Hi,

I am new to this forum and I am also a new Ford Truck owner.
I recently purchased a 1995 Ford F150 4x4,w/4.9L, 5sp manual.
My problem is the oil pan is rusting thru and is leaking oil when
warm. I need to replace the pan and gasket.

My question is this, do I have to raise the engine to replace the
oil pan? It looks like I have plenty of room but I don't want to
get half way into the job and realize I can't get the pan out.

Has anyone actually replaced the oil pan on a 4.9L without
raising the motor? How long did the job take and what was the degree of difficulty.

Thanks in advance

 

Hi wingham and welcome to FTE

Yes you have to jack up the engine but that really isnt all that hard to do. Most people I've seen have used a botte jack from the front crossmember to the harmonic balancer to lift it. That's probably not the best idea but it does work.

Here is what the manual says for doing the job............
hmmm I just noticed that the manual seems to have a mistake there. It says when you're putting it back together to install the upper intake and the radiator but it doesnt say to remove them when you pull it apart.
It's been a long time since I've done one of these but i dont remember pulling the upper intake. If you do need the extra clearance though the upper intake isnt that hard to remove.


Removal

1. Drain the crankcase and the cooling system.

2. Raise the vehicle on a hoist. Disconnect the battery to starter relay cable (14300) at the starter motor (11002) and remove the attaching bolts and starter motor.

3. Remove the engine front support insulator-to-support bracket nuts and washers on both supports. Raise the front of the engine (6007) with a transmission jack and wood block and place 25.4mm (1-inch) thick wood blocks between the front engine support insulator (6038) and front engine support brackets (6028). Lower the engine and remove the transmission jack.

4. Remove the oil pan attaching bolts and lower the oil pan (6675) to the crossmember front frame.

5. Remove two bolts securing oil pump (6600) to cylinder block (6010). Remove nut securing oil pump screen cover and tube (6622) and drop into oil pan.

6. Remove oil pan and oil pan gasket (6710) from vehicle.

7. Remove oil pump from oil pan.

8. Remove oil pan gasket from cylinder block or oil pan.


Installation

1. Clean cylinder block and oil pan flanges.

2. Set oil pump and assembled oil pump screen cover and tube in oil pan.

3. Apply WSE-M4G323-A3 sealer to parting lines between rear main bearing cap and cylinder block, and between engine front cover (6019) and cylinder block.

4. Apply a suitable pressure-sensitive adhesive to cylinder block flange and oil pan gasket. Make sure oil pan gasket is positioned in rear main bearing cap groove and tucked into cap-to-block slot.

5. Position oil pan on crossmember front frame.

6. Raise oil pump into position and start bolts. Start oil pump screen, cover, and tube nut.

7. Tighten oil pump bolts to 17-24 N-m (12-18 lb-ft). Tighten oil pump screen, cover, and tube nut to 30-43 N-m (22-32 lb-ft).

8. Position oil pan on cylinder block flange.

9. Install four bolts in positions A as shown and hand-tighten.

10. Install the rest of the bolts and tighten to 20-23 N-m (15-17 lb-ft) except for bolt in position C. Tighten bolt in position C to 21-27 N-m (15-20 lb-ft).


11. Raise the engine with a transmission jack and remove the wood blocks from the front engine support brackets. Lower the engine until the front engine support insulators are positioned on the front engine support brackets. Install the washers and nuts on the insulator studs and tighten the nuts to 73-100 N-m (54-74 lb-ft).

12. Install the starter motor (11001) and connect the starter cable.

13. Lower the vehicle. Install the radiator (8005). Refer to «Section 03-03».

14. Install the upper intake manifold (9424) and throttle body (9E926).

15. Install the oil pan drain plug (6730). Fill the crankcase with oil specified in «Section 00-03». Fill cooling system as outlined in «Section 03-03».

16. Start the engine and check for coolant and oil leaks.

 

Wingam,

Welcome. You'll find lotsa good information here. I've done all three (4.9, 5.0, 5.8). They're all 2WD automatics, but there cannot be THAT much difference. The 4.9 liter was BY FAR the easiest. The 4.9 liter truck was a 1996. About 3.5 hours from start to finish.

I did lift the engine, and put the blocks under the mounts. I used an engine hoist, and lifted right from the supplied hook. I did NOT remove the upper intake. I did disconnect the rear transmission mount and kept a jack under the transmission so that I could jockey the engine angle a little bit. I did NOT remove the oil pump or pickup. I also did NOT remove the radiator, however I did let the shroud sit on the engine.

Good luck and remember this: The job isn't bad. Take your time, and all will be well.

Good luck,

Tim in Detroit
95 F150, sc, sb, 2wd., 5.8liter e4od

 

Thank you for your replies.

I think I will give it a try this weekend.

Will

 

OOPs IO thought that I was on a differant thread. If you have to do the pan then you will have to lift. But are you sure that it is rusted through or is it surface rust. If you see weeping I guess that would clinch it. Maybe you could have some one braze it. I no mine has some surface rust but not throught yet. I I just checked the Napa site again and they do list the multi piece gasket for the 4.9l. Cost 6.49. I had an 83 F150 with 4.9 and Auto. There is plenty of room in there. The problem is getting the pan down past the axle. You will see what I mean when you try to drop it. I replaced my gasket on my 5.0 25,000 miles ago with the multi piece and I have had no problem. Have plenty of knuckles for your ratchets available and lots of light. Use a little RTV just to hold it in place when you put it back up. Also reach down in the pan and feel around for any old gasket pieces. Not a bad job. Ramps and a creeper if youve got them will help too.

