Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Newer Light Duty Trucks > Expedition & Navigator
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


Expedition & Navigator 1997 - 2002 and 2003 - 2006 Ford Expedition and Lincoln Navigator SPONSORED BY:

Welcome to Ford-Trucks Forums!
Welcome to Ford-Trucks.com.

You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Ford-Trucks Forums community today!





 
Reply
 
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 02-27-2009, 12:25 PM
bchristal bchristal is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 12
bchristal is starting off with a positive reputation.
Rear AC Hissing

Hello,

My 06 EB Expedition 46,000, started making a hissing sound in the rear passenger area. I opened the rear hatch and the noise is coming from the AC hoses behind the trim panel on the right rear of the car. I have read in the forums that my freon is probably low.

So I removed the caps on the hi and low connectors. When I removed the hi side it made a hissing, spitting noise. It's bubbling yellow oil inside of the hi side fitting, so the valve is leaking on the hi side.
  1. What should I replace?
  2. What should my pressures be? I have gauges.
  3. I need a part for my gauges, maybe you guys can help. My gauges won't connect to 134a cans. I think all the hoses are for r-12, but it has adapters to go from r-12 to 134a on the car. The yellow hose in the middle has an r-12 connection on it - without any thing to pierce the can. So I need to go from a 134a can to r-12. What's the best solution?

Thanks!

Brian
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 02-27-2009, 12:38 PM
bchristal bchristal is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 12
bchristal is starting off with a positive reputation.
Current pressures:

Hi: 125 psi
Low: +20 psi

AC is not blowing cold.

Brian
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 02-27-2009, 01:52 PM
alloro alloro is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: 0,0,1
Posts: 9,292
alloro is a name known to allalloro is a name known to allalloro is a name known to allalloro is a name known to allalloro is a name known to allalloro is a name known to all
For starters you have fix the leaking schrader valve on the high side. It might just need tightening or you might have to unscrew the valve and replace the o-ring. Before you unscrew it, you will need to drain the system.

Pressure should be more like 250 high and 40 low for proper cooling.

Does your yellow hose have the r-12 valve built onto it or is it just a female connector that screws onto an r-12 valve?
__________________
To thank someone, click the left red "Add to Reputation" button
right of the word "permalink" top right of the poster's message.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 02-27-2009, 02:18 PM
alloro alloro is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: 0,0,1
Posts: 9,292
alloro is a name known to allalloro is a name known to allalloro is a name known to allalloro is a name known to allalloro is a name known to allalloro is a name known to all
You can get the conversion kit for $40
R-12 To R-134a Gauge Adapters

Or you can just get a new set of gauges for $50
Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
__________________
To thank someone, click the left red "Add to Reputation" button
right of the word "permalink" top right of the poster's message.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 02-27-2009, 02:57 PM
bchristal bchristal is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 12
bchristal is starting off with a positive reputation.
Those are my gauges. They won't screw on to a can of 134a. They fit the car fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by alloro View Post
You can get the conversion kit for $40
R-12 To R-134a Gauge Adapters

Or you can just get a new set of gauges for $50
Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 02-27-2009, 03:08 PM
bchristal bchristal is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 12
bchristal is starting off with a positive reputation.
Here's the hose that comes with the harbor freight gauges. It won't screw on to the 134a cans you get at Walmart.

Click the image to open in full size.


[QUOTE=alloro;7198298]You can get the conversion kit for $40
R-12 To R-134a Gauge Adapters
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 02-27-2009, 04:05 PM
alloro alloro is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: 0,0,1
Posts: 9,292
alloro is a name known to allalloro is a name known to allalloro is a name known to allalloro is a name known to allalloro is a name known to allalloro is a name known to all
It's not supposed to screw onto the can. You're supposed to screw a valve onto the can, then the hose connects to the valve.

