Hello everyone! Well, I thought I'd update all of you on how my truck's been doing. Getting ready to do a lot of work to it. Since I purchased it, it's been leaking antifreeze from two of the freeze plugs. Also, the back of the new intake manifold is leaking oil again. Also, came to find out the front oil seal is leaking too. AND the two places where the original EGR valve was connected from hoses from the exhaust manifolds have rusted off, so there's an exhaust leak as well.

Two weeks ago I changed the transmission fluid in the C6 transmission, and put in a new filter, and also drained the torque converter and refilled it. Also put in new gear oil in the rear end. Came to find out my truck has a Dana 60 limited slip differential. Just got some Motorcraft friction modifier (boy does that stuff stink) today in the mail. Will add it my next day off.

Also, this last Wednesday, put in all new brakes all around. New front pads, and complete new brakes on the back. Still need to bleed them, as when the truck's running, you can press the brake pedal all the way to the floor. With the engine off you can't, though.

I have purchased new gaskets for pretty much the whole engine. New valve cover gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets, oil pan gasket, timing cover gasket, front oil seal, water pump gaskets, fuel pump gasket, etc. Plan on taking off the intake manifold, and put in new gaskets, and put in a front and rear gasket as well (the Edelbrock intake manifold, we originally put in gasket sealer in the back without any gaskets, because Edelbrock said that you didn't need a gasket). Got actual gaskets for it this time for the front and rear of the intake manifold. Will get it right this time!

Then after that, I plan on changing 6 freeze plugs, 3 on each side of the engine. I purchased Milodon brass freeze plugs for the engine. That will fix any and all of the current antifreeze leaks, and prevent any further leaks in the future.

Also, will need to take off the radiator, fan shroud and fan, as well as water pump, fuel pump, starter and alternator, to be able to fix the front oil seal leak. At the same time I will inspect the timing chain, and put in all new timing cover gaskets, and a new front oil seal. Will also try to put in a new rear oil seal as well.

In addition to all that, to change the freeze plugs, will have to take off the entire exhaust system, which is no problem. And since there are exhaust leaks, I decided to purchase an entire header dual exhaust system. Purchased it from Summit Racing for around $280 with shipping. Includes Dynomax headers, and Dynomax Thrush Turbo mufflers, as well as all bracketing, and all pipes and hardware needed, to have the new exhaust system exit out the sides in front of the rear tires.

Also, want to take off the oil pan, and inspect the filter screen in the oil pump. If it's dirty I will replace it. Plan on also getting an electric oil pressure gauge, to see what the oil pressure is on the engine. The idiot gauge reads about a third up, so it's probably getting around 30psi. I read in the Ford factory service manual, that on 390 engines, there isn't any need to do anything to get the oil pan off. Just unbolt the oil pan, and then rotate the crank as the oil pan can come off, and that's it. No raising engine, or anything like that.

But anyway, after I'm all done it should not leak anything anymore, since I'm replacing every gasket, and using blue RTV sealant on all gaskets (that stuff works great).

BTW, my dad and I did the brake job ourselves, cost me a total of around $150 for all the parts I needed, which wasn't bad at all. Nice to know the truck has brand new brakes all around, since I didn't really know the history of the truck. It's always good to check everything, though.

I'll keep everyone updated as this project progresses. I'll try and remember to take pictures as I do everything. Also, I have 3 cans of engine degreaser, and as I fix leaks, I plan on cleaning up the engine and undercarriage real nice.

 

Damn I hate to hear that. Silicone has it's place (very few) and it sure can mess up an engine. Use gaskets, use some spray adhesive on the removable part, stick on the gasket, coat the other side with some silicone dielectric grease or regular grease to make it easy to clean up if repair is needed again. Then bolt that part on!

I have seen way to many radiators and oil pumps clogged up with silicone squeeze out from the over use of silicone. Nothing will flush that stuff out or dissolve it. Use gaskets, they ARE the sealer!

