A bacon cheeseburger tastes good (no oily mess on boots), but if a lot are eaten over a long enough time (sustained driving at near WOT), they might cause a heart attack (oil blowing by engine seals)! The cheeseburger bit was just to attract some views to get inputs regarding my concerns about a possible CCV mod for my old truck, are they real or imagined? I've already had a boot blow off half-way up a mountain, and I almost fell onto the running engine while reconnecting it, so I appreciate the advantage of a CCV mod!

After reading my posts here https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/588228-turbo-air-guide-tag.html , you can see why I'm concerned that using Guzzle's CCV mod on my old truck might not work out so well for sustained driving at near WOT, such as towing long grades and bucking head winds with my high-profile 5er.

I'll summarize my concerns here. Guzzle reported measuring a positive crankcase pressure of 7.5 in H2O (0.27 psi) at idle. Racor claims a X4 increase at WOT which would give 30 in H2O (1.08 psi). This seems too low to me, because my SOP impression is that my truck works much harder than a X4 towing a grade than at idle, but maybe the X4 is correct for the increase in blow-by pressure?

In any case, Racor claims that even the 1 psi number exceeds manufactures spec for seals? Racor also claims that an older engine (like mine) at WOT has a X8 more blow-by pressure than a newer one at idle.

Maybe actual seals perform much better than the spec? Maybe sustained WOT conditions using Guzzle's CCV mod on my old truck runs a high risk of blowing my seals? This is what I'm trying to determine. So far, I haven't found any test data to show how much crankcase pressure it takes to blow seals. I've searched for oil leak reports, and find that most show a CCV mod on their signature? Is there a way to automatically search for these two conditions?

I can't hook CCV to tailpipe due to extensive use of my exhaust brake which results in insufficient flow and would pressurize the crankcase. Drag racers use a vacuum pump arrangement to vent the crankcase, and I'm looking into that approach. Any other ideas or comments?

 

After reading your threads, I am to come to the conclusion that leaving the ccv in the stock location, (in the intake) is actually better? I don't tow a 5'vr, but carry a Lance tc occasionally at around 3000 lbs loaded. Interesting reading btw.

 

ernest what about the racor ccv filter and then plumb it back into the intake pre-filter. That is what I am planning on doing to keep the oil out of the boots and not vent to atmosphere as it is now. Also with 10K on my CCV vented to atmosphere 2 OUA's have been excellent and 0 leaks. But I am no where near WOT 95% of the time.

 

If you terminate the CCV mod into the exhaust system with the correct fitting in the exhaust you will actually have suction on the ccv line even at idle. I posted this some time ago but can't find the link on it right now.

 

Found it,
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ml#post3964795

 

Any big increase in pressure would pop the oil dipstick out and relieve it right?

 

This is all very interesting. I have had an oil "sweat" leak for a year, in that every few days I will have a "sweat" of oil residue at the front of the bellhousing, where it meets the trans. Never enough to hit the ground, or even saturate a q-tip end, but it drives me crazy. I also have had a problem with the degas bottle seaping a wee bit of coolant out of the lid. Never much, no drips to gound or anything, but I see dried residue around the lid. I replaced the lid, and no changes. Both of these annoyances are completely unpredictable. As for the oil "sweat", I have no visible leaks: turbo & pedistal are dry, valley is dry, HPOP lines look fine, ICP sensor new, etc. The truck can sit for weeks, and the bell housing is bone dry.

I have the CCV mod for two years, just a heater hose running under truck. Truck has 151K and I am now seriously thinking both of these problems could be a result of my CCV being vented right to the atmosphere, and as a result have been causing excessive CC pressures, and something is then 'letting go'. I am going to replace the CCV, get some diesel rated hose, and install the CCV into the exhaust.

These findings could really be a mess for the masses of people, like me, that have done the "quick and easy" CCV mod. I wonder if I have damaged a gasket or seal somewhere or caused permanent damage to my motor?
All this makes sense, as I have a greater oil "sweat" after being rough on the truck, indicating higher CC pressures being produced and being released where they should'nt.

Thanks for bringing such a "simple, basic" topic to light, and exposing serious potential problems from a cheap mod. Points are awarded to you!

Fixing this problem will take top priority. Where is the best place to run the CCV into the exhaust at? I know you should'nt have a lot of hose running from the CCV, and have to avoid 'low points' where fluid could pond and freeze and cause a blockage. Is it best to run it into the downpipe???

 

I ran mine into the hump above the axle. Very simple. Exhaust looks clear. Hook CCV hose into exhaust and it turns cloudy. Take it off and it is clear again. Repeat a couple of times till you are convinced.

Also, I left it off and hanging for a while before I decided to stick it into the exhaust.

 

My CCV is vented to the atmosphere through a long hose under the truck. I installed a slip sleeve in the lowest point of the hose to drain any excess oil. Had mine in for over 3 years and not even a drop has accumulated in the low spot of the hose.

Anyway, HERE is a thread on actual testing and a write up on some CCV options by a member of the "other" forum:

 

HeatStroked,
That's some excellent info there! It leaves me with further questions:
-has anyone performed testing on the exhaust bung method yet?
-if there are times when the CC creates a vacum, would it not be possible to suck exhaust soot into the CC and contaminate the oil? I suppose it would have to be creating a vaccum at low RPM's for this to happen?
-if the exhaust pressure at idle blows out of the bung, is that pressure not greater than the pressure of the exiting CCV fumes, which would cause a pressure build-up within the motor?

What are you all doing with the exhaust method. Do you use a bung with a checkvalve in it? Is there a certain "way or angle" the bung should be installed to perform properly? I try to search for CCV Mod, but it does not work, I guess it is too few leters? Thanks, Jason.

EDIT: I see Cuda_jim's info! I'm reading it, and checking part numbers. Thanks.

 

Big rigs have been venting their CC vapors into the atmosphere for how long? And how many miles are on their trucks?

 

Yup, vent it to atmosphere and be done! Anything you add, hook up to, turn it into... just makes it stop up and blow seals...

 

Apples to Oranges. Big rig engine were designed with the "Vent to Atmosphere" in mind. PSD's were not. They need negative pressure for the CCV system to operate IMHO.

 

I ran the hose out to the rear tire area and it was smoking with no leaks. Later on, I ran the hose into the exhaust pipe which does give it vacuum.

 

Comparing Apples to Apples, the T444E from International vents to the atmosphere.