 

Hi All,

thanks for all the advice. I replaced the oil pan over the last few nights. All in all it took me probably 7-8 hours. Everything in these posts are all right on. Not to terribly difficult but it certainly is not a fun job. Hardest part I found was getting the pan gasket on and positioned and then try and get the sealer on both the block
and pan.

One neat trick I learned from the auto parts guy is to postion the gasket as best as you can and then tie a thread between the hole of the oil pan and the hole of the gasket in order to hold it in position. Once the pan is on you can cut the thread and pull it out. It save me alot of time and aggravation.

So far so good no oil leaks.

Thanks again

 

Thanks for letting us know how you made out

 

Just wanted to say Hello and Welcome Wingham...

 

Wingham, et al:
Great dialog on the oil pan replacement, and great timing for me. I just found this site yesterday as I was searching for advice on replacing the pan on my 94 5.0 4x4. Thanks for all the info, shop manual instructions, etc.
No one mentioned dropping the exhaust. Is that not necessary, because it looks like it will be in the way?
Also, you guys mentioned a multi-piece gasket. The one I'm picking up from the Ford dealer is a one piece, I assume like the original. Maybe the multi-piece is available when the whole pan isn't being replaced?
Anyway, unless anyone has any more last minute tips, I'm into this this weekend, and hopefully I can avoid the hassle of dropping the exhaust!
TJ

 

I was laying under my newly purchased truck and noticed rust bubbling up under the paint on my oil pan.

it's a 94 ford truck.

How in the world does this happen?

It's an oil pan I've never seen anything like it. My volvo pans were older than the hills, and didn't even have paint left on them, and they didn't rust like that.

Is it poor quality metal, or what's the deal?

I think if I ever have to do this, the new pan is definately getting POR 15ed...

I was afraid to actually scrape away the rust bubbles on my pan, for fear I'd cause a leak.

maybe at my next oil change I'll check into it.

Can you use metal epoxy to fix this sort of thing? clean the spot well and putty it up?

I've got low temp metal brazing rods. would that possibly work too?

 

The first time I ever saw a rusted oil pan on a 302 I really shook my head and could hardly believe it. Now I've seen and replaced enough of them that I really wonder about the paint and metal Ford used on them. The replacement pans seem much better. I havent seen a problem with any of them. Dont touch the rust until you're ready to try fixing it. Most of the time if you scrape it at all you'll make a leak. I've seen people braze patches over the rust and it did seem to work. Dont know how long for though. I've never seen anyone try epoxying it but it may work. Or maybe even fiberglass it.
The multipiece pan gaskets are just the older style. Ford has changed them up to the one piece rubber. Some people prefer the multipiece as it's easier to glue one piece at a time to the block. Normal gasket glue doesnt stick to the one piece gaskets. You have to use silicone to hold the gasket up in place. I think it's FelPro that makes little plastic pin type things that screw into 4 pan bolt holes in the block. They have a raised area on them that holds the gasket up in place. After you install the pan and the other bolts, you unscrew the pins and replace them with bolts. They work quite well.
If you are going to pull the pan the whole way out you do need to remove the exhaust.
Some people cheat when replacing the gasket and just lower the pan down, clean it as best they can, glue the new gaskets to the block and then install the pan. It's not a good way to do it but most of the time it works.

 

Racerguy, thanks for the exhaust info -- more fun!
Luke_trash, when I picked up my new pan at the Ford dealer I asked if they sell a lot of them. The guy chuckled and said "oh yeah!" I asked why, and he tried to blame it on Michigan winters, but I argued that I've never seen this on any other vehicles than Ford trucks of nineties vintage. Then he reminded me that the metal is thinner than it used to be, and sure enough, I lifted the new pan out of the box and couldn't believe how light it is!
As far as patching up your current one, I've had good luck with JB weld and repainting. I cleaned up the rust spots with steel wool and one spot started seeping through. I drained the pan and patched it with the JB Weld and it's held up great for 2 more years. I'm replacing it because the gasket is leaking badly now.

hey Racerguy, you mentioned adhesive for sticking the gasket to the block. The new gasket is a soft silicone material, and I wasn't sure what kind of adhesive to buy. I ended up getting some Permatex hi-tack spray sealant. Think that will work ok?
TJ

 

Yikes! Do they press these things outta tin foil or something?

I'm not familiar with this engine yet, but can't you basically use a pan from a 302 of older vintage or whatnot?

(or does Summit or any racing outlet sell thicker ones cheaper?)

Being from iowa, winter rust kills vehicles here too. but my truck is for the most part rust free. In fact, the only rust i've found is the oil pan.

 

The oil pan on my 95 with a 351 is rusted right through and it had to have started years ago to be that bad. I'm not sure where the truck came from because it's an "auction" truck but, this rust thing is pathetic. I've bought a new ford replacement pan and it has a couple chips in the black paint, it appears as though there is no primer under the finish coat. Also it is painted on the inside, what's up with that? Sounds like a good way for paint to contaminate the oil? I'll be repainting the outside to be sure it doesn't rust quite as quickly as the original. Any suggestions on the best way to refinish it?? Was thinking perhaps roughing up the black paint and then putting a good coat of appliance(refridgerator) paint on it. Heard that paint is tough as nails. Maybe an industrial epoxy would fit the bill?


PEAT-MOSS
1995 F250HD 4X4

 

I'd think POR15 is the way to go

www.por15.com

they sell a 'sample' kit that would most likely cover an entire oil pan.

Plus, they sell the 'silver' paint that supposedly fills metal holes, etc. And tubes of metal repair, that is impervious so fuels and solvents. Sounds like the company to get in touch with.



Anyone else think POR 15 would work well here?