Hi all,

I'm about to join the many that have done the up grade to disc and
power brakes on their trucks.
I have a '68 F 250 that I'm changing to a half ton.
I have most of my parts for my brake conversion for the front using parts
from a '76 f 100/150.
I need to know if I need to get the steering linkage to match the '76 or stay with the '68 linkage? I'm replacing the linkage since it's worn out.
Also, when doing the booster upgrade can I use my existing pedal set up or will I need to upgrade it to the '76 parts as well?
Any help will be much appreciated.
Thanks.

Hawkeye

 

To upgrade to disc, you need the booster and master cyl. assem., and also the proporsioning valve. The M/S on a front drum vehc. has a check valve in the front outlet and will not work on discs.:+

 

From reading posts on here I've seen that the later brake pedals sit lower to the floor making it easier to slide your foot directly from the gas pedal onto the brake pedal. I have never done this and this knowledge comes from reading posts on this site so forgive me if I am wrong.

Russell
1968 F250 LWB 300-6

FORD=First on Race Day
THE 2003 LINEUP
#88 Dale Jarrett-UPS-Robert Yates Racing
#38 Elliott Sadler-M&M's-Robert Yates Racing
#97 Kurt Busch-Sharpie/Rubbermaid-Rousch Racing

 

You're right Russell but it's only the F100/150 with power brakes that has the low brake pedal height.

Barry

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 01-14-03 AT 02:44 PM (EST)]True! The reason is brake pedal ratio. Less pedal pressure is needed to apply power assisted brakes. The distance from the pivot on the hangar bracket to the booster rod mount hole is longer on power brake pedals. The spool in the MC is larger as well. You can use the power brake arm with wider pedal on the older hangars. Kind of a mix and match deal. Make sure the excentric bolt is set to the lowest position before you measure where to cut the rod. Then you can raise the pedal a bit if need be. Change the stering linkage and tie rod ends. I also recommend coring the steering gear, MC, calipers. Buy new steel lines and hoses. The stuff from the 76 will work if it is in perfect condition and the old lines will make a nice pattern to follow for making the new lines.
William in Atlanta

 

Let me get this straight William.
So the existing pedal has to go.
I can use the '76 pedal on my stock hanger?
I'll have to cut the rod on the '76 Booster?
For what? To lengthen it?
No where in the famous tech. article from this site
(which inspired me to do this project)
does the author mention having to change out or do mods to the brake pedal or rod on the booster.

I converted over to power steering some time ago.
But, wasn't aware of the brake conversion until a few months ago reading
the article here. I have the new calipers, rubber brake lines, king pin set (metal bushings). I wasn't going to run complete metal brake lines but it might be best to do so.
So I guess I'll be going to out to get the pedal from the '76.

Hawkeye

 

You don't have to change the pedal to mount the new booster and stuff but the original pedal height is uncomfortably high. That's what I'm using right now and I'll make the switch when it gets warm enough to go get the right parts. We're sitting at about five below zero right now here in central Alberta. You can use either the 68 linkage or the 76. They don't mix.

mike

 

Regarding your question on using the 1976 steering linkage:
When I converted my 67 F100 to disc brakes I had to use the later center link tie rod (the one connected to the passenger side). It's about 1 inch longer.

It may be unique only to the 67 because I'm the only one I've come across who had to change to the later center link. It took me awhile along with help from this site to figure out why my left hand turning radius was lessened after installing the disc system. With the front tires pointed straight ahead I had only 1 3/4 turns of the steering wheel to the left and 2 1/4 turns to the right. Seems the cause is that the disc spindle tie rod mounting holes are about 1 inch farther apart than the stock 67 mounting holes. Anyway, the 1976 F150 center link did the trick.

 

Thank you guys for answering.
So, newer pedal or not is there going to be a mod to the booster rod?
I'm not sure which would be easier the rod or the '76 pedal.
My '68 had a standard trans. and few years ago I put in a C6.
I just cut the clutch pedal off and shoved the nub back against the firewall. (can't see it, so it won't hurt anyone )
But changing the brake pedal doesn't look like too much fun to me. maybe it's easier than I think.
As for the steering linkage I'll be opting for the '76 parts since that sounds like it would prevent issues.

One other question once I finish this I will have f 100 disc brakes
on front and drum on the rear. I have changed out my dana 60 rear end for a Ford 9 inch, hence the half ton rear drum brakes.
I am shopping for new wheels for the truck. I was asked what offset
I will need. I don't know the answer for that. I would think it is different from the f250 since I have changed it to the half ton.
Can some one fill me in on this?
Thanks again.

Hawkeye

 

 

You can use the existing pedal by drilling a new hole for the eccentric bolt, 1 inch lower on the pedal arm. The clutch spring may cause a problem. I just do automatics and always toss the brackets for the clutch and replace them with automatic brackets. You will need to find a pedal hangar for a 68 automatic and then the 76 pedal will work for sure. I also always use the 9 inch Ford booster and dual chamber MC with 1 inch spool. I like the MC with left exit lines, looks much neater when finished. I also only use the Ford truck booster mount, looks like a step linkage and has a flat bar connecting to the brake pedal. I shorten the length of the bar by cutting off the mount hole, smooth the end on a grinder and drill a new hole for the eccentric. Overall the bar is about 1 inch shorter. You should measure your truck, you may not need to shorten the bar at all. Remember what I said earlier about the firewall boot...you will need one. I yank the column, pedal bracket, boots and seals, clean, inspect, paint, lube and reassemble with new soft parts ans switches. Do it once, do it right and run the heck out of it.
William in Atlanta

 

I changed my '68 over to discs, in 1976. It was originaly a standard shift, & I also cut off the clutch lever, and have used the original brake lever since. In 1980 I set my cab & bed on a '79 4x4 chassis, (brake pedal & all), & have had no problems in stopping power. This truck weighs 6600 lbs.!

 

Well I went out to the bone yards and found the '76 Brake pedal, Hanger Bracket, and Booster Bracket.
All of the parts look like the will bolt right in.
The Booster Bracket was the most interesting of all. I had thought the booster rod was a straight shot to the pedal arm. I didn't realize it uses the odd link between the two. But, it looks like it will actually simplify matters for me. So, once I have all the parts cleaned up and painted I will do the install.
Thanks again to you all for your insights and ideas on how to use either the original or upgrade to the '76 pedal setup. You all helped.

Hawkeye

 

I just finished converting my 67 to disc brakes. I used the spindles and I-beams from a 79 and bought all new hardware. I purchased all the tie rods and center link for a 79 ford and everything fit perfectly. I spent $525 on the whole cost of the upgrade.