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Old 10-11-2008, 07:41 PM
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Crank pulley removal

Holy crap that bad boy is tight... Any tips on removing the crank pulley bolt would be great. Is it possible it's a left thread? The engine is a 300 L6. I have no impact wrench but i could possibly get one on loan, however i think it should be possible to loosen with a wrench.

Another question: Is it bad to wedge a wood block between the block and the crank to be able to torque the bolt?
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Old 10-11-2008, 08:22 PM
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Might be able to double wrench it. Take the box end of your wrench and put it on the bolt then take a bigger wrench and hook the box end of it over the open end of the first wrench. Or get a breaker bar. Usually use an impact though.
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Old 10-11-2008, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duke78 View Post
Another question: Is it bad to wedge a wood block between the block and the crank to be able to torque the bolt?
Should be fine, if you can fit it. Just the other day I used a huge screwdriver in front of the connecting rods and away from the inside of the cylinder wall. In retrospect I should have wrapped in a rag, and used an "impact wrench" in the form of beating the snot out of a 1/2" breaker bar with a mini sledge. After 17 years of MA road salt, nothing less would work.

I also read about threading bolts through the pulley and wedging them against the timing cover. But all that got me was a new timing cover after breaking the webbing on it, and the ill temperament that led to the above measure. Good luck.
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Old 10-12-2008, 07:09 AM
srercrcr srercrcr is offline
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You really should have a basic manual like a Haynes.
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Old 10-12-2008, 09:57 AM
c4barnes c4barnes is offline
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You really should have a basic manual like a Haynes.
Haynes suggested a chain wrench, which in my case was a knife at a gunfight, but as a general point, yes indeed.
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Old 10-12-2008, 10:59 AM
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I have a chilton, but they don't get into detail regarding the crank pulley removal or installation for that matter...
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Old 10-12-2008, 12:15 PM
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i have a big metal bar that fits over my socket wrenches whenever i need the extra leverage to break loose a rusty bolt. Alot of the time my impact wont break stuff loose all by itself. When that happens i just break it loose with my 4 foot lever arm wrench and then finish it off with the impact.
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Old 10-12-2008, 12:18 PM
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I have a 2 foot breaker bar that has yet to be defeated. Whether it actually loosens something or simply shears it off, it has never failed to get something to move.
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Old 10-12-2008, 05:22 PM
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yeah the bar i slip over my socket wrench is the same. either its coming off the easy way or its coming off the hard way lol. If its a specialty bolt though i try to take it easy and not let it get too hot and keep it well lubed. For stupid **** though, or if im angry, *snap*!
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Old 10-12-2008, 07:23 PM
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If you have the drive plate or flywheel on the crank I'd use a big screwdriver in the flywheel teeth to hold the crank. As far as a block of wood between the lower end of a connecting rod and the block, or even the journal and the block I just don't think you and a two or even three foot bar will hurt anything, unless your the lad I saw carry 5- 98 lb bags of cement. If thats the case I don't know and sure don't want to give you any bad advice. kotzy
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Old 10-13-2008, 05:56 PM
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Finally got the bolt. 4ft pipe on my 1/2" drive rachet, the bolt was a Nancy girl after that.

Anyway, i was pretty happy about it all, until i went to remove the pulley, that thing must be press fit on there also. Do i need a puller for this thing and since the pulley has a rubber ring between it and the hub i'm guessing a hook style puller will not work but rather the bolt on type i can attach to the threaded holes on the hub?

Do any of you know the bolt hole center spacing?
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Old 10-13-2008, 05:56 PM
 
 
 
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