Well I have almost the entire cab stripped of its four coats of paint and primer. Having a little problem removing the original primer coat. I have used 3 different types of stripper and the only one that seems to attack it it the Air Craft remover. I'm not sure what to do after that. Should I just shoot it with a good primer or is there something else to put on the bare metal before the primer, Epoxy primer? I really dont know much about that stuff. Any help would be great.

Thanks,

Matt

 

You need to seriously make sure all the stripper is gone. If you do not, it will mess up the paint later. I have been told to use a product called picklex-20 on the bare metal if its sat for a few days. If its fresh, just use epoxy primer.

Here is a thread I started on another board about my project. Some professional painters replied.

http://autobodystore.com/forum/showthread.php?t=252

I know there is a body and paint forum here, but I was not finding what I was looking for in it. Hope this helps.

 

Thanks Brian!

I have been using mineral spirits after each section of the cab I strip. I do have a bit more work to do then will shot epoxy on the truck. I read the thread you referred me to and it explained some things I hadn't thought about. Question? once I have strip and expoxy primered the cab, if there is a dent that needs filler, does the expoxy primer have to be sanded off that area or do I fill over the expoxy primer? I haven't done much body work.

Thanks,

Matt

 

I am a long way from an expert. I have done body and paint in the past, but it has changed a lot. From my reading (again, I have not done this), you need to strip the epoxy and use the filler. Then use high build primer. That seems to be the latest.

Some say you do not need to, but the majority seem to think so. I can say (without a doubt in my mind) that evercoat is the best filler and putty to use. I prefer evercoat rage gold and evercoat polyester glazing putty. I absolutely hate bondo brand anything. It has talc and shrinks.

Those are not for filling holes or course. I would recomend welding patch panels in there. For smaller things you can use a filler with fiberglass in it commonly referred to as "kitty hair".

I am by no means saying to buy anything from these people, but there is a lot of good info on this page about the fillers.

http://www.autobodystore.com/FillerMatls.htm

Go to their classroom section to learn how to do a lot of things the right way. I read some more on there almost every day.

Hope some of this helps a little,
Brian

 

Thank you very much for you help. I'm checking out that web site right now.



Thanks,

Matt

 

racoon -

I recently read a thread on H.A.M.B. that talked specifically about fillers called "Bondo 101". It was great. They talked about how fillers actually chemically bond to bare metal, but only can mechanically adhere to epoxy primer. The fillers are polyesther based and have no chemical affinity to epoxies. Filler on bare metal is highly recommended.

Also, (BTW) epoxy primers are very good, but not as completely weatherproof as paints for long term storage. Metal can rust through epoxies, if subjected to much weather.

 

The one trick I use when using paint stripper is to mask off all of the seams and other places the stripper can hide in. After I have cleaned off all of the stripper I peal the tape off and use either a sanding disc or wire wheel to get the remaining paint off. It saves a lot of heart ache from the stripper sneaking out after appling primer or final coat of paint.

 

Yes, the seams etc are the real problem areas, washing over them will not remove the stripper and/or the softened paint. You need to use a neutralizer, not just a solvent and force it into all the hidey places with pressure (a squirt oil can works well) and a brush like a stiff toothbrush or acid brush scrubbing like you would if your grandmother (the mean one!) was going to check your fingernails. Otherwise the first time the truck sits in the sun after it's painted that goo will come creeping out and all the clearasil in the world won't make the pimples go away! After neutralizing, blow out all the seams with dry high pressure air. If anything but clean neutralizer or after wash comes out, do it all over again! IT'S THAT CRITICAL! If you aren't going to prime the bare metal the same day you strip it, pick up some phosphate wash and follow the directions to minimize surface rust until you do paint it. NEVER handle bare metal with your bare hands, use clean cotton or rubber gloves, and even sitting overnite unprotected means another going over with a surface prep pad just before painting. The difference between a high quality paint job that lasts and a cheap job is not the paint, it's the prep work done before the paint goes on. IMHO an epoxy primer is the choice, it's bonds better and is more moisture resistant than standard or etching primers you just need a light coat at this point. I'd never do body work, either metal straightening or filling with paint on the metal. When you are ready to work on a panel, sand the primer away with 80 grit paper where you need to work at have at it. If you have used a light coat it won't be too bad to sand off and won't require elaborate feathering before repriming. I too prefer Rage gold filler and catalized surfacer putty. Here's a good tip: sand your filler and block your surfaces by sanding on opposite diagonals across the panel rather than lengthwise to avoid ripples and ridges. Always use the longest sanding block you can, and never sand by wrapping the paper around your fingers or hand.