When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Installing the Scarebird front disc conversion kit on my '68 F100 2wd. Truck has 32x12.50x15 BFG's and looking for more stopping power, thus the need for front disc brakes.
What master and booster should I get. Hoping not to have to run new lines to master if at all possible.
Currently have "power" drums on truck.
I went through the same phase on my '69 F100 of going from manual 4-wheel drums, to power 4-wheel drums, to power brakes with front discs --although, I used the front disc brakes/suspension assembly from a '77 F100.
When I initially installed the brake booster ('75 F350 dual diaphragm), I just stretched the original manual brake MC lines to connect with the new 'conventional' cast iron MC, complete with an ugly line-to-port adapter at the MC. The lines looked like hammered dammit but, I knew I would be changing out the front drums at a future date for discs and that I would be replacing the cast iron MC with a 'modern' brake MC and running new hard lines to it.
'75 F350 booster and the conventional cast iron MC when my truck still had drums all the way around --seen here with its god-awful ugly brake lines.
After I had changed to front discs and added a 'modern' MC ('95 Ford Explorer) and the much nicer lines I fabricated for its installation with direct connection fittings at the MC with no ugly port adapters.
If i purchase a F250 Cast iron MC (new) 1-1/16" bore , O'Reilly part number NMC1676 or recommend something else?
And dual diaphragm booster 54-73112.
Any thing else I need? Proportional valve?
Pretty straight bolt on or other mods needed?
Thank you, just trying to get things right.
The MC should be fine, if you're wanting to stay with a cast iron MC. If it's the one I think it is, the ports are on the right side of the MC. The booster p/n you listed is the same as what I'm running in my F100.
You'll need a disc/drum brake valve. I'm not aware of anyone reproducing a brake valve for Ford trucks but, the aftermarket GM reproduction valve is similar to the same style OEM valve that was produced for Ford trucks. One major difference is the pressure differential valve warning switch. It only has a one wire connection instead of two, like a '68-up Ford brake valve switch would have.
UltraRanger,
I see that A1 Cardone Remanufactured Brake Master Cylinders AAZ-10-1676 & AAZ-13-1676 (Summit Racing, 13-1676 being a new MC) don't come with pushrods. What do I do for a pushrod? Mod OE or just install? Find it interesting that a new MC is less expensive than remanufactured. ???
I also see a local company, less than 3 miles from me, offers complete master/booster units. I'm sure they'll be overly expensive, but need to weigh all the options. ABS Power Brake, Inc.
I always recommend new, not rebuilt, MCs. Aftermarket boosters generally just don't perform as well as an OEM Bendix booster.
The only time a MC would need an input rod is if the MC is for a manual brake setup. A power brake booster has a built-in input and output rod.
I also prefer to buy parts at my local parts stores in lieu of mail order. If the part arrives defective, it's much easier to take it back to a local parts store for exchange than to have to box it up, send it back and wait for the replacement to arrive. --same is true if it's a lifetime warranty part that wears out, as far as exchanges go.
Hey Steve. I also am planing on doing a Modern MC. Which takes metric male flared tubes rather than American female tubes as you know. My question is if I do this and buy metric brake lines at a local parts store to fit the MC, can I American flare and install American fittings on the Proportioning valve end to mount to it? AKA, will American fittings fit on Metric steel brake lines?
Hey Steve. I also am planing on doing a Modern MC. Which takes metric male flared tubes rather than American female tubes as you know. My question is if I do this and buy metric brake lines at a local parts store to fit the MC, can I American flare and install American fittings on the Proportioning valve end to mount to it? AKA, will American fittings fit on Metric steel brake lines?
Yes. Metric 4.75mm brake tubing is the same diameter as 3/16" brake tubing. You'll need to slide the M10 x 1.0 bubble flare fittings off one of the tubing pieces and then replace it with an M12 x 1.0 bubble flare fitting for the secondary port of the MC. --M10 x1.0 is the standard size fitting for 4.75mm tubing. The M12 x 1.0 fitting will have to be a specialty fitting (hole in the center of the M12 fitting needs to be smaller to fit the 4.75mm/ 3/16" tubing).
On the end that was cut, you'll need to slide on an SAE double flare fitting and then double flare that end of the tube to go to the brake valve.
For the other piece of tubing that will be going to the primary port of the MC, it will already have the M10 x 1.0 bubble flare fitting. Cut the bubble flare off the other end, remove one of the M10 x1.0 fittings, slide on the SAE double flare fitting and then double flare that end.
I used 60" lengths of 3/16" brake tubing when I made my lines and I just installed the metric and SAE fittings onto it and double flared or bubble flared where appropriate.
Got my new MC/Booster & proportion valve installed, went with #9767 from ABS Power Brake (local company). Used Maxima Dot 4 fluid. All I can say is INSANE!
Between the the ABS unit and the Scarebird install (also used custom braided lines to calipers) these brakes are firm and on point.
Hope to get some pics up soon
02-26-2016, 05:16 PM