You can buy this valve in probably any auto parts store for about $8. It will look something like the one here, although the handle might be different on some.
Mastercool - R-134a Can Tap Valve - Charging - MSC85510
__________________
To thank someone, click the left red "Add to Reputation" button
right of the word "permalink" top right of the poster's message.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 02-27-2009, 05:41 PM
bchristal bchristal is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 12
bchristal is starting off with a positive reputation.
Yes! That is exactly what I've been looking for. I went to a NAPA and Autozone, neither had that.

Thanks

Brian
Quote:
Originally Posted by alloro View Post
It's not supposed to screw onto the can. You're supposed to screw a valve onto the can, then the hose connects to the valve.

You can buy this valve in probably any auto parts store for about $8. It will look something like the one here, although the handle might be different on some.
Mastercool - R-134a Can Tap Valve - Charging - MSC85510
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 02-27-2009, 07:55 PM
alloro alloro is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: 0,0,1
Posts: 9,292
alloro is a name known to allalloro is a name known to allalloro is a name known to allalloro is a name known to allalloro is a name known to allalloro is a name known to all
Quote:
Originally Posted by bchristal View Post
Yes! That is exactly what I've been looking for. I went to a NAPA and Autozone, neither had that.
Really? That's odd I've seen the valves in Autozone many times. Maybe because it's not summer and the demand is low they take them off the shelves. Did you ask them if they had them in the back? One time when I needed some R-134a in the winter, they had none out on display. I asked and I was told they keep it in the back in the winter because it's not a big seller that time of year.

Do you have an Advance auto parts store near you? They have this one for $7.
While we find your parts, please enter your ZIP Code at PartsAmerica.com
__________________
To thank someone, click the left red "Add to Reputation" button
right of the word "permalink" top right of the poster's message.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 02-27-2009, 11:45 PM
lsrx101 lsrx101 is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Lorain County, Ohio
Posts: 1,775
lsrx101 has a very good reputation on FTE.lsrx101 has a very good reputation on FTE.lsrx101 has a very good reputation on FTE.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bchristal View Post
Current pressures:

Hi: 125 psi
Low: +20 psi

AC is not blowing cold.

Brian
You might want to check the accuracy of your low side gauge. The Low Pressure Cycling Switch should cycle the compressor off at 25-30psi. It's also possible that the switch has failed. The low side shouldn't be that low with the compressor running.
That 125psi on the high side may be normal, depending on the ambient temperature. That's about right for 50 degrees, ballpark for the high side is 2.5 times the ambient temp.

Don't add refrigerant until you know for sure it's low!! If it is low on refrigerant, you really should find and repair the leak. If it's not actually low, you risk overcharging the system and damaging the compressor when the temps approach summer levels.

The High side port most likely has a rubber ball type valve in it and it's not uncommon for them to leak. If the service cap was installed properly, that is NOT the source of the leak. The cap is actually the primary seal for the port, as silly as that may sound. The port "can" be replaced but the system must be recovered first. The port is screwed into a fitting on the line.

One last thing, the yellow hose in your pic is an R12/R22 hose. It will not attach to an R134a can tap, the connection is a different size. You can buy an adapter kit as mentioned, but they made all of the hoses and fittings different for a reason. Cross contamination between the 2 refrigerants and their respective oils is a bad thing! You really should source a proper R134a gauge set.
__________________
Sometime I wish I didn't know now
The things I didn't know then.
Give me something to believe in!
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 02-28-2009, 08:20 AM
bchristal bchristal is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 12
bchristal is starting off with a positive reputation.
Thanks LSRX

Here's a picture of the hi side valve. It has a slow leak around the edge.
Click the image to open in full size.
The line below was covered in oily dirt that leaked past the service cap. It had been leaking for a while. But I think it's a very slow leak.

You bring up good points about pressure and air temperature.

Yesterday
Air Temperature 94F
I added two cans of 134a.
Low side 45 psi
High 200 psi
The AC was blowing cool, not ice cold.

This morning
Air Temperature 43F
Low 25 psi
Hi 90 psi
I can't tell if it blowing cold because the inside of the car is 43F.

So I thought all the freon leaked out, but maybe it's just the air temperature?

Also, when I was driving the car last night I kept smelling a sulphery smell, kind of like an oil well or a fart. Could that be an interior AC leak?

