starting problems
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Senior User
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starting problems
My 78 crew cab has a 400 {No M} and I have had intermittent starting problems. When cold it starts and runs fine. When it sits hot for a while it acts as if its flooded. I blew out a muffler when it backfired by cranking it so much when it was in one of its fits. I rebuilt the 2 barrel carb including a new float needle and didn't find any problems.
It still gave me troubles today.
Could it be a coil or ignition problem when hot? Any suggestions???
It still gave me troubles today.
Could it be a coil or ignition problem when hot? Any suggestions???
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2000
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John, first check for spark when it goes into the no-start mode. If you don't get any spark, I'd suspect the ignition module. They have a failure history on these models.
Yes, it could be the coil, or the stator/pick-up coil inside the distributor, but the ignition module is the most likely culprit.
Yes, it could be the coil, or the stator/pick-up coil inside the distributor, but the ignition module is the most likely culprit.
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Aiken SC
My truck was doing something similar to what you describe. Try taking the starter off and at least get it tested. After replacing the starter my truck started fine and would start after it had run awhile and been shut off.
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Corpus Christi,Tx.
do you have a check valve in the vacuum advance line between the distributor and the ported vacuum switch in the intake manifold?
I had similar issue and it turned out to be a vacuum check valve like thing in the vacum advance line. (been meaning to ask here )
on one side of the check valve it says "carb" and the other "dist."
when I got the truck this was reversed carb side to the distributor the truck started well like this. I decided to "fix it" after rebuilding the carb. would start great when cold, after the engine had heated up I'd have to have the pedal to the floor and crank on it for about 15 seconds or more before the engine would catch and would usually backfire.
turned the check valve back around and she starts without touching the gas petal usualy when warm.
I hope this helps
Tony
I had similar issue and it turned out to be a vacuum check valve like thing in the vacum advance line. (been meaning to ask here )
on one side of the check valve it says "carb" and the other "dist."
when I got the truck this was reversed carb side to the distributor the truck started well like this. I decided to "fix it" after rebuilding the carb. would start great when cold, after the engine had heated up I'd have to have the pedal to the floor and crank on it for about 15 seconds or more before the engine would catch and would usually backfire.
turned the check valve back around and she starts without touching the gas petal usualy when warm.
I hope this helps
Tony
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Joined: Apr 2000
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From: SD
When it does this, does holding the pedal to the floor make it start better? If so it's flooded and you have a perculation problem - the heat from the engine boils the gas out of the carb and into the engine. I had the same problem and installed a $10 1" plastic carb spacer and no more trouble. The plastic helps to insulate the carb and keep it cooler.
Marty
Marty
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: okc
check your timing, if its too far advanced it will make the motor work against itself making starting difficult......also make sure your vacuum advance isnt sticking after you shut it off when its hot........just some thoughts......
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2000
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From: SD
One simple test - when it is cranking slow, disconnect the coil wire. If it then cranks faster, you know the timing is the problem. If that makes no change, it's related to the starter, cables and battery.
Marty
Marty
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problem fixed
Lonerangerxlt thanks for the tip. It seems to have been the pickup coil in the distributor. I changed it tonight..warmed it up and it started everytime. I'll give it a good testin' this weekend. THANKS JOHN 
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Congrats on fixing it, John. The pick-up coil is very failure prone. It's wires flex every time the vacuum advance moves the dist plate, and that causes an open circuit. Bad ignition modules also cause the same symptoms.
We'll keep our fingers crossed.....
We'll keep our fingers crossed.....