I need to replace drivers side exhaust maniflod. My question is do I track down the part or is better to just replace them both with headers.

Everything is original on truck but I have no issuses with changing things.

Also what are my odds getting these guys off with out breaking a bolt, and if any body no some recipe to getting them off I would appreciate it.

 

I'm guessing that you're dealing with an FE motor so here is my experience. I just recently had the dual exhaust replaced on my '65 F250 and the installer got a little strong-armed with the wrench on the drivers side manifold to header pipe bolts in an attempt to close up a gap where the donut seats. Well, a crack developed and within a week, the casting snapped in two and left a 1/4" gap for the spent gasses to flow out of. Man, that got noisy in a hurry. So getting to your question, I went to a local wrecking yard and sorted through a huge pile of manifolds but could not find the correct one. It seems that the '65-'67 or so use a manifold on the left side that does not have a chamfer for the donut because there is a heat riser casting that is sandwiched between the manifold and the header pipe. I ended up getting one from a '68 (C8) with a guarantee that if it didn't work, I could get my purchase price back. I paid $50 bucks for it and had to swallow hard to part with that kind of cash but I was in a fix and needed to get it back on the road. Decent headers are not cheap either and there can be issues with starter removal with some of them, so I've heard. Patience is the key to removing the manifold to head bolts. Start by using a good penetrating oil like Rust-Buster or Knock-er-Loose, WD-40 is my last choice. Let it set for a while - over night is good if you can wait - then be gentle but firm and see if they will move. Trying to tighten them slightly at first may help. I have removed upwards of twenty of these manifolds and have only broken one bolt that I can remember and believe me you will remember if you break one. Good Luck, Steve

 

Well in order to try not to break them off soak them really good with some kind of penitrating oil. If they break the only way to get them out is to drill them out. as far as straight replacing them with stock manifolds if thats what you like go with it. I like the headers on my truck. It improved my horse power and help a little with gas mileage, and it made it louder. So its up to you as to what you like but I prefer the headers.

 

use plenty of penetrating oil and let set as long as possible.Work the bolts back and forth tightening and loosening add more penetrating oil if u think they are going to ring off anyway use the torch and heat them.I have had luck with this as alast resort.i have removed some without doing anything but on the fe engine that is rare.good luck and use patience.

 

when u get the manifold off ckeck the gasket surface with a straight edge to see if it is flat.If not get it machined.I have used abelt sander for this but amachine shop can do this fairly cheep.

 

If you are willing to get the manifold pipe connection altered, you could use a manifold from a newer truck. I have one for a 360 for that side I'd be happy to part with. No heat riser, so it won't be a direct replacement for the stock one.

Headers are a love or hate thing. First, they aren't cheap. Second, they make starter removal a PITA, and since they tend to put the heat a lot closer to the starter, you can plan on replacing it sooner. Third, they don't last forever, and may rust out while you own it unless you coat them (more $$$). Lastly, I don't think I've ever come across a set of headers that didn't leak somewhere, requiring eternal bolt tightening and gasket replacement.

This is why I still have the stock manifolds.

 

thanks for all the replys, i did fail to mention that i had a 352 which i am sure most of you new. anyways i am pretty new at this at least this truck wise. also a few mention starter removal on headers. do you meen that the starter must be removed for installation of headers or is there a bigger starter issue with the headers?

 

On some headres they lay pretty close to the stater to were if the stater has to be replaced then you have to remove the header. Mine were made so that I do not have to remove the header to get the stater out. And mine have been on my truck for the past 20yrs. They have never leaked and they have never come loose. It all depends on how you put them on weather they will seal or not. Just make sure both sufaces are clean and flat. To get a good seal.

 

With a 2wd the headers will not go in wit the starter inplace, and the starter will not go inplace with the headers in. They both have to go in the truck at the same time. And use a shield heat aroud the starter.

 

I redid my system on my 65 last yr...from manifolds back....best money I ever parted with....I did try to get them off myself, but the bolts were rather fond of where they were....nice and tight....I did get one loose....up front of course, but I ended up farming the work out....glad I did....as far as manifolds...they can be found easily...I thought I had gotten a NOS one from greene's....paid for it plus air freight as my truck was apart on the rack at the point....A...it wasnt NOS....was a D3 part number....plus it was a reman unit as it had the manifold paint on it that ya get from Eastwood...and lastly it had obvious signs of use inside as all the carbon wasnt cleaned out....so....buyer beware...but I ended up getting a pair local for 70 with plenty of meat that had never been resurfaced and looked good as it was...the LH one was a car unit, so the heat riser valve was done away with....but the actual wrenching...I was told by my mechanic...all broke loose easily with impact....but I had given them quite a bath in liquid wrench and every other rust eater....I would go to a shop myself as if you break a blt...or God forbid, an upper ear.....your up the proverbial creek with in this case what would be a broken paddle....a broken ear is a scrap head....and if a shop breaks one...its theiir headache...not mine....


- cs65