Thanks!





Quote:
Originally Posted by lsrx101 View Post
You might want to check the accuracy of your low side gauge. The Low Pressure Cycling Switch should cycle the compressor off at 25-30psi. It's also possible that the switch has failed. The low side shouldn't be that low with the compressor running.
That 125psi on the high side may be normal, depending on the ambient temperature. That's about right for 50 degrees, ballpark for the high side is 2.5 times the ambient temp.

Don't add refrigerant until you know for sure it's low!! If it is low on refrigerant, you really should find and repair the leak. If it's not actually low, you risk overcharging the system and damaging the compressor when the temps approach summer levels.

The High side port most likely has a rubber ball type valve in it and it's not uncommon for them to leak. If the service cap was installed properly, that is NOT the source of the leak. The cap is actually the primary seal for the port, as silly as that may sound. The port "can" be replaced but the system must be recovered first. The port is screwed into a fitting on the line.

One last thing, the yellow hose in your pic is an R12/R22 hose. It will not attach to an R134a can tap, the connection is a different size. You can buy an adapter kit as mentioned, but they made all of the hoses and fittings different for a reason. Cross contamination between the 2 refrigerants and their respective oils is a bad thing! You really should source a proper R134a gauge set.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 02-28-2009, 01:05 PM
lsrx101 lsrx101 is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Lorain County, Ohio
Posts: 1,775
lsrx101 has a very good reputation on FTE.lsrx101 has a very good reputation on FTE.lsrx101 has a very good reputation on FTE.
Ok. At those ambient temps you were certainly low on refrigerant. (It's 20 degrees here) The oily dirt around the port is a dead giveaway of a leak, so make sure the rubber seal is in the service cap and in good shape. It shouldn't leak past the cap even if the valve inside leaks a bit.
That's a schrader valve in there, I guess Ford finally gave up trying to save .03 on the cost by using the rubber valves.

Ideally, you would have the system recovered, evacuated and then charged by weight of the refrigerant. That's the only way to actually get the correct charge.
You can get close, especially at your rather high ambient temps, by following this procedure:
-Engine at 1500 RPM steady.
-Max AC, High Blower, doors open.
-Charge 1-2 ounces at a time while measuring the temperature of the evaporator inlet and outlet lines where they enter the firewall/plemum.
-Allow 2 minutes between refrigerant "shots" for the system to stabilize.
-When the temp of the inlet and outlet are the same, you are fully charged.
-If the outlet is slightly warmer but adding a "shot" doesn't effect the temperature, you have reached max charge. Close the doors for a few minutes and recheck.
-If the outlet of the evaporator gets colder than the inlet, you are overcharged and risk getting liquid refrigerant into the compressor.
-You should see roughly 2.5 times the ambient temperature for the high side pressure and the low side will be within 2-4 degrees of the vent outlet temperature.

Hope this helps.

BTW. If you check the static pressure (system off, cold engine) you will notice that the pressure is within a few degrees of the ambient temperature. That a good rough indicator of system charge.
__________________
Sometime I wish I didn't know now
The things I didn't know then.
Give me something to believe in!
Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2009, 01:05 PM
 
 
 
Reply

Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Newer Light Duty Trucks > Expedition & Navigator

Tags
05, 134a, ac, adapters, coming, condenser, connectors, expedition, f150, ford, gauge, hiss, hissing, noise, rear, working

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
'95 Ranger/B3000 condenser fit my '94 B3000? mrau92me Ranger & B-Series 0 06-12-2013 04:30 PM
Suggestions for A/C Refit? kc5hwb 1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 4 11-03-2011 01:54 PM
A/C trials and tribulations eatont9999 Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) 78 08-05-2011 10:17 PM
AC recharge -> Hissing from low side port donnyglaze 1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel 9 06-07-2010 06:13 AM
Harbor Freight Vacuum Pump fitting that will fit R134A manifold gauge set BigNish 1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 5 08-20-2002 02:23 PM



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:31 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7 AC1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.

vbulletin Admin Backup