There is two black nylon/plastic bushings wrapped around that tube where the two mounting tabs hold that part to the columb. They often will wear out and cause a lot of slop in that tube. Also that tube has been known to crack over time or even break in half. There is no adjustment of the cable but it can stretch over time and need replacement. There is an adjustment for the length of the shift stroke at the transmission but I have never seen that prevent the shifter from going into park from normal wear. It might need adjustment over time to compensate for internal trans wear or trans range sensor adjustment but that more indicates worn components rather than cable issues.
You can buy a whole new shift tube, plunger inside the shift tube, and bushings very reasonable. Maybe 50 bucks or so. Or just the bushings for about 6 bucks each.
You have to remove the shift tube to install the bushings anyway. You just have to remove things and inspect, evaluate.