Hi there I have yet another problem with my 1973 F250, as the title says my points keep burning out. I have been told I need a "ballast resistor" to tone down the voltage into the coil and prevent the points from burning out. If I put in the ballast resistor would this stop the problem I have with my coil getting all puffy and bulgy? and is it possible for these to explode? Would it be better to just to convert the system to electronic ignition to eliminate the points, condenser etc. Finally can someone send me a picture of what a ballast resistor looks like. Because my dad says there's a ceramic block that goes on the firewall (apparently that's what a ballast resistor is) but I think that's for 72 and older.

 

Either find a 75 and up F100/F150 and grab the distributor and ignition harness and the ignition module or buy a new electronic distributor(Not HEI style) Buy Ford Style with Coil separate from the cap.

Pretty easy job to do or buy an MSD box and distributor they come complete with wiring diagrams.

Throw the points away they are and will be nothing but problems.

Rick.

 

The ballast resistor is part of the factory wiring harness. If you're burning up points, you need to replace the condensor, and make sure the point gap is set correctly. You should be using a feeler gauge to do this. A lot of people use a matchbook cover for this which won't work.

 

Or use a dwell meter if you have access to one. This is the most accurate way to set the points

 

That's a great idea; a dwell meter would be even better.

 

I agree with red ford. Throw them points as far away from you as you can and convert it to elec. ignition. MSD is an excellent choice but the ford dist. and ignition box will work too.

 

I don't think I would buy a MSD distributer again.I really like the one I have with Ford electronic dist and MSD -6A box lots cheaper too

 

I went with the MSD streetfire box, another option is you could keep your distributor and just go with an ignitor instead of points.

No more points no more problems.

Rick.

 

Can anybody fill me in on the details of what and where?

 

Crane Cams makes an electronic conversion kit for about $60, (NAPA part # 735-4820). I put one in my truck a few years ago. It replaces your points using the original plate and wiring. As I remember it took about 20 minutes to put in. I put Cranes high voltage coil (335-3134) in at the same time. It made a surprising difference in performance.

 

That's good info and just another option to better these fine trucks.

 

There are plenty of other companies out there that make the conversion kits, Accel, Mallory, MSD, Petronix etc. I always try and speak from experience, the Crane unit works well for me.

 

Using a pertronix with a 67- 390. Love it.

 

As easy as it would seem to go throwing shiny new electronic parts at your problem, in the end you'll likely find a lot of frustration when they get fried from your problem.

You stated a swelling coil? How many volts do you have going into the negative post of the coil? Should be no more than 9 volts DC.

As frustrating as points can sometimes be, they are pretty robust.

Josh

 

The Mopars use an externally resisted coil which needed the ceramic ballast resistor (NAPA ICR23), which is usually mounted on the firewall or inner fender. If I remember right, Ford up to 74 also used an external resistor in the form of a resistance wire. Meaning the wire between the ignition and the coil was the ballast, as opposed to the ceramic one.

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong....