Greetings fellow FTE'rs

I'm posting the following as a word of advice to all:

After reading the postings below I purchased the BD (Yes, I'm aware BD is an FTE sponsor. This is where I found out about this company but I didn't expect it's lack of customer service.) Bypass Tube Eliminator Kit for my '01 7.3, 4r100 trany. However, after numerous unanswered calls and messages left with BD's tech help I finally received this email today:

"unfortunately we do not have instructions for the Bypass kit as
it is fairly self explanatory how they are installed. Our transmission
dept feels if they appear difficult for you to install you may want to
have a transmission shop install them that is familiar with the system.

Check with Ken Imler Diesel service in Sacramento, he know how to
install them.

Have a great day.

Chris Oborne
BD Diesel Performance
Sales Director & Senior Technical Rep
1-800-887-5030
www.dieselperformance.com"

In other words, your on your own!!!

The, so called, Bypass Tube Eliminator Kit I received consisted of two (2) metal rings in a plastic bag listed as part numbers #1600035 & #1600034 on BD's website. That was all...no instructions, no diagram, no "line", and worst of all, no help!
The parts (#1600035 & #1600034) cost $10.50 each, plus shipping and handling.

I'm going to drop my pan, R&R my trany filter, fluid and upgrade the valve body with a Sonnax Valve Kit (it came complete with step by step instructions and diagrams). It doesn't require a PHD to perform those PM's and upgrades. So, I wanted to add the Bypass Tube Eliminator Kit while I'm in there. But BD doesn't want to help me find out how to install there kit because it could be "difficult for you to install". Why, because I requested some basic instructions. BD suggests that I seek professional installation at one of their approved listed businesses. Read on.



From previous FTE forum responses:

My question to:

Happy hauling Trannytech1
Pat Stewart Kit number 1600035 & 1600034 info?

Pat,
I'm getting ready to R&R my ATF (with Amsoil type) and filter @ 33K, no towing. With pan off I'm thinking I want the best available mods to increase the trany line-pressure and any other improvements. Also, you mentioned to Kyle, kit #1600035 and #1600034, to alleviate overheating. From your experience what else would you suggest I do at this time?

'01 Ford, 7.3 PSD, AT, 4x4, Lariat, K&N air filter.

His answer:

The best thing for you to do at this time is while you have the pan off install one of our recal accumulator bodies, this will quickin the shifts and benifit clutch wear.the bypass tube elliminator kit is a must on the 4r100! It is so cheep and will save you from overheat problems witch is an ever continuos tranny burning up headache.The deeper pan would also be a improvment,and a tc would not hurt. This is a good trans to have once you got the bugs worked out!

Technical Sales
800-887-5030
pat@bd-power.com

Posted by Pat@BD on 12-21-2004 22:51:

Kyle the kit number is 1600035 and 1600034. This is the line and the fittings. We have these in stock ready to go.
__________________
Pat Stewart
Technical Sales
800-887-5030
pat@bd-power.com



Now, has anyone installed this Bypass Tube Eliminator Kit in their 4R100? If so, could you please advise me how to do it? I just need to know where these little rings go and is there supposed to be some kind of "line" included with the kit? I have a complete set of Ford factory service and shop manuals including transmission and power train for the '01 F250. Would there be any diagrams or depictions of just where these two (2) rings might go. I'd kinda like to know, before, I drop the pan and get in there.


Regards,
reddhawk, out. '01 F250, 7.3 PSD, Lariat, 4X4, A/T, AIS, @47K.

 

man I've got nothing. And it does seem that they're doin' you wrong. If anybody else sells the kit you might want to try them out and return the stuff you got from these guys. Yeah it's a pain in the butt, but this is not a job you want to screw up. If you can find another guy to order it from, I'd suggest asking if instructions come b4 ordering. At the very least threaten to return the order and demand a refund if they won't give you some indication of how to use their product.

 

Amish77,

Thanks. Great advice.
I have researched this bypass tube on the 4R100 tranny. You can purchase a replacement tube if the OEM tube gets plugged. It resides on the right side of the tranny, externally and shunts (bypasses) fluid around the cooler lines before the fluid reaches operating temps. Just like the engine coolant pump has a bypass to allow the engine to reach operating temps rapidly when cold.
Now, these two metal fittings comprising this "Bypass Tube Eliminator Kit" take the place of the OEM bypass tube. It is completely removed. Then the atf flows thru the cooler lines thru the trans cooler all the time, cold or hot. The tranny cannot bypass the cooler if pressures are increased or decreased due to various mods.
This is my understanding.
Why BD Diesel Performance chooses to refer purchaser's of this kit to their "approved" installers instead of providing a paragraph or two of direction, is beyond me. However, in this day and age, superb customer service or the lack thereof, can make or break a business, especially thru forums such as this.

