Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/index.php)
-   1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum38/)
-   -   Trim removal? (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/605405-trim-removal.html)

broncman 04-22-2007 07:31 PM

Trim removal?
 
I have a78 F350 trailer special with the race track style molding. I want to start some body work and would like to save the molding. How doyou get the molding of from the sides of the bed? Both beltline and the "track" needs to come off.
Thanks

76fordfan 04-23-2007 01:12 AM

look underthe bed on the back side there should be a few nuts then under the trim there are some studs that you shift the trim one way or the other and it should come right off

NumberDummy 04-23-2007 03:10 AM

race track
 
Race track mouldings (and most other types) used mostly plastic clips that were RIVETED to the sheet metal originally. The clips went on first, then the mouldings were placed over the top lip of the clip and pushed on at the bottom.

At each end of the mouldings, is a metal clip with attached threaded stud that was bolted on. The clip has a spring arm that kept the clip in place...not allowing the moulding to slide. The clips were first placed in the moulding, then placed in pre drilled holes in the body, a nut secures it to the body from the backside.


Regular Cab~Race Track~clips per side~per moulding UPPER

Front Fender: 5 / Door: 6 / Corner of cab: 2 / Bed Side: 12 / Vertical End Mldg: 3
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Regular Cab~clips per side~per moulding LOWER

Front Fender: 6 / Door: 6 / Corner Cab: 2 / Bedside: 15

Best procedure...remove end clip nuts, then ease mouldings off from the bottom using a plastic putty knife or something that will not bend the moulding, damage the clips or the paint. Two or more ppl will be helpful. Do NOT try removing the mouldings with the clips attached, that will not only ruin the clips, but the mouldings too. NOTE: You cannot slide the mouldings off. The clips at either ends of the mouldings with the stud that goes through the sheet metal acts as a stop, and prevent this from happening.

Most of the above clips ARE the plastic riveted on type.

Suggestion...go to a Ford dealer and ask to see the moulding section diagrams (race track) in the 73/79 truck parts catalog. All the clips are shown, and where they are on the mouldings. The clips are coded. At the end of the F Series moulding section, the clips are illustrated by codes...this way, you can see exactly what you are dealing with.

bucks77ford 04-23-2007 10:06 AM

Here are some illustrations of the trim and clips.


https://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j...can10002-2.jpg

https://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j...ackmolding.jpg

https://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j...ackmolding.jpg

https://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j...ackmolding.jpg

https://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j...permolding.jpg

https://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j...permolding.jpg

bucks77ford 04-23-2007 10:24 AM

On the lower bed racetrack molding, the clips above the wheel arch labeled "B" are kind of hard to get at because of the inner fender panel. I used a pliers to pinch the clip and then it slides out of the hole. Look at the easier ones toward the rear and you'll see what I mean. The rear clip on the lower bedside racetrack molding labeled "A", you'll have to pull the taillight out to get at them. As NumberDummy said, the molding just snaps off the plastic clips.

You'll have to remove your front splash guards and rear splash guards if you have them to get at some of the molding clips.

Hope this helps.

NumberDummy 04-23-2007 02:36 PM


Originally Posted by bucks77ford
On the lower bed racetrack molding, the clips above the wheel arch labeled "B" are kind of hard to get at because of the inner fender panel. I used a pliers to pinch the clip and then it slides out of the hole. Look at the easier ones toward the rear and you'll see what I mean. The rear clip on the lower bedside racetrack molding labeled "A", you'll have to pull the taillight out to get at them. As NumberDummy said, the molding just snaps off the plastic clips.

You'll have to remove your front splash guards and rear splash guards if you have them to get at some of the molding clips.

Hope this helps.

It helps are great deal..thanks...one of the downsides of using microfiche is the inability to post pics.

Type C is the plastic clips.

bucks77ford 04-23-2007 03:17 PM

It's too bad microfiche isn't more user friendly in posting pics. Usually, if I find a picture I have to scan it, then try to get it as clear as possible (might have to crop), then post it to a website (i use photobucket), and then post it to FTE. Kind of time consuming, but it works. I just have to get a clear image.

broncman 04-23-2007 04:46 PM

Thanks guys! This really helps. I took the beltline molding off the truck today and was pleased that what rust I saw was merely surface. This is camping and rockcrawling season so a good brushing and some spray balm primer and then paint and it looks pretty decent. Will hold me over till I can get it in the shop this winter. Looks to be original paint! The bed is in real good shape and the front clip as well. Got to find 2 doors this summer though.
Thanks a bunch for the pics!
Ken

Buildingdavej 09-08-2015 03:45 PM

I just picked up a 79 Ranger XLT from the Original owner. 93k miles. Very clean but does need paint. I understand how to take off the race track moldings, but I still haven't found any guidance on putting it back on. Can anyone point me to a thread on FTE to describes how to reinstall, or walk me thru it. And I'm not opposed to pictures! I learn better when I see it done!

2bad79s 12-29-2015 08:08 AM

Bringing up a ghost here, but I have rust at both rear wheel arches and plan to repair with patch panels. Since the patch panel won't have the rivets, how have you guys been reattaching the racetrack trim after body repair? My guess is adhesive, but I want it to look nice and last.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:07 AM.


© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands