While getting my oill changed, the pit guy reported my oil pan was rusting. I happened to be at the non local friendly FORD Dealer and mentioned it to the Service Manger who told me it was "the lousy steel FORD uses and your Differential covers are probably rusting out, too". And they are - from the inside out.

Seems strange to me oil bathed steel could rust, but the Dealer said the engine had to come out to replace the oil pan with an OEM to the tune of $800.00. He would install a SS aftermarket, but he wouldn't warrent the pan.

So, where can I get a Stainless Oil Pan and Diff covers for a 2003 7.3L X?

Thanks

 

Also, I was wondering - is there a way to swap oil pans without pulling the engine? A friend of mine, (mechanic), told me he could just cut the rivets on the crossmember and then use bolts to put it back.

 

Found the titles to two service bulletins that seem, by their titles, to cover this issue.

Does anyone know where can I access this info?

7.3L Engine-Oil Pan Corrosion Service Tip Bulletin
TSB0220 - Technical Service Bulletin 2002-20

FCS121780321 - Technical Service Bulletin 2003-21

 

I just had my 2000 Ex 7.3 in to Dealer today for the Cam Sensor recall and the mechanic told me that I needed to replace oil pan -- rusting. He said that Ford calls for engine removal but that it can be done by jacking up the engine off the mounts and sliding the pan out. He also said that the type of silicone used to seal the new pan is very important because it is difficult to make a good seal...he mentioned a "special" silicone that is designed to fill in gaps??? Anyone aware of what this is?

 

Here it is: 05-20-3***OIL PAN CORROSION - 7.3L OR 6.0L

The long and short of it is to sand it down (hit it with a drill and wire wheel if you have one) and coat it with POR 15. It's worked for many users for many years...

There was a recent thread detailing the process, but I can't seem to find it...

 

Here's that recent post!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...view-pics.html

Ya know, $800 seems low for a dealer to R&R an engine. Hell, the oil change and freon alone would cost well over $200 at most stealers! I'm guessing it took me 3-4hrs to pull my engine (by myself) and easily a few more putting it back in...

 

The answer is - not reliably. I have heard of this, but from what I gather it a crap shoot if the pan seals to block.

 

OK -- I decided to replace it -- NAPA gave me a price of $140 for the new pan -- Ford Dealer has the sealant -- it is now a new part # TA 31...a local shop will do it for a reasonable price -- depending on how much time it takes -- I'll let you know -- gotta be better than Ford Dealer price. I crawled under and looked at it -- and it's leaking pretty good -- bleeding out all of my new Rotella Sythethic (Oh S*** -- I just realized that I'm gonna have to drain it out and put in some new oil -- and I just changed it).

 

I'd even paint a new one with POR, if I were replacing mine. Treated my '02 the same week I bought it a few years ago, and it still looks like I just did the work. Way too much hassle and $$ to replace if not needed. A little scraping/wire wheel and paint prep and some time to paint it on and you've saved yourself a bunch of money that can be spent on other items for your truck.

 

Are these rusting from the outside in? I can't imagine rusting from the inside in the oil

 

Ford really needs to get it together when it comes to oil pans and diff .. covers rotting out... I own a f350 super duty dump and the truck is a work horse.. I love it for that but the oil pan is dripping and marking its spot everywhere I go! So here it is ...Hey ford get it together and find some quality metal!! You have had this problem for years now so don't act dumb!!! No more rotting oil pans!!!!

 

Ford has to stick their money into ipod docks, USB ports, and massaging seats, no extra money left over for good metal coatings or paint.


I have done many oil pans with engines still in vehicles. I have done 7.3's in OBS's. The engine has to sit for a day or two to let the oil run down to the pan. brake clean up into the motor a bit mainly the block sides. Slide new pan in, RTV, final wipe block and install.

The motor mounts do need to be disconnected and the motor jacked up. The oil pump/pickup need to be unbolted to get the pan out.

 

Snow seeker- what else needs to come off before jacking up the engine? Turbo? Etc.?

I've started staining the driveway, so getting time to fix my own pan.....

"The motor mounts do need to be disconnected and the motor jacked up. The oil pump/pickup need to be unbolted to get the pan out"

 

You can remove all but the rear cab bolts and jack the front of the cab several inches as you raise the engine.

I do not believe any amount of this will provide room to remove the oil pan from a Super Duty or Excursion - at least not while the transmission is in place. Pulling a 7.3 engine is not that difficult by comparison to all that hassle...

If you are stubborn enough to figure out how to do it 'the hard way' - please document it for the other knuckleheads out there!!

Consider using this instead of the TA31 sealant:

Moroso Ford 7.3 Powerstroke & International T444E Oil Pan Gasket - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS

 

Without removing the engine you will have leaks again, The Ford sealant needs to be applied to a dry surface and a cure time of 24 hours. The only way to do it on an Excursion is remove the motor. Mine was replaced in my Excursion and that's what the dealer did. the motor needs to sit up-side down to keep oil out of the sealant.

Pulling the motor has its benefits, now you have easy access to the oil cooler, Up pipes, valve covers etc. Now would be the time to take care of all that.