lets say you were to remove the filter inside of the filter housing and install a cold air intake kit but connect the inlet to the inlet on the intake housing. does this make sense? and would it do anything performance wise?

 

So what you are saying is remove the stock filter inside the stock air filter housing.
Then install say a cone filter over the stock air filter housing intake?





Cold air intake,
back in the day of the original NA 6.9 I used the stock air filter housing and flex hose to hook up to the new intake.

 

yeah Im saying just use the stock housing as a sort of adapter to be able to install a cold air. Unless someone knows of a better way to adapt a cold air to the stock intake?

 

Why not leave the filter in the housing, and pipe the fresh air into the housing.

Most of those cones are sucking warm under hood air into the engine.
Unless you are getting air piped in from the front as in ram air, the engine still has to suck the air in.
The warm air is not as good for power as the colder air outside the engine compartment.

 

The ambient air temperature should be 70 degrees...From what i understand 70 degrees is the ideal temperature for the fuel and air to mix...My dad did something similar to that and it work great on his 1994 7.3 idi turbo..He has a ambient temp gauge in his intake and before it was 135 degrees idling and now idling (same temp and warn up time) its 104 degrees and at 60 mph it was 84 degrees and now its 73 at 60 mph..He also wrapped his intake tubing with refelective heat tape......

 

The old rule of thumb is that when the air temp hits 90 degrees on an NA engine, power starts dropping. Ran some dyno tests years back on my old 6.2L NA and found a 10 hp difference between 88 and 155 degree air, measured at the point where the air entered the intake manifold. Cool air is free hp! 'Course sometimes ambient temp is higher than 90 degrees!

 

dave my truck has a small opening in that area but i would have to cut part of my radaitor support to make it bigger and the mountind bolts are really in the way.if it was just open i could run the pipe,what should i do any suggestions.

 

What year is your truck? I put one in my 94' turbo and yes i had to cut the mounting bracket but all in all it took about 3 hours and cost about 40.00

 

This thread sort of died...but if I may I would like to resurrect it.

I can see the cold air intake inside my engine compartment...but it ends there. I guess it lets some in.

I have now on top of my 6.9 one of those round 12 or 14 inch three inch tall filters and its housing and the PO has something like a fiber batting all the way around the folter part...sort of filtering out more stuff...but it would only be leaves and such as the filter is a much more filtering thing that this quilt type polyester batting.

What does the stock intake look like form that air pickup in the core support tot he top of my engine?

Tim

 

Before I owned one ('94 IDI turbo) I thought the holes in the front bumper of the early-mid '90s trucks were the air intake (which I thought was stupid). Now I know better. What are they for?
I'm guessing just to let more air through.
I'm getting ready to build my own front winch bumper and I'm not going to have any "vent holes" in it but it runs so cool even on 100 deg. days I don't think I'll have anything to worry about.
Do these trucks get A LOT hotter when towing heavy loads up a grade?
My Cummins doesn't and it has a custom front winch bumper too.
Just want to make sure the vents are unecessary.

 

On the 84, the intake looks just like it does on my 86.
Where the stock hole is in the picture, there was a plate bolted over the hole blocking any ram air effect at all.

The flattened out are where the stock intake tube goes around the power steering pump is rather small to get enough CFM airflow through it.

As for the air temp, I wish I could have 20 below zero air going into my engine at all times.
The oxygen content of air that cold and the power it makes is great.



As for the vents in the front bumper, the 86 model did not have them.
It would not make any difference to me if it did, I have a 1/2" thick steel plate frame rail to frame rail that runs from the top of my bumper to about 8" below the bumper for my plow bracket.

I tow plenty of weight up some rather steep hills, yes the engine temp does go up, but not enough to worry about.

My thoughts on why Ford added the vents in the bumper, they let air get to the radiator below the AC condenser.
So if you were towing a big RV, and running the AC, the radiator can get air that has not passed through the condensor and been heated before it gets to the radiator.

If you think back, the early 90's was about the time RV travel exploded and so did the size of the RV's.

 

That makes sense as that's exactly where that air would go.

 

OK...so I found a stock diagram....I have the hole in radiator support and I have the black plasctic piece coming from the hole and ending in the engine bay.

I need to find some plenum (flexible part) and that will be easy and now I need to find a stock air filter housing. I have one of those 14 inch full open filters now...so it sucks engine compartment air...rather hot I would imagine...and I want cooler.