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Front Rotors / Pads - OEM?

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Old 11-22-2008, 09:00 PM
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Front Rotors / Pads - OEM?

Slight "pulsing" in the pedal...

1995 Crew-Cab Dually
Banks PowerPak
76,000mi.
Hauling a 45' gooseneck - 18,000lbs

May be able to turn my current stock rotors..
Any advise on pad compound?
 
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Old 11-22-2008, 09:05 PM
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I hear the ceramics are good at displacing heat and are quiet. Full metallic wear the rotor too fast, semi metallic are probably stock.
Never had much luck turning rotors more than once though, The thinner they get the faster they warp, I guess it is because of the the reduced mass.

Be sure to check your rears drums for out of round condition, it will cause a pulsing pedal also. Just apply the parking brake while going under 20 and you will feel it if they are out of round. hope this helps!
 
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Old 11-22-2008, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by rockitdog
I hear the ceramics are good at displacing heat and are quiet. Full metallic wear the rotor too fast, semi metallic are probably stock.
Never had much luck turning rotors more than once though, The thinner they get the faster they warp, I guess it is because of the the reduced mass.

Be sure to check your rears drums for out of round condition, it will cause a pulsing pedal also. Just apply the parking brake while going under 20 and you will feel it if they are out of round. hope this helps!

The parking brake test..Big help...thanks!
 
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Old 11-23-2008, 05:16 AM
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You might want to re-think using the p-brake, if you don't use them all the time or it's been a while since you used them.....then don't do it. The cables might hangup keeping the rear brakes applied...permanently. You'll need to replace the entire rear brakes along with the cables.
 
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Old 11-23-2008, 05:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Cuda_jim
You might want to re-think using the p-brake, if you don't use them all the time or it's been a while since you used them.....then don't do it. The cables might hangup keeping the rear brakes applied...permanently. You'll need to replace the entire rear brakes along with the cables.
Great point Sir... This gets driven rarely...
 
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Old 11-23-2008, 08:42 AM
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i have good luck with the ford superduty pads, and if you prefer something else then performance friction has good pads but you have to be very careful when snubbing them in
 
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Old 11-23-2008, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by c00nhunterjoe
i have good luck with the ford superduty pads, and if you prefer something else then performance friction has good pads but you have to be very careful when snubbing them in
Then OEM S/D pads it is....!
 
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Old 11-23-2008, 08:52 AM
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they were 5 bucks more than std oem the last time i got them but its been quite a while...... they used to run 55 bucks,
 
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Old 11-23-2008, 09:02 AM
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Very good.... Truck will be in the shop for a topside fuel leak... I'm guessing HP o-ring... Full brake service.... already purchased rear shoes.. (AutoZone).
with BG Brake Flush.
 
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Old 11-23-2008, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by c00nhunterjoe
they were 5 bucks more than std oem the last time i got them but its been quite a while...... they used to run 55 bucks,
Any venders on this forum?
 
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Old 11-23-2008, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Cuda_jim
You might want to re-think using the p-brake, if you don't use them all the time or it's been a while since you used them.....then don't do it. The cables might hangup keeping the rear brakes applied...permanently. You'll need to replace the entire rear brakes along with the cables.
If your park brake system is in bad shape then now is the time to fix it while it is in the shop, no point in having a park brake if it does not work! after all, It is your last defense if you pop a brake line.

I guess I should have been more specific, Hold the release lever while rolling and slowly apply the brake, If your drums are out of round you will feel a rocking motion while rolling. This should not cause your park brake to lock up. If you are replacing the brake shoes, might as well get the drums turned while they are off. Just my 2 cents.
 
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Old 11-23-2008, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by rockitdog
If your park brake system is in bad shape then now is the time to fix it while it is in the shop, no point in having a park brake if it does not work! after all, It is your last defense if you pop a brake line.

I guess I should have been more specific, Hold the release lever while rolling and slowly apply the brake, If your drums are out of round you will feel a rocking motion while rolling. This should not cause your park brake to lock up. If you are replacing the brake shoes, might as well get the drums turned while they are off. Just my 2 cents.
All points are well taken... Gents..
and are already included in my referenced.. "Full Brake Service"
 
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Old 11-23-2008, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Millwoodva
Very good.... Truck will be in the shop for a topside fuel leak... I'm guessing HP o-ring... Full brake service.... already purchased rear shoes.. (AutoZone).
with BG Brake Flush.
Fuel leak issue....
truck runs fine... fuel "puddles" in the rear manifold pockets.

Any thoughts..?
 
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Old 11-23-2008, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by rockitdog
If your park brake system is in bad shape then now is the time to fix it while it is in the shop, no point in having a park brake if it does not work! after all, It is your last defense if you pop a brake line.
Good point, but I know mine will work (once) if the need arises , but it will need new cables after that happens. I've never used them...it's dead flat around here and i don't have a stick shift...the road salt is really tough on the cables even if you do use it. I probably replace 5-10 sets of p-brake cables a year in the shop cuz they're stuck.
 
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Old 11-23-2008, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Millwoodva
Fuel leak issue....
truck runs fine... fuel "puddles" in the rear manifold pockets.

Any thoughts..?
It can be leaking from quite a few places but it's Probably a fuel pump. You'll need to clean up the valley really good. Start it up and see where it's coming from.
 


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