Hi, guys. I'm new to the forum - just bought a 2003 F350 Lariat 6.0 - showroom stock - and I love it. Got it to haul my Kawasaki Mule and two Honda ATV's, and it does haul! But the driver's door rattles, and I can't figure out how to tighten it up. The striker plate for the door latch (on the door post) doesn't adjust, as far as I can tell. I've loosened it up to slide it inward, but it won't move at all. So how do you tighten the door up if the striker doesn't adjust??? And no, the door latch doesn't move either. I'd appreciate some enlightenment - I hate rattles.

 

Check to see if any of the door stops(rubbers) or seals are missing or worn out. They take up the slack.

 

My '03 has done this for a long time. I don't know what to do, as you noted you cannot adjust the striker or latch. I did try some tailgate seal but it did not work. I also had the stealership take the door panel off under warranty (at least they told me they did) and they did not find anything loose. I am offroad a lot so it is a pisser of a problem. I am going to a body shop that is honest and see if they have any ideas.

 

it is a common problem, pretty sure that I saw something in the 7.3 forum where guys were riveting something inside the door and it would quit. If you watch your door when it happens you can see the panel moving quite a bit when it rattles.

 

my 03 250 driver side has rattled since i got it, and i cant fix it either, it even started taking the paint off above the a -post under the weather stripping.

 

The extended cab trucks have a problem where the spot weld at the very bottom of the extended cab doors breaks loose, and then the whole outer skin can move, which includes the catch for the front door, and then it rattles. You can try to weld it back, or drill a hole at the bottom near the spot weld and put in a screw or a rivet to hold the door sheet metal panels together.

Not sure about you guys with Crew Cabs.

 

You can buy some 3/8" od latex surgical tubing and slide it inside the hollow weather strip against which each door seals. This will tighten up the fit and latex tubing will not harden, take a "set," or crack over time. Remove the weatherstrip, lube the tubing up with soapy water, thread it through, and replace the weather strip. I found that when I replaced the useless stock shocks, my rattle problem lessened and I never had to do this fix.

 

There was a thread that said the door striker can be moved by loosening it and hitting it with a mallet. Evidently, the nuts on the inside of the pillar are taped in with double sided tape and can be shifted with a little force.

 

Thanks for all the response. All great ideas! After more study of the "adjustable" striker plate, it does appear that it is supposed to move for adjustment, and AllData even states it. But apparently Ford had a better idea, and somehow attached the fastener plate inside the door post so it is almost impossible to move. Normally, on most vehicles, these things are "trapped" in a sort of cage that allows them to move about freely within 3/4" or so for adjustment. Anyway, I used a combination of your suggestions and the rattle has stopped. Thanks again!

 

Why not just replace the strike plate on the door post? Is there a nut captured inside the post?

I wrapped mine with some electrical tape, and it seems better. I would probably prefer a long term solution vs. this bandaid.