My truck is a '68 F-100 Ranger 360 3 spd. There's a vertical crack in the driver's side exhaust manifold between the two middle cylinders. After running for a short time the cast iron expands enough to close it up. Will there be any harm in letting this go for a while. A new one will run me about $225 and a Saturday under the truck. DB

 

I have seen a few guys around here get their manifolds welded up by older welders with some experience in working with cast iron.If yours is not split in half yet,which it will if you leave it unattended,you might be able to have it done on the truck with proper safety precautions.If you have to remove it,start soaking the bolts about a week in advance,twice a day,and rap the head of the bolts with a ball pein every time.That will make the bolts unfreeze.It's almost impossible to remove a broken bolt while the head is still mounted,even with a right angle drill! For the time being,you could use that exhaust bandage If you can wrap it around the crack tightly and then put safety wire to keep it in position.
Phillip

 

I agree with the fix advice, but an easier and maybe better "fix" might be a used one. There are many around that are in good shape. I would only consider a new manifold if you have a "show" truck or intended on making it into a "show" vehicle.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (I need Factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
<a href="http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee">http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee</a>

 

I have stock cast iron manifols from '67 F-100 352, should fit yours . I'm in Madison, WI and would love to be rid of these and many other stock parts. Home # 608/273-0169

 

I just had to replace a manifold on my truck.

I used a breaker bar and a long black iron pipe (about 36") to gain leverage. The bolts came out easy. Oh course I did soak them for about one week with "Rust Buster".

and remember, there is no better wrench than a HEAT wrench.

Good Luck

 

 

Cast iron is a little tricky but still easy fix. I'd clean the crack by beveling a grove drill an 1/8 hole at the end of every crack. Use a nickel alloy fill metal albeit rod or wire. Then plan to pre heat it a little bit. Weld it in hot. Then post heat it. Or use a welding blanket to bring the heat down. That is what I'd do but just a little advice I'd throw out there to do as you may.good luck

 

Wow, responding to a 16 year old post, that is trickey in itself.



John

 

What's trickey is you haven't changed a bit, according to your avatar. LOL
I think this is one of the older ones someone has responded to. I think I saw one from 1998 not sure I'll have to look.

 

One only has one avatar image, change it and they all change.



John

 

I know John, Lol Nothing gets by you does it?

 

This has got to be a record of some kind! lol

 

Left exhaust manifold same: 1968/72 F100/350 360/390 - 1973/76 F250/350 360/390 - 1975/76 F100/150 360/390.

1965/67 F100/350 352 & 1973/74 F100 360/390's have a heat riser valve, the left exhaust manifold is specific to it.