302 HO - Mustang Engines
#1
302 HO - Mustang Engines
I know this is a truck forum, but I'm guessing that based on my past experience here with my 86 F250 460 questions, I will get better advice from this forum than I'm finding on any of the Mustang forums.
Some people are telling me that the 1982 Mustang 5.0 HO engine has an inferior block (thin walls). I assume they are comparing it to the later Fox Body years EFI blocks.
Do you guys agree with that assessment, and if so, what blocks (years or casting numbers) do you recommend instead?
I'm wanting to build a good performing carberated 5.0 Liter engine for my 1982 Mustang. Possibly go roller cam. I do have some E7TE heads from an 87 Mustang EFI engine. These are said to flow considerably better than the 82 heads. Are they Ok to use with a carb inducted engine?
Some people are telling me that the 1982 Mustang 5.0 HO engine has an inferior block (thin walls). I assume they are comparing it to the later Fox Body years EFI blocks.
Do you guys agree with that assessment, and if so, what blocks (years or casting numbers) do you recommend instead?
I'm wanting to build a good performing carberated 5.0 Liter engine for my 1982 Mustang. Possibly go roller cam. I do have some E7TE heads from an 87 Mustang EFI engine. These are said to flow considerably better than the 82 heads. Are they Ok to use with a carb inducted engine?
#2
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A motor is the sum of it's parts, and the '82 was hobbled by low compression, a little cam and poor airflow. There was very little difference between any of the ford heads except for chamber size and shape for the most part, but The E7s are about as good as it gets for late model heads(excluding the GT40). I doubt the '82 block is any weaker than any other block, but it is not roller ready so that is a strike against it. Still, with a full rebuild it should be as potent and capable as any other. Do a porting job on the E7s and you will come close to flowing GT40 numbers, which is more than any other untouched factory head flowed. See here... http://www.tmossporting.com/tabid/3682/Default.aspx
There was another good link on the web but I can't find it now. The Ford heads benefit from exhaust side work the most, remove the air injection hump, smooth the bowl area and raise the roof slightly. Gasket matching and hogging out the ports to maximum size is counter productive and not advised. There are others on here that can provide more info if you are interested. All you need is a dremmel or die grinder, a couple carbide bits, and some patience. It may take a couple days to complete both heads, but the results are real.
There was another good link on the web but I can't find it now. The Ford heads benefit from exhaust side work the most, remove the air injection hump, smooth the bowl area and raise the roof slightly. Gasket matching and hogging out the ports to maximum size is counter productive and not advised. There are others on here that can provide more info if you are interested. All you need is a dremmel or die grinder, a couple carbide bits, and some patience. It may take a couple days to complete both heads, but the results are real.
Last edited by Conanski; 07-06-2007 at 08:23 AM.
#4
Originally Posted by Conanski
A motor is the sum of it's parts, and the '82 was hobbled by low compression, a little cam and poor airflow. There was very little difference between any of the ford heads except for chamber size and shape for the most part, but The E7s are about as good as it gets for late model heads(excluding the GT40). I doubt the '82 block is any weaker than any other block, but it is not roller ready so that is a strike against it. Still, with a full rebuild it should be as potent and capable as any other. Do a porting job on the E7s and you will come close to flowing GT40 numbers, which is more than any other untouched factory head flowed. See here... http://www.tmossporting.com/tabid/3682/Default.aspx
There was another good link on the web but I can't find it now. The Ford heads benefit from exhaust side work the most, remove the air injection hump, smooth the bowl area and raise the roof slightly. Gasket matching and hogging out the ports to maximum size is counter productive and not advised. There are others on here that can provide more info if you are interested. All you need is a dremmel or die grinder, a couple carbide bits, and some patience. It may take a couple days to complete both heads, but the results are real.
There was another good link on the web but I can't find it now. The Ford heads benefit from exhaust side work the most, remove the air injection hump, smooth the bowl area and raise the roof slightly. Gasket matching and hogging out the ports to maximum size is counter productive and not advised. There are others on here that can provide more info if you are interested. All you need is a dremmel or die grinder, a couple carbide bits, and some patience. It may take a couple days to complete both heads, but the results are real.
#5
Thanks for the replies
Thanks for the info guys.
I do have a very early 5.0 (C8AE) block from 1973 that is bored 30 over and looks like it would only need to be honed. I also have C9TE truck heads. The guy I got that setup from ran it in a pickup.
What has to be done to a block to allow use of a roller cam?
Tom
I do have a very early 5.0 (C8AE) block from 1973 that is bored 30 over and looks like it would only need to be honed. I also have C9TE truck heads. The guy I got that setup from ran it in a pickup.
What has to be done to a block to allow use of a roller cam?
Tom
#6
Originally Posted by E30tdf
Thanks for the info guys.
I do have a very early 5.0 (C8AE) block from 1973 that is bored 30 over and looks like it would only need to be honed. I also have C9TE truck heads. The guy I got that setup from ran it in a pickup.
What has to be done to a block to allow use of a roller cam?
Tom
I do have a very early 5.0 (C8AE) block from 1973 that is bored 30 over and looks like it would only need to be honed. I also have C9TE truck heads. The guy I got that setup from ran it in a pickup.
What has to be done to a block to allow use of a roller cam?
Tom
#7
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#8
You can find roller 5.0 blocks in just about all Ford, Lincoln or Merc cars and trucks from 87-on. They all used the same blocks, regardless of what cam they came with. Look for these casting numbers: E7TE, E6SE, F1SE, and probably a few others. Some of the non roller applications (86-91 pickups and vans have the roller block, but the two bosses for the lifter spyder hold down bolts aren't drilled and tapped and some aren't fully formed (I have one such in my possesion) These engines had roller blocks with flat tappet cams. The lifter bore bosses are taller on the roller blocks for the taller roller lifters. You can run a flat tappet cam with it's shorter lifters in them, but to do the reverse, takes more money for the mods.
#9
Originally Posted by E30tdf
Thanks for the info guys.
I do have a very early 5.0 (C8AE) block from 1973 that is bored 30 over and looks like it would only need to be honed. I also have C9TE truck heads. The guy I got that setup from ran it in a pickup.
What has to be done to a block to allow use of a roller cam?
Tom
I do have a very early 5.0 (C8AE) block from 1973 that is bored 30 over and looks like it would only need to be honed. I also have C9TE truck heads. The guy I got that setup from ran it in a pickup.
What has to be done to a block to allow use of a roller cam?
Tom
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