I am putting a 1977 motor into a 1962 Ford Truck. We have wired it up, it does fire up but will not stay running, I am sure we are a wire off. Something minor. I cannot find a Chiltons book going back to 1962 or 1977. Any ideas on how to get a diagram? Desperate! Thanks

 

Haynes has a manual for 73-79 for trucks. It has some ok wiring diagrams for firing order and so on. It gets me by most of the time.

 

Mark, Wiring has become more complicated, than it was when your truck was built. You have to have power to the starter, through the ignition to the coil, and from the alt. to the battery, and that is about it.

Did you use the generator from the old truck or the alt from the new. I suspect that is where your problem is. The alt. may be producing more power than the system can handle. Since you can crank and run the truck. Seems like there is a resistor, or something that has to be used when making the change.

I'm sure another of the problem solving team will expound on this and by night fall you will have an answer.


John

66 F100s
In the still cool hours of the night, you can hear chevys rusting away.

 

Are we talking Spark plug wiring here as in firing order or the electrical connections? I assume the latter and agree with John. If your engine fired and ran in the old truck then it should work here to. What solenoid are you running? I ask because 67-79 have an extra terminal on the solenoid for ignition which I'm not sure the older ones had. If so, that extra terminal supplies coil power when the key is in the on position. Regardless, my theory here is that you have no juice to the coil when the key is in the on position. Test the coil lead by putting the key "on" and testing for 12v to the coil. If you have power to the coil then I recommend disconnecting all other engine wiring except the hot lead to the coil and your starter. Get the engine to start and run then hook things up one by one. This will help you identify your problem. I hope this helps. Good luck.

<font color="#f80732" size="4" face="Graphite Light">Stock Man
</font><font color="#0000FF" size="2" face="Graphite Light">1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd</font>
<font color="#0000FF" size="2" face="Graphite Light">1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side</font>
<a href="http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee">http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee</a>

 

We are going to try out your suggestions tomarrow 12-19. I'll post how it went! Thanks again! Mark

 

<marquee><h1>Have you driven a Ford Lately?<blink<h1></marquee>
[img]/dcforum/Images/wink.gif[/img]

---

<font color="#f80732" size="4" face="Graphite Light">Stock Man
</font><font color="#0000FF" size="2" face="Graphite Light">1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd</font>
<font color="#0000FF" size="2" face="Graphite Light">1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side</font>
<a href="http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee">http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee</a>

 

From the sounds of things you've got it together right for the most part. If it starts and runs when the key is in the start position, it sounds like you need like there's no juice to the coil in the run position. You probably need the solenoid off the an early 70's Ford and it doesn't really matter what model so long as the solenoid has four terminals - two large and two small. One large terminal goes to the bat, and the other large terminal goes to the starter. One of the small ones goes to the coil when the key is in the start position and the other powers the coil in the run position.

Trail Rider

 

 

What size motor is it?

 

DS, This is a 8 1/2 year old thread, and the original poster was not registered. Prolly got it figured out by now.


John

 

WOW...very cool old post....dixiespeed, happy to have you part of FTE

 

OMG, this has got to be the record for resurrection of an old thread. Blast from the past!