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  #1  
Old 05-27-2008, 05:23 PM
econoshorty econoshorty is offline
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Won't start after running out of gas

I ran out of gas after putting some in now I can't get it to start. Any ideas before I start tearing it apart? Thanks 89 fi
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Old 05-27-2008, 05:39 PM
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Some pumps can and do die once ran while "dry" or from being ran dry to many times, when you turn the key to "run" do you hear the pump kick in for a few seconds then stop?
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Old 05-28-2008, 01:58 AM
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turn the key on, leave for a few seconds, turn off. repeat four times. then try to start.

if no go, put a fuel pressure tester on the engine or drop the filter and see if you get anything through the line. then remove the filter entirely and see if you get anything through the line.
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Old 05-28-2008, 06:16 AM
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Some in-tank pumps are "Run Dry Protected" with a fuse to prevent explosion, since the fuel itself cools the pump. Some just have an extra signal from the tank float to the computer, so the computer may have to be reset by disconnecting the battery negative for a few minutes.

I have a non-ford buggy right now that looks like the pump just plain died - not unusual.

Check also to make sure the inertial switch has not tripped.
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Old 05-29-2008, 09:47 AM
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Where is the inertial switch located on the Bronco II? I've got a regular bronco, but am having the same problem on my wife's Bronco II. She ran it out of gas and now it won't start. I hear the pump on the rail start, but no go. I'm getting spark...
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Old 05-29-2008, 02:36 PM
TJDukit TJDukit is offline
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The inertia switch is located under the passenger side dash a couple inches to the left of the computer you might have to pull the carpet back to get to it I'm not sure. Just push the red button back in if it is popped out and if it isn't popped out you can unplug and hot wire the two wires together to see if that fixes it if that does then the inertia switch could be bad.
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Old 05-29-2008, 04:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marty86 View Post
Where is the inertial switch located on the Bronco II? I've got a regular bronco, but am having the same problem on my wife's Bronco II. She ran it out of gas and now it won't start. I hear the pump on the rail start, but no go. I'm getting spark...
The circuit is wired from the pump relay thru the inertia switch & to the 2 pumps.

Since the rail pump is running, the problem is not the inertia switch.

If you cant hear the tank pump,try giving the tank a good whack with your hand & see what it does. This little trick has gotten me back home a couple of times.
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Old 05-29-2008, 04:45 PM
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Try purging the air from the injector rail via the schrader valve. Looks just like a tire valve up on the injector rail. Be careful you don't get gas flying all over you.
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Old 05-29-2008, 06:40 PM
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You can also test the pressure at that same fitting with a common tire pressure guage.

Use a cheap 99 cent one - it may ruin the guage so you want to do this with a "throw away"...
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Old 05-30-2008, 12:35 AM
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Check them relays man, a lot of cranking can burn them out. Also check your Ign switch on the column, they seperate sometimes.
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Old 05-30-2008, 08:19 PM
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Fuel pump relays can be tested by baring the end of a wire or two, inserting them into the relay socket, pushing the relay in, and reading the wires for voltage to ground.

You can jump 12 volts to the relay coil to see if it switches.

You can also hotwire the output contact this way, to see if the pump is good or bad.

I tell you this so you can isolate a bad component - NOT to "BANDAID" the situation.

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Old 06-03-2008, 02:59 PM
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I figured it out. It was the Ignition Control Module on the distributor. My brother in law said his went out on one of the first really hot days of the summer, which was the day the Bronco ran out of gas, incidently. Replaced it and she fired up immediately. I just need to re-time the truck after accidently wiping off one of my marks (the engine is really dirty(. Thanks all.
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Old 06-03-2008, 03:40 PM
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Glad you got it figured out - thanks for posting the result.
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Old 06-03-2008, 08:28 PM
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Glad you got it figured out - thanks for posting the result.
No problem. I've just now got to figure out if I've got the timing off a tooth. It shows according to the timing mark I'm on 10* BTDC, but it lacks power after about 1500-1800rpm. So I've just got to wait until it cools down to pull the distributor and put it back correctly.
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Old 06-03-2008, 09:34 PM
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Check any vacuum diaphrams on it while you're at it. Punctured diaphrams are a notorious source of messed up timing.
You should NOT be able to draw any air through them with a spare (CLEAN!) vacuum line if they're okay.

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Old 06-03-2008, 09:34 PM
 
 
 
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