starter-click, click, click, click.
#1
starter-click, click, click, click.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 22-Oct-02 AT 07:47 PM (EST)]Where to start.... ok, All of a sudden my truck wont start when I turn the key. I thought it was the ground going from my - terminal from the battery to the frame. I eventually switched the - battery cable to the block. I got a new starter solenoid, hooked all the wires up the way they should be (?) and still, click, click, click. The sound is coming from the solenoid itself. When the cable form the solenoid going to the starter is removed, I am getting 12v (at the post), but when I attach the cable from the starter to the solenoid, Im getting like 2v. Seems like the starter is grounding out, but there is nothing there to ground it out, as I have removed my headers.
I have been working on this for two solid days now, and am at a loss after replacing the starter, solenoid, and making sure all the grounds are tight......
any suggestions? Im going nuts.
also, how should the wiring be set up on the solenoid? 78 merc 302ci, electronic ignition.
I have been working on this for two solid days now, and am at a loss after replacing the starter, solenoid, and making sure all the grounds are tight......
any suggestions? Im going nuts.
also, how should the wiring be set up on the solenoid? 78 merc 302ci, electronic ignition.
#2
starter-click, click, click, click.
Solenoid clicking is usually a sign of insufficient voltage. Are Certain you have a good battery and cables free of corrosion? I assume you have tried jumper cables to rule out the battery? Have you tried the starter with it off the truck to make sure she kicks out the bendix and spins at least. The starter could be bound up with the flywheel. Is the engine free spinning. I assume it ran lately?
Regarding solenoid wiring, the + battery cable goes to the input post. There should be 1 or 2 fuse links also on that post. They feed the ignition switch along with everything else. The output post goes to the starter as you know. The small "S" terminal receives 12V from the ignition switch in key start position. You may have a small "I" terminal which feeds the coil full 12V when cranking. "I" terminal won't effect starter at all. If you are clicking the "S" terminal is probably OK.
'fenders
Regarding solenoid wiring, the + battery cable goes to the input post. There should be 1 or 2 fuse links also on that post. They feed the ignition switch along with everything else. The output post goes to the starter as you know. The small "S" terminal receives 12V from the ignition switch in key start position. You may have a small "I" terminal which feeds the coil full 12V when cranking. "I" terminal won't effect starter at all. If you are clicking the "S" terminal is probably OK.
'fenders
#3
starter-click, click, click, click.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 22-Oct-02 AT 09:37 PM (EST)]Fenders posted while I was composing mine. He's too quick for me. Anyway, here's what I had put together based on your original post. Fenders answer is right on as well.
OK, you've got one of two problems I think.
1. Your battery is shorting out internally under heavy loads.
2. Your starter is shorted out internally.
To answer #1, try a different battery or have your current one thoroughly tested (under load) to make sure it's OK. Having a battery short out one or more cells internally is not that unusual and has happened to me. My heater fan would work but as soon as I added the headlights or tried the starter the battery would drop to a few volts.
For #2, the easiest way to find out is to get any old starter designed for 12V (junkyard, store, around the yard, wherever). Disconnect your existing starter's positive cable at the solenoid. Connect one positive end of a pair of jumper cables to the starter post on your solenoid and the other end to the positive input on the new starter. Connect one negative end of the jumper cables to one of the new starter's case and the other negative to your battery's negative terminal. If the new starter spins when you turn the key your old starter is shot.
I would NOT advise making a direct connection from the battery positive and negative terminals to the old starter's positive terminal and case. If the starter is shorted out you can get quite an arc. The solenoid is designed to deal with switching this load better than a jumper cable clamp is.
Let us know how you make out.
George
OK, you've got one of two problems I think.
1. Your battery is shorting out internally under heavy loads.
2. Your starter is shorted out internally.
To answer #1, try a different battery or have your current one thoroughly tested (under load) to make sure it's OK. Having a battery short out one or more cells internally is not that unusual and has happened to me. My heater fan would work but as soon as I added the headlights or tried the starter the battery would drop to a few volts.
For #2, the easiest way to find out is to get any old starter designed for 12V (junkyard, store, around the yard, wherever). Disconnect your existing starter's positive cable at the solenoid. Connect one positive end of a pair of jumper cables to the starter post on your solenoid and the other end to the positive input on the new starter. Connect one negative end of the jumper cables to one of the new starter's case and the other negative to your battery's negative terminal. If the new starter spins when you turn the key your old starter is shot.
I would NOT advise making a direct connection from the battery positive and negative terminals to the old starter's positive terminal and case. If the starter is shorted out you can get quite an arc. The solenoid is designed to deal with switching this load better than a jumper cable clamp is.
Let us know how you make out.
George
#4
#5
starter-click, click, click, click.
Oh my god!
So I ask this buddy of mine if he has an extra battery laying around his shop, he says yeah! I have a new battery for you. Brings it by, and its charged up, showing 12.6v. I hook it up, and the same thing, click, click, click. Now I am stumped...... New battery, new solenoid, new starter, fresh wiring, what could be wrong? I start fiddling with my ignition, my wiring, checking my flywheel, starter tested AGAIN, blah, blah, blah. (I now havent had my daily driver for almost a week) totally frustrated. Im feeling like such a moron, because I built this thing myself, and I should know whats going wrong, but I dont. Last option- NEW battery! I hook this thing up, and she starts first turn of the key. O M G!!!!!! I could have just done this, and been done with it. Turns out the battery I thought had 12.6v was bad under load just like the other one I had. Oh well, I learned alot of things, and got a bunch of new stuff, most of which are about 15 new grey hairs. You guys are always right.
Thank you. :-X23
So I ask this buddy of mine if he has an extra battery laying around his shop, he says yeah! I have a new battery for you. Brings it by, and its charged up, showing 12.6v. I hook it up, and the same thing, click, click, click. Now I am stumped...... New battery, new solenoid, new starter, fresh wiring, what could be wrong? I start fiddling with my ignition, my wiring, checking my flywheel, starter tested AGAIN, blah, blah, blah. (I now havent had my daily driver for almost a week) totally frustrated. Im feeling like such a moron, because I built this thing myself, and I should know whats going wrong, but I dont. Last option- NEW battery! I hook this thing up, and she starts first turn of the key. O M G!!!!!! I could have just done this, and been done with it. Turns out the battery I thought had 12.6v was bad under load just like the other one I had. Oh well, I learned alot of things, and got a bunch of new stuff, most of which are about 15 new grey hairs. You guys are always right.
Thank you. :-X23
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