51 dueller- What's a liter? LOL Just kiddin. Down here where its warm we have quarts or gallons. LOL..

 

Ok,
I made a decision based on what I want in my truck. Im going to have my radiator guy rebuild my stock radiator- core tanks and all. Im going with a remote mounted trans cooler as well. I called around, and talked with the fellas here in San Diego Chapter of Pickups Limited (which I attended my first meeting last night ) and decided to go with the stock setup.
One thing I took into consideration was the fact that even with a leaky radiator, my engine was still nice and cool, no matter what. The radiator guy (who happens to be a Ford rod builder, and an old timer to boot) told me my radiator would look and work like it just came from the factory, and that he guarantees all his work. Bottom line is that the guy was really friendly, and I trust him. I was also told by every vendor that I called that $265 for a new stock radiator rebuilt or not was a good deal.
Thats my story, and Im sticking to it.

P.S. The guys and gals here in the San Diego Chapter of Pickups Limited are a GREAT group! Im looking forward to functions and cruising with people who love their trucks as much as I do.

Once again, Thanks guys!

Rich

 

I've got 20 years on a 289/C4, using the old stock 1951 F1 radiator and a cheapo JC Whitney tranny cooler in front of the radiator. Works fine.

 

I have a question for you guys using the stock 48-52 radiators and possibly 48-56. I know they were originally designed to run a 4-7 pound pressure cap. Do you continue to run the original cap or do you have the radiator recored with a higher pressure core and use a higher pressure cap? I still have my stock radiator but I am reluctant to use it because of the low pressure cap situation...

Vern

 

Vern -

I had my stock radiator cleaned out and tested to 20 psi. I still run a 7 pound cap on it. Works great.

 

I still use a cap pressure rated to the old (low) stock radiator pressure. I'm not sure it'd survive a 14 psi cap.

 

Vern -
I'm with Randy Jack, I personally don't have the original in my, however I have several friend who do. They all state they run no higher than a 7 lbs cap. One friend of mine had the entire core replaced when his fan came loose and pretty much ate the core. He had a heavy duty core put in, but the radiator shop told him no to use a higher pressure cap. Apparently it's the design and strength of the upper tank that will split or separate with higher pressure. I'd stay with the 7 lb cap. or put a nice aluminum radiator in your truck and give me your radiator..... Smile!!!!!

 

Imlowr2,

You will be my number one "go to" guy if I decide not to use it...

Vern

 

I truly appreciate that Vern..

 

Ok guys,
I guess Im not sticking to my original story. Im back to square one, and still looking for a replacement radiator. Today Im in the aluminum mood. Man I wish I wasnt so indecisive. Im gonna keep checking around,and hopefully figure out something nice that I can afford. I just want to make the best decision, and not have to do everything twice like some of the kind gentlemen on this board

Hi John!

Rich

 

I can't decide if I am indecisive or not, but I will cast one more vote. I like the Modine replacement over aluminum for no other reason than repairability, I like stuff I can fix (read solder) on the side of the road if I have to. That has always been the bottom line and has never let me down. I have expressed myself and now I feel better, I think.

 

I would have to agree with Fatfenders 56. Although I don't know much about the custom aluminum radiators other than they cool really good and look sweet, having the Modine radiator is definitely more practical. He has a good point about the solder and I've been there more than once. With the aluminum, you get a leak, your in trouble. Good point! If money is an issue, I wouldn't even think twice and go with the Modine or just repair yours.

 

A really deluxe set-up (IMHO) and one that addresses 51dueller's very legitimate concerns about over-cooling (you don't need to be at -100 F to have that problem ) is to install a thermostatic valve in the line after the stock tank cooler. These are made by several of the aftermarket cooler guys. When the tank cooler is doing all that's needed, no flow goes to the air-cooled auxiliary cooler. When it starts climbing above that (I think it's about 160) it diverts the oil thru the air-cooled. The thermostatic valves are very compact, take up no room to speak of and can be retrofitted if you already have an aux cooler.

I used to run only an aux cooler (air-cooled) on a car in Chicago and the shift points would change dramatically when it was in the 20's all day. Unless I ran on the highway, it just never got warm enough (I had a large aux cooler, which you need if you're only running the aux).