 

My question is why do you want get rid of the bypass tube? It's there for a reason and I would want to keep it on there. The big one is what would happen if the cooler get's plugged? All of a sudden, without the bypass tube, the tail of the transmission has no fluid going to it, and there's no fluid flowing through the transmission. No fluid will result in a burned up trans.

I actually asked Brian about the tube specifically when I was at BTS. He puts new ones on all of his transmissions for that exact reason, and won't put in a trans without one. The bypass tube will ensure that the trans always has fluid going through it, even if the cooler gets plugged.

According to the email you got from BD, it appears that the only reason to eliminate the bypass tube is heat. But that logic doesn't exactly hold up either. The trans is eventually going to heat up, just not as quickly if it was flowing through the cooler all the time. If trans temps are your main concern, I'd look into installing a larger cooler like a 6.0 trans cooler.

I would seriously reconsider eliminating the bypass tube. I would also steer clear of the deeper pan. If the fluid does get hot, it's going to be a lot harder to get all cooled back down since you've got a lot more fluid volume. Again, with an appropriate cooler, heat will not be an issue.

 

but if the bypass tube get's plugged then you've got the same problem. And I'm guessing that it has a smaller diameter than the cooler lines. The bypass tube violates the kiss principle, in that you now have an extra valve deciding when to give the tranny extra cooling. If this valve fails, you're fubar. Without it we're talking about tubing, which is much less likely to fail.

 

That's not how it works.

The bypass is pressure operated, not temperature. It's there to provide lube flow to the rear of the trans if the cooler is plugged. One way the cooler can get plugged is if the ATF gels, which happens well below 0°F. If the trans is above 0°F the bypass should never open.

It isn't too unusual for the valve in the bypass to fail. This allows fluid to bypass the cooler, so the trans runs hot. Sometimes VERY hot.

 

yeah that's what I was talking about. If the valve fails you're fubar.

 

Greeting fellow FTE'ers,

I've learned, thru further research, the main reason to remove the coolant bypass tube (BD Diesel Performance-Bypass Tube Eliminator Kit) in the 4R100 tranny. When mechanical mods or electronic reprogramming have been performed to increase the internal line pressure (making more positive shifting with less hunting, less heat and less slippage possible) this OEM bypass tube is designed to commence bypassing the cooler.
It is designed to:
1. Save the rear of the tranny from lack of fluid when the cooler or cooler lines are plugged.
2. Decrease the warmup time for the ATF when it is below normal operating temps.
The relief valve is set at a fixed pressure and therefore needs to be eliminated to prevent bypassing the cooler when OEM line pressure has been increased thru aftermarket adjustment. Also, this bypass tube valve can fail frequently in this tranny and heat damage happens before other symptoms can be seen or felt.
So, if you have increased the tranny line pressure thru any means it could lead to overheating due to this bypass valve just doing its job as it was designed to do.
That is my understanding up to this point.
Also, let me just say that this FTE forum is the best resource I've found to increase our knowledge and keep our operating cost down. My thanks to all for your concern and input.

 

ok here is how this kit works from all i have read in this thead. i hope this is right since i haven't seen the kit. the tube is attached to the trans via 2 banjo bolt style fittings that the cooler lines thread into. i am guessing that the pieces that you got from bd are like a small piece of pipe the same thinkness as the bypass tube ends. these pipes just get bolting in place of the bypass tube with the factory washer that seal the bypass tube. so they install the same as the tube except they have no tube that connects them

 

tjbegs,

Yes sir, your description is the way I understand the kit and how it fits. I received two fittings that fill the space where the each of the two banjo fittings would be fastened. They bolt to the tranny in place of the banjo fittings at each end of the bypass tube. This eliminates the complete bypass tube and it's pressure regulator feature. ATF will not be prevented from passing thru the cooler due to higher pressure, either from cold fluid or more pressure to secure better clutch action. The only caveat is the possibility of a clogged cooler or cooler line forcing an overheat condition. Monitoring the trans tempts with an external gauge and replacing your add-on external ATF filter, when needed, will help to prevent damage due to overheating.

 

Hmmmm...........
I thought the transmission cooler was downstream of all that. Is it not after the outlet of the torque converter, well downstream of all pressurized ATF and is simply under enough pressure to flow through the cooler and then get dumped back into the pan via the tailshaft so it get's lubed? Or is it in between the pump and the transmission - meaning that the ATF is picked up by the pump, routed through the cooler, then sent to the transmission.

And besides, if Brian at BTS won't install a transmission without a bypass tube, it pretty much goes without saying that it stays on my truck as well. (If it had an automatic. )