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Old 12-03-2007, 02:09 PM
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Question Can I run B100 in MN winters if I have an in-tank fuel heater?

Can I use the in-tank heaters for WVO setups? Our winters have days on end where the temperature never gets above the gel point.

I don't want to do a full conversion to run on WVO. I just want to be able to run B100 year round.
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Old 12-03-2007, 03:54 PM
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If you drop to B80 or B50 you wont have any problems
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Old 12-03-2007, 04:06 PM
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Really? What's the gel point on those?
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Old 12-04-2007, 09:09 AM
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Gel point is very dependant on feedstock for the BD.

Here is an exerpt from Wikipedia that attempts to address the question:
"The temperature at which pure (B100) biodiesel starts to gel varies significantly and depends upon the mix of esters and therefore the feedstock oil used to produce the biodiesel. For example, biodiesel produced from low erucic acid varieties of canola seed (RME) starts to gel at approximately −10 C (14 F). Biodiesel produced from tallow tends to gel at around +16 C (68 F). As of 2006, there are a very limited number of products that will significantly lower the gel point of straight biodiesel. A number of studies have shown that winter operation is possible with biodiesel blended with other fuel oils including #2 low sulfur diesel fuel and #1 diesel / kerosene. The exact blend depends on the operating environment: successful operations have run using a 65% LS #2, 30% K #1, and 5% bio blend. Other areas have run a 70% Low Sulfur #2, 20% Kerosene #1, and 10% bio blend or an 80% K#1, and 20% biodiesel blend. According to the National Biodiesel Board (NBB), B20 (20% biodiesel, 80% petrodiesel) does not need any treatment in addition to what is already taken with petrodiesel."
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Old 12-04-2007, 11:16 AM
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Another thought you can find the Gel Point or better yet the Cloud Point of any BD blend by putting a sample in a glass jar drop a thermometer in it and place it in the freezer compartment of your fridge.

Monitor frequently for signs of clouding record the temp each time you check at the first sign of clouding go back to the last temp as a safe point.

Cloud Point is when the BD starts to form crystals they can plug filters and cause problems so this is the point you should be concerned about. It occurs at a higher temp than Gel Point. Gel Point is the temp when BD will no longer flow.
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Old 12-04-2007, 12:11 PM
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Thanks. That is good information.
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Old 12-04-2007, 09:54 PM
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You can add chemicals to prevent the gelling. Call the supporter in this forum.... lubrication specialties.com or get ahold of Fabman and he will be able to put you in contact with someone also.
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Old 12-08-2007, 08:01 PM
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I tapped into the coolant (hot side) before it goes into the heater core, used a tee and some fuel line to make a make shift heater around my fuel fliter. I have been using 50%BD/50% K1 this way for two years. My truck stays in a heated garage at night though. I intend to drop the front tank soon to install a homemade coolant heating loop in it, for both piece of mind and the ability to run B100 year round. I hate worrying about it gelling with the mix. The fuel filter wrap is from Dana Linscott, a guru over at infopop. As stated earlier the freezer test are the only way to know your cloud/gell point. Good luck ,Dave
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Old 12-31-2007, 10:10 PM
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you can add an anti-gelling additive to the fuel, southern truckers do it all the time when they run north. its cheap and you don't need much, just add it every time you refuel.
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Old 01-03-2008, 06:07 AM
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You;d prolly need some type of circulating heater, or aux heat, if leaving it parked outside, for any extended period.

I'm sure even B50 would gel pretty quickly @ -10
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Old 01-07-2008, 12:30 PM
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Oops, I unsubscribed to this thread and did not see all the subsequent posts. Thanks for the replies guys.
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Old 01-17-2008, 12:09 AM
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Never used Bio before

I have been thinking of going over to biodiesel now that I found a supplyer in my area but I have heard that the bio is not good for any of the seals in a engin and will cause leaks. I am not to worried about the fuel system because any leaks would be an easy fix but what about the injector orings on a 7.3 di motor?
I would consider replacing injector orings to be a lot of work. What about the fuel pump?
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Old 01-17-2008, 12:09 AM
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