Hey guys, need some pointers. First time trying to paint my truck. I'm not going for show room shine here, but a all around pretty good paint job aka "for a first timer/amatuer not too shabby".

I have 78' F-150 that I've finally got to the point of body work/paint but I need some help here.

What I have is this: Cab, doors, and hood I sanded down to the original primer. The bed I have sanded down to pretty much all the way to the metal same with the fenders. The bed came off another truck if your wondering! The tail gate is an aftermarket special from J.C. Whitney. My questions are this:

1) The bed. I have a etching primer for the bed. Once I apply this, do I need to sand it at all before applying my Acrylic Primer surfacer?

2) I used bondo, and a fiber glass filler for the dents in the bed, will the etching primer ruin it? Should I try to cover the fillers before spraying my etching primer?

3) After market tailgate. It came with what looks like a black paint on it. Is this their etching primer applied? Should I sand it off? Or should I leave it on there and just apply my Acrylic Primer surfacer?

4) I got a LUND sunvisor for my truck, should I just apply my Acrylic Primer surfacer to this and sand it?

5) Wet sanding. I have read people doing this with just a little soap and water with 400 grit wet/dry sand paper. But when should you do this?

My thoughts are this right now:

1) Shoot my bed with the etching primer.
2) Sand the etching primer down just a bit with 180 grit. dry.
3) Shoot on a coat of my Acrylic Primer surfacer on the bed, cab, doors....
4) Do my guide coat with some old rattle can spray paint.
5) Sand this down with 400 grit dry.
6) Wipe everything down with a wax/oil/grease remover before paint.

I have fish eye preventer to add to my Acrylic Primer surfacer. And everything I got I got from NAPA, its the Martin Senour brand. Just thought I would add that, more info is better then not enough! I'm sure I am missing some things, or how something could be a little bit better. Any pointers or advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks guys!

Rompin

 

My .02

Try to keep the etch primer on bare metal only. It won't hurt if some overspray gets on filler or old paint, but I'd try not to build much etch primer on anything but bare metal. Check the label directions (or your napa jobber) for recoat times with the etch primer. If you recoat the same day, I don't think resanding is necessary.

DON'T put etch primer on the tailgate. The black primer from the factory is ready for your surfacer, or a sealer.

On the sunvisor, like the tailgate, if it's free of factory runs or imperfections, I'd just wet sand it with 400 grit (or red scotch brite) and seal with a non sanding sealer, then paint your color.

I never tried wet sanding with soap. When wet sanding with a block, I can see how it may keep the block from sticking to a flat surface, like it does when using plain water. Others here disagree with the practice, but I often wet sand with plain 400 (no sanding block) Just move my hand sideways so my fingers don't cut grooves - works great for me when just scuffing (not surfacing) When folded over in thirds, IMO it's thick enough not to cut grooves.

Use 400 grit as a final sanding, just before a non sanding sealer and paint.

There is more than one type of wax - oil - grease remover. Strong ones are good for preping old paint, but will attack fresh acrylic surfacer. Use only a weaker one for a final washdown before paint.

Do everything you can think of to keep dirt specs out. Blow out cracks numerous times, wet down the floor, use tack rags, wear a disposable paper coverall if you can find one. Clothes are loaded with lint!!

 

It sounds like you are on the right track because you
are asking the correct questions..here are my thoughts:

Etching primer is not normally sanded..your primer surfacer
build will defeat most everything from about a 120
scratch imperfection on up.

Etching primer is not used over bondo as it is
not needed..don't think it would hort bondo though.

Make sure your guide coat is not chemically
incompattable with your previous product.

Wet sanding is just another form of plain sanding..
no better no worse with the exception that
a little water and squirt of soap makes the
effective grit size go up 100 points they say.
Some collision shops will not wet sand because
it makes a mess.

Wash with detergent then wax and grease remover with
lintless towels if you can get them, then tack rag before
you shoot.

Double check whether you want fisheye preventer in your
surfacer.

Remember your top coat will not hide any prep defects
it will magnify them.

Good Luck!

 

I would use a good two part epoxy primer on the bare metal bed. You shouldn't need any fisheye eliminator with the primer if you have done a half way decent job of cleaning the metal and paint. Be sure not to wipe on grease and wax remover with anything you think might contain silicones or has been through the laundry. I have been burned by towels that went through the household laundry. With the entire surface primed you certainly won't need FE on the top coats.

 

Thanks for the responses! You guys have certainly put my mind at ease! It sounds now like I am just ready to take my time and get it done.

The guy at NAPA said kind of the same things you guys are saying about the fish eye remover. It was kind of like he didn't want to sell it to me. He said it was nice to have as extra insurance but not necessary. Is it that hard to use? Or can it cause any problems? I figured for a 1st timer you would want any advantage you can get.

Fordpilot, any recomendations on what type of detergent I should use? Are you just talking about plain old liquid dish soap? Or am I way of on this?

Thanks again guys!!!

Rompin

 

Liquid detergent in a squeeze bottle of some kind
is what people seem to use..no biggy. I prefer
no soap most of the time. Maybe someone
knows the definitive answer.

BTW I like Martin Senour paint. If you are using
Crossfire..kinda of new please post how you come out.

Last time I checked MS had a pretty good web
site with a lot of tech sheet and user stuff.

Good Luck!

 

<cr>
You're getting great advise. Use fisheye eliminator [u]only[/] if nothing else has works.

For sanding preprep I ....

A good squirt of dishwashing soap (Dawn is a great grease killer) in a bucket of water. Scrub and raise. Remember, your're going to a paint booth, not a car show, so you can really attack it.

Spray on some grease/wax remover and wipe off with paper towels. The trick is to lift off the grease off, not rub it around, so make sure you are always using a clean towel to wipe.

All of this is done before you sand. You don't want to be sanding grease into the subtrate.

Epoxy is the best base you can put down.

 

Thanks fordpilot! yeah it is the Martin Senour crossfire. I will let you know how it turns out! thanks guys!

rompin

 

Hey guys haven't forgotten about all your help. Just an update. My air compressor took a dump a week after first posting this. To make a long story short, I just got a new one 2 days ago. Still have 1 side left to finish sanding and filling with body filler. I am hoping to finish that today. I should be ready to apply my primer in the next couple of weeks if the weather holds out! One I get it primered I will post some photos of before and after! thanks again for all your help!!

Rompin

 

Just an update for you fordpilot! I've never primered a truck before or a car for that matter, but using the Martin Senour crossfire to me I guess went on alright however I had to thin it more then what the directions said. Other wise I was happy with the results. I have in the paint shop right now! I should get it back next weekend! I will get some digital pictures of it and post them on here! Thanks for everyones advice again!

Rompin