 

Wow got a lot of plans good to hear on a update cant wait till the next update comes good luck on everything you do and yes try to remeber some pics we like those

 

Yep, gonna have all that done within 3 weeks from now. But yeah, I always forget to take pics until after I do all the projects, then I take pictures of what it looks like after, and not before pics. I'll try to take some before pics, as well as after pics this time.

 

Sounds like a nice project. I agree with Torque1st on the silicone RTV. Other than the ends of the intake, I only use a light "smear" whenever I use it. I bought a car with a knocking engine a few years ago. When I tore the engine down, I found a blob of RTV inside the crank journal blocking oil supply to the rods!

 

Well yeah when I use RTV I only use a "smear" too. Mostly just use the gasket, but just apply a light smear to the gaskets.

 

Well here are the updates on my truck so far.

Unfortunately I haven't taken any photos of anything done this time. I was going to, but just decided not to, as I don't think the photos would turn out too well on what's been done. That, and this time, my dad has done most of the work, as I have had to work a lot lately and hard to find time to work on the truck.

Let's see. Took out the radiator, fan, shroud. Disconnected fuel pump. Got the exhaust manifolds off. Only broke one bolt, but was able to drill it out and rethread the hole. Ordered new exhaust manifolds today (aftermarket). Got them on Partstrain for around $120 shipped. Kragen Auto Parts or Napa Auto Parts wanted $275 for passenger side, and $175 for driver side exhaust manifolds, which was REDICULOUS!

Got off timing cover. Old timing chain was somewhat looser than what it should be. Purchased a new timing chain and gears. Installed them. Installed new timing cover gaskets, and front oil seal. Installed also, new Carter fuel pump.

Installed all new freeze plugs, all brass.

Installed new spark plugs today. Purchased Autolite Platinum AP45's. Old spark plugs were NGK V-Power plugs, which were in there when I first purchased the truck, never had changed them until now. All the spark plugs were fine (brownish color). Didn't know how long it's been since they've been changed, but thought I might as well change them.

Purchased new Grade-8 exhaust manifold bolts and washers. Also just purchased new exhaust manifold spark plug heat shields, and exhaust manifold gaskets.

Took off intake manifold. Having the Edelbrock manifold, it said when you use the gasket, you don't need the front or rear gaskets, just put in Gasgacinch. Well that's not true. Leaked oil out the rear and front. I purchased the original intake manifold gasket set, which includes the front and rear intake seals as well. Installed them this time, so it should not leak oil anymore now!

I am not going to worry, right now, about taking off the oil pan to put a new gasket on there. I don't think oil's leaking out of around the oil pan. We'll see when the truck is all put back together and running again. If it still leaks, then we'll take the oil pan off, and also put in a rear oil seal while it's off.

Going to clean up the valve covers, and put on the new rubber gaskets, and the valve covers.

Tomorrow, going to put back in the radiator, shroud, and fan. Everything will be installed and ready to go except for the exhaust manifolds, and some other smaller stuff so that there is enough room to put the manifolds back on.

I decided to buy new exhaust manifolds, because some of the studs broke off of the existing manifolds. And since they're original, they looked somewhat rusty, so I thought it'd be best to put on new ones.

Still have to put on the water pump again, and the new gaskets for that. All in all, however, getting there!

Can't use the existing exhaust system anymore. Had a whole header system I purchased from Summit Racing..had to return the entire thing, wouldn't fit. But they refunded me all my money, minus shipping, which isn't TOO bad. Going to an exhaust place, and have them duplicate the system that's on my truck now (dual exhaust pipes, each one exiting in front of each rear wheel). Shouldn't be too much, as they don't have to install the system, just fabricate the pipes to fit. Shouldn't cost more than $300-$400 I hope!

I will keep you all updated as usual!

