Hey all,

I am trying to get more room for the new downpipe and am considering moving the cab back a bit. How easy is this to do? Just a few bolts? Any how-to's out there? Is a half-inch a reasonable expectation? What do I have to watch for? The bed, I would guess, but what else should I consider?

Thanks in advance!

DS
--
97 F350PS CC 5sp 4x4 w/4" MBRP and 3"d/p Superchip

 

Are you saying you want to move the cab back then remount there?????or just moving back then putting back in place after install
You absolutely do not have to do that to put in the down pipe.

Either way you are looking taking the whole front of the truck off....front fenders are connected to your cab

 

Should be do able ...

6 body bolts .. 2 on the rad support , 2 near the bottom of the front fenders ,,,2 at the rear of the cab...

make sure the washers don't rub on the brackets...

 

Sounds like he should just bump out some room for the downpipe to me. =\

 

To install a down pipe, you do not have to move the cab back. Once the old down pipe is removed (via sawzall), cut the seam that sticks out from the front of the firewall in several places (cut only the seam, not into the firewall), then with a block of wood and a portapower (easiest way) or small scissor jack or small hydralic jack (and I do mean small) or a BFH (Big Freaking Hammer) bend the seam flat against the firewall. Test fit the new down pipe and if need (usaully not) bend the firewall back a little until the down pipe has clearance. Install new down pipe. Done. Cab stays in place.

 

deadsenator is the user that posted this ... https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...nsmission.html

He is the one with the standard transmission where the down pipe won't quite fit. Are you sure you bent the correct area on that firewall ?? Not directly above the downpipe but about 35 degrees to the left of the downpipe as viewed from the front of the truck.

 

Thanks for the suggestions, guys. When I got the d/p in, I thought I had enough room, but what happens is that when I am under braking, the cab seems to lean into the pipe and take on noise/vibration. When the cab settles back, it goes away.

I smashed quite a bit of the firewall back and I don't think there is more to get from it. I had thought that moving the cab back a smidge would help resolve this issue. Am I on the wrong track?

DS

 

In that thread it sounds like it is in....must have some rubbing going on....I went through that with the auto.....just needed to pound on the fire wall some more.

 

I had that going on with right hand turns....for as much of a pain as the DP is I think it will still be easier to pound the firewall a bit more

 

Just a thought, but you may just need new cab bushings. Check to see if yours are mashed flat. Poly ones flex the least i believe.

 

Great idea! Six at the major bolt points? ( (EDIT): The bed too, right? ) Any brand stick out as the ones to have? Do new ones raise the body any? I also really don't want to make the ride stiffer, either.

DS

 

They do make a 1 inch body lift to where you would replace all the bushings and get a set for the bed also.
As for just replacement go with stock bushings.

 

I recently installed a set of cab mounts (energy suspension) or something like that for a customer on a '79 F250 I can only say my truck will never have after market polyurethane cab mounts. I delivered the truck back to the customer, a 50 mile trip and I thought I would need kidney, back and a few other surgeries from the nasty rough ride. I could feel every piece of gravel on the road and every crack in the road! it was insanely rough.
if you need cab mounts get oem.

 

i would say new cab mounts and a 1 inch body lift would give you plenty of room for even a 4 inch dp, i havent done my downpipe yet but. i would immagin between new body mounts and a 1 inch body lift you would probably gain 1.5 inches of clearance.