Trim removal?
#1
#2
#3
race track
Race track mouldings (and most other types) used mostly plastic clips that were RIVETED to the sheet metal originally. The clips went on first, then the mouldings were placed over the top lip of the clip and pushed on at the bottom.
At each end of the mouldings, is a metal clip with attached threaded stud that was bolted on. The clip has a spring arm that kept the clip in place...not allowing the moulding to slide. The clips were first placed in the moulding, then placed in pre drilled holes in the body, a nut secures it to the body from the backside.
Regular Cab~Race Track~clips per side~per moulding UPPER
Front Fender: 5 / Door: 6 / Corner of cab: 2 / Bed Side: 12 / Vertical End Mldg: 3
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Regular Cab~clips per side~per moulding LOWER
Front Fender: 6 / Door: 6 / Corner Cab: 2 / Bedside: 15
Best procedure...remove end clip nuts, then ease mouldings off from the bottom using a plastic putty knife or something that will not bend the moulding, damage the clips or the paint. Two or more ppl will be helpful. Do NOT try removing the mouldings with the clips attached, that will not only ruin the clips, but the mouldings too. NOTE: You cannot slide the mouldings off. The clips at either ends of the mouldings with the stud that goes through the sheet metal acts as a stop, and prevent this from happening.
Most of the above clips ARE the plastic riveted on type.
Suggestion...go to a Ford dealer and ask to see the moulding section diagrams (race track) in the 73/79 truck parts catalog. All the clips are shown, and where they are on the mouldings. The clips are coded. At the end of the F Series moulding section, the clips are illustrated by codes...this way, you can see exactly what you are dealing with.
At each end of the mouldings, is a metal clip with attached threaded stud that was bolted on. The clip has a spring arm that kept the clip in place...not allowing the moulding to slide. The clips were first placed in the moulding, then placed in pre drilled holes in the body, a nut secures it to the body from the backside.
Regular Cab~Race Track~clips per side~per moulding UPPER
Front Fender: 5 / Door: 6 / Corner of cab: 2 / Bed Side: 12 / Vertical End Mldg: 3
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Regular Cab~clips per side~per moulding LOWER
Front Fender: 6 / Door: 6 / Corner Cab: 2 / Bedside: 15
Best procedure...remove end clip nuts, then ease mouldings off from the bottom using a plastic putty knife or something that will not bend the moulding, damage the clips or the paint. Two or more ppl will be helpful. Do NOT try removing the mouldings with the clips attached, that will not only ruin the clips, but the mouldings too. NOTE: You cannot slide the mouldings off. The clips at either ends of the mouldings with the stud that goes through the sheet metal acts as a stop, and prevent this from happening.
Most of the above clips ARE the plastic riveted on type.
Suggestion...go to a Ford dealer and ask to see the moulding section diagrams (race track) in the 73/79 truck parts catalog. All the clips are shown, and where they are on the mouldings. The clips are coded. At the end of the F Series moulding section, the clips are illustrated by codes...this way, you can see exactly what you are dealing with.
Last edited by NumberDummy; 04-23-2007 at 03:35 AM.
#5
On the lower bed racetrack molding, the clips above the wheel arch labeled "B" are kind of hard to get at because of the inner fender panel. I used a pliers to pinch the clip and then it slides out of the hole. Look at the easier ones toward the rear and you'll see what I mean. The rear clip on the lower bedside racetrack molding labeled "A", you'll have to pull the taillight out to get at them. As NumberDummy said, the molding just snaps off the plastic clips.
You'll have to remove your front splash guards and rear splash guards if you have them to get at some of the molding clips.
Hope this helps.
You'll have to remove your front splash guards and rear splash guards if you have them to get at some of the molding clips.
Hope this helps.
#6
Originally Posted by bucks77ford
On the lower bed racetrack molding, the clips above the wheel arch labeled "B" are kind of hard to get at because of the inner fender panel. I used a pliers to pinch the clip and then it slides out of the hole. Look at the easier ones toward the rear and you'll see what I mean. The rear clip on the lower bedside racetrack molding labeled "A", you'll have to pull the taillight out to get at them. As NumberDummy said, the molding just snaps off the plastic clips.
You'll have to remove your front splash guards and rear splash guards if you have them to get at some of the molding clips.
Hope this helps.
You'll have to remove your front splash guards and rear splash guards if you have them to get at some of the molding clips.
Hope this helps.
Type C is the plastic clips.
#7
It's too bad microfiche isn't more user friendly in posting pics. Usually, if I find a picture I have to scan it, then try to get it as clear as possible (might have to crop), then post it to a website (i use photobucket), and then post it to FTE. Kind of time consuming, but it works. I just have to get a clear image.
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#8
Thanks guys! This really helps. I took the beltline molding off the truck today and was pleased that what rust I saw was merely surface. This is camping and rockcrawling season so a good brushing and some spray balm primer and then paint and it looks pretty decent. Will hold me over till I can get it in the shop this winter. Looks to be original paint! The bed is in real good shape and the front clip as well. Got to find 2 doors this summer though.
Thanks a bunch for the pics!
Ken
Thanks a bunch for the pics!
Ken
#9
I just picked up a 79 Ranger XLT from the Original owner. 93k miles. Very clean but does need paint. I understand how to take off the race track moldings, but I still haven't found any guidance on putting it back on. Can anyone point me to a thread on FTE to describes how to reinstall, or walk me thru it. And I'm not opposed to pictures! I learn better when I see it done!
#10
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