 

Sounds like you're having fun. I will be nice once you've gotten everything fixed.
One method I use to determine how long spark plugs have been in use, is to look closely at the center electrode. If it has a flat face and sharp edges, chances are they're fairly new. (low miles) The center electrode edges will gradually become rounded as they wear.

 

Just use regular copper plugs like the Autolite 45 or Champion RF11YC, platinum are for modern engines with coil on plug ignition

That's not what they imply. Use gaskasinch on the INTAKE gaskets, as in, glue them to the cylinder head so they do not slip on ya and use a bead of silicone on the front and back of the block and some dabs at each corner to seal it all up.

Josh

 

since we are talking about updates and camper specials, i see the light at the end of the tunnel, my truck has been in the body shop for 3 years now, i went and seen it
today and the truck is put together and painted. im waiting on a windshield this week
i had all the work done at a ford dealership. 1978 custom one ton 140 inch wheel base
truck started life as a fire truck in benton harbor ark. it had a utility bed on it. didn't even know that is was a 140 inch wheel base at the time. i was wondering why there was a 7 inch gap between the cab and the utility bed. found a bed online ebay, bought it and travelled 5000 miles round trip (detroit to seattle) to get it. put the bed on it, i worked out all the bugs out if it before i put it in the shop, new 4 core radiator
fixed exhaust leaks, rebuild carburator, new thermostat, truck only had 4,700 miles when i purchased it. now has 12,000 miles on it. when i get it back im going to put all the camper special brackets on it. i have all the tie downs, and the spare tire carrier
all the pieces are getting beed blasted right now and painted epoxy, the truck was also beed blasted taken apart and the whole body blocked out several times. there wasn't any rust to begin with but i started with a clean slate. i will also have to update the interior, probably a winter project. my vision is for a new old truck, and no better candidate than a 73-79 ford i absolutely love that body style.....theres more to say but im going to save it for another day, i will post pictures when done, this has been a 5 year project and i can't wait.

 

Well it's been a little while since I notified all of you of how my truck project's been going. I started some vacation time 3 days ago (Saturday). Almost got my truck done! Saturday I had the front exhaust pipes redone at Johnny Franklin Muffler, cost me $102 total for both front pipes, which isn't that bad. Last Friday I got my new exhaust manifolds. Installed them Sunday (yesterday). I got two 31" Cherry Bomb glasspacks, that one went on each side. Put the front pipes and glasspacks on today. Going tomorrow (Tuesday) and getting the tailpipes made (from the glasspacks to just in front of the rear tires). Those shouldn't cost me that much (maybe $60 or so). Altogether, the entire new exhaust system (manifolds, piping, glasspacks, clamps, hardware) cost me around $350 which really isn't bad at all. I will make sure to post pictures after it's all done!

Today finished putting the engine back together and everything. Started it up and runs great. No antifreeze leaks anymore, or oil leaks. Quite a bit louder with glasspacks on instead of actual mufflers, but sounds good. Not too loud, just perfect...sounds like what a classic muscle car/truck should sound like.

I will keep you all updated...but the truck should be ALL done by the end of tomorrow (Tuesday). Can't wait to drive it!

 

Finished today! Had the tail pipes made up, and finished up the truck! Took it for a test drive! Purrs like a cat, until you mash on the gas pedal, then it sounds like thunder down the road lol...

Here are pictures!


New front pipes from manifold to the muffler.


Right side exhaust on truck.


Left side exhaust on truck.


Old exhaust! Almost rusted out! Needed to be replaced!

As you can see, it turned out really nice! Sounds as good as it looks too. Altogether, for the entire exhaust system, it cost me around $400, which isn't bad. A custom exhaust job would've cost upwards of $700+!

Anyway, let me all know what you think! Also, you can visit my gallery, as there are even more pictures I just added in there of the engine, fan, etc!

 

Been driving my truck for a couple days now since I completed it, have had no problems at all, and the truck is not dripping one single drop of antifreeze or oil. I'm loving it!