points keep burning out
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New User
Joined: Dec 2008
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From: Sherwood
points keep burning out
Hi there I have yet another problem with my 1973 F250, as the title says my points keep burning out. I have been told I need a "ballast resistor" to tone down the voltage into the coil and prevent the points from burning out. If I put in the ballast resistor would this stop the problem I have with my coil getting all puffy and bulgy? and is it possible for these to explode? Would it be better to just to convert the system to electronic ignition to eliminate the points, condenser etc. Finally can someone send me a picture of what a ballast resistor looks like. Because my dad says there's a ceramic block that goes on the firewall (apparently that's what a ballast resistor is) but I think that's for 72 and older.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Ontario
Go electronic.
Hi there I have yet another problem with my 1973 F250, as the title says my points keep burning out. I have been told I need a "ballast resistor" to tone down the voltage into the coil and prevent the points from burning out. If I put in the ballast resistor would this stop the problem I have with my coil getting all puffy and bulgy? and is it possible for these to explode? Would it be better to just to convert the system to electronic ignition to eliminate the points, condenser etc. Finally can someone send me a picture of what a ballast resistor looks like. Because my dad says there's a ceramic block that goes on the firewall (apparently that's what a ballast resistor is) but I think that's for 72 and older.
Either find a 75 and up F100/F150 and grab the distributor and ignition harness and the ignition module or buy a new electronic distributor(Not HEI style) Buy Ford Style with Coil separate from the cap.
Pretty easy job to do or buy an MSD box and distributor they come complete with wiring diagrams.
Throw the points away they are and will be nothing but problems.
Rick.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
The ballast resistor is part of the factory wiring harness. If you're burning up points, you need to replace the condensor, and make sure the point gap is set correctly. You should be using a feeler gauge to do this. A lot of people use a matchbook cover for this which won't work.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 7,191
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From: Blairsville,Ga
I don't think I would buy a MSD distributer again.I really like the one I have with Ford electronic dist and MSD -6A box lots cheaper too
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Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Ontario
I went the same way except....
No more points no more problems.
Rick.
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Elder User
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73 distributor and ignitor info please.
Can anybody fill me in on the details of what and where?
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Latrobe, PA
Crane Cams makes an electronic conversion kit for about $60, (NAPA part # 735-4820). I put one in my truck a few years ago. It replaces your points using the original plate and wiring. As I remember it took about 20 minutes to put in. I put Cranes high voltage coil (335-3134) in at the same time. It made a surprising difference in performance.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,587
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From: Eagle River, AK
Crane Cams makes an electronic conversion kit for about $60, (NAPA part # 735-4820). I put one in my truck a few years ago. It replaces your points using the original plate and wiring. As I remember it took about 20 minutes to put in. I put Cranes high voltage coil (335-3134) in at the same time. It made a surprising difference in performance.
Certified Thread Hijacker
Joined: Aug 2001
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As easy as it would seem to go throwing shiny new electronic parts at your problem, in the end you'll likely find a lot of frustration when they get fried from your problem.
You stated a swelling coil? How many volts do you have going into the negative post of the coil? Should be no more than 9 volts DC.
As frustrating as points can sometimes be, they are pretty robust.
Josh
You stated a swelling coil? How many volts do you have going into the negative post of the coil? Should be no more than 9 volts DC.
As frustrating as points can sometimes be, they are pretty robust.
Josh
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 36
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From: Latrobe, PA
The Mopars use an externally resisted coil which needed the ceramic ballast resistor (NAPA ICR23), which is usually mounted on the firewall or inner fender. If I remember right, Ford up to 74 also used an external resistor in the form of a resistance wire. Meaning the wire between the ignition and the coil was the ballast, as opposed to the ceramic one.
Somebody correct me if I'm wrong....
Somebody correct me if I'm wrong....