Tonight I pulled the radiator and I want to pull the water pump to renovate the cooling system. I finally found out the reason my truck is overheating is that the lower 3/4 of my raditor is plugged solid with crap.

Anyway, I got all but one bolt out for my water pump. There is a smooth stud/bolt that is holding the water pump on, and the power steering/AC assembly is in the way. How do I get at the bolt to get the water pump off without breaking anything? I really don't want to move the AC/PS stuff because I hate bending the hoses for either.. I also hate having to unhook the wiring harnesses if I don't have to.

ANy tips or advice for me? Here's a link to a photo that shows what stud I'm talking about:

Picture of the water pump and the assembly

 

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but,that bracket has to come off.besides,even if you could get it out without taking the bracket off,the area behind the bracket has to be cleaned real good,so you would need it off anyway.just take your time and gently move the compressor off to the side,then move the bracket off to the side.And make sure that after you clean all of the old gasket off of the mating surface,that you clean the surface with brake cleaner.Then I spray hi-tack on the gasket.

 

Is it best to wire it up and suspend it in the air so the AC and PS lines don't kink or get stressed? I noticed that my shorter PS pump hose is lose at the fitting to the pump tonight.. I was amazed it was not leaking.. I'm not sure if it will tighten up either.. I'm going to try to replace all those hoses for the cooing system (all the little annoying ones that run to the throttle body and into the pump, etc...)

Anyway, I was feeling around, and yes, there is a NUT attached to that stud behind everything. So the assembly has to unmount and at least swing to the side a couple inches to get in there.

I was planning on RTVing the gaskets onto the pump overnight and letting it dry, and then using RTV on the mating surface. Is that recommended, or is it a no-no?

 

Ok,first,yes I use a coat hanger or mechanics wire to hold up the weight of the compressor.I remove the compressor from the bracket because it weighs less while wresting with it.Second,no,do not put rtv on the gasket and let it set up over night.Some guys do use rtv but they assemble it right away.I use Hi-tack spray adhesive.It puts a more even amount on the gasket.And that hose on your p/s pump is the hi pressure line,it has an o-ring type seal and can move around a little,so dont worry about it if is not leaking,And the reason you dont RTV the gasket to the pump and let it sit over night is because you will probably lay an uneven amount of RTV on it,and if it hardens before you mount it,you could crack or break the water pump when you bolt it on

 

I wouldn't reccomend it. Thin coats of rtv on both sides work for me, but I would assemble it all within 5 minutes or so and torque it all up. Let it set up that way.

Brian

 

Ok, yeah, definitely makes sense.. I had planned on thin coat "gluing" it to the gasket, but I have never had a leak when doing a job on the spot. It just always worries me.. especially in this case, where everything is a PITA to remove if it does leak.

What is the proper torque on the water pump bolts? half of them are these goofy bolt/studs. Some of them are threaded too, as if you could attach an accessory to them or something.

 

One other thing, the fitting on the power steering pump is supposed to be loose, so the line can swivel. If it is not leaking don't tighten it or it will leak. If you loosen it you will need to get another nylon washer or it will leak. Good Luck

 

[QUOTEWhat is the proper torque on the water pump bolts? half of them are these goofy bolt/studs. Some of them are threaded too, as if you could attach an accessory to them or something.[/QUOTE]

There is a torque spec for these pumps, as there is for everything else, but I don't know what it is. I've never tightened them with a torque wrench, but snug is really all you need. It's easy and probably ok to go a bit too tight, though. Just that it doesn't need to be. Plus, that "snap" sound will put a damper in your day.

Brian

 

The thing has so many mounting bolts, and the mounting surface is so flimsy, which is why I was wondering.

For future reference, it's 15 foot pounds. As are the 4 fan bolts.

I replaced the radiator, water pump, tps, cap and rotor tonight. My pickup actually runs cold now. It heats up to normal, the thermostat opens, and the newly frigid water flows in and the temp falls off dramatically. This new radiator probably has 10x the cooling efficiency of my old one.

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ANYWAY, upon reassembly and warming up the truck, I noticed that I now leak transmission fluid out of the two brass fittings to the tranny cooler. How tight can you turn these to seal things up? I don't want to strip them out. I have them turned to about 20 ft/lb, which is most likely higher than what they should be.

Can I put teflon tape around the threads like water pipes and seal them up??

I'm not leaking at the metal fittings, but the brass ones that thread into the radiator:



As you can see, this is a shot looking down the radiator. I stuffed a paper towel down there during my 15 minute drive and that's how much fluid I leaked out onto it.

 

You definitely can and should use some teflon tape or liquid teflon on those threads. I had the same issue when I installed my aux. tranny coolier lines. I taped up the fittings and not a drop has leaked out since. You are right about not over tightening those brass fittings - they can strip out really easily.

Cheers!

Mike