Is it possible to replace rubber bushings at rear of the strut arm without removing the arm from the "I" beam. There would have to be a lot of play in the "I" beam pivot. This is on my 1979 F-250 with 460, single cab.

 

You can pull the axle forward with a come-a-long (not recomended,but works) or remove brackets from frame.But you don't have to remove radius arm from I-Beam.

 

Yes He His Right You Can Do That But You Have To Be Careful About Your Shocks

 

I found it's Alot easier if you unbolt the shocks and springs, might wanna check the I beam bushings and kingpins too while you have it tore apart.

 

on my 78 f150 ranger 2w i didnt take any thing off beside the raidus arm nut put a come along on the bumper and th i-beam then pulled it forward when i had it as far as i would go the shock was hitting the shock tower it didnt hurt. it only took me about an hour to both sides

 

Keep in mind that there is a bushing where the axle pivots on the frame. This bushing is often forgotten but gets just as much wear and is as important as the radius arm bushing. I replaced both at the same time. Unbolt shock, spring, pivot bolt and radius arm nut and it will all come right out. I replaced them with poly bushings and it made a huge difference... I'd recommend replacing the pivot bushings too, while you are under there.

Marty

 

Thanks for all the advice. Now to get out the BIG wrenches and penetrating oil. I thought it looked possible but needed to know if it's been done before.I'll replace the 25 year old pivot bushings too but may put those off a little longer. Old geezers like me don't enjoy laying under a pickup like they used to. Thanks to all.

 

Another way to do it would be to grind off the rivets that hold the bracket to the frame and then just replace them with bolts. It's SOOOOOOOO much easier to do it that way, that's what I've done to all my trucks. Just take a grinder to those rivets, and pop 'em out. This way if you ever have to do it again, it'll only take a few minutes. I don't exactly like the idea of pulling the I-beam that far forward without at least warping something. And truthfully, even taking the radius arm off completley from the I-beam wasn't that bad of a job either. Choose whichever direction you like, and We'll all help you out along the way if you get stuck!

 

I got the job done but it wasn't easy. I chickened out on the come-along method and after looking closer I found that my brackets were bolted to the frame and not riveted like I thought. The hard part was the fact that each bolt and nut had to be turned, full length, with a breaker bar or a long wrench. The nuts are made under size so that they won't loosen. Even the big strut rod nut had to be turned with a 14" pipe wrench all the way to the end. I bought the pivot bushings and it looks like pulling the bolt should be easy with the springs relaxed.