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96 AEROSTAR SLIDING DOOR STUCK CLOSED

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Old 06-14-2000, 11:17 AM
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96 AEROSTAR SLIDING DOOR STUCK CLOSED

 
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Old 06-23-2000, 07:57 AM
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96 AEROSTAR SLIDING DOOR STUCK CLOSED

My sliding door has gotten stuck 9 times in 2 years. Anyone else with this problem? Ford acts like this problem does not exist and keeps trying to tell me that I don't know how to close the door.
I have had 9 different things done to the door. None have helped and this continues to be a problem.

Everyone with this problem, please call ford customer care, and also email me. I am trying to have a recall notice sent out, but need more people to complain.

thanks
michelle
 
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Old 01-22-2006, 10:35 PM
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96 sliding door

Hi Michelle, Just tell me what to do (did not see an email address), and I'll join your campaign--same problem with my 96. My Dad paid $300 to get his 95 door unstuck. My 96 is still that way. Clay
 
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Old 01-22-2006, 10:45 PM
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Mine too!! How did they unstuck your dads clay?
 
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Old 01-22-2006, 11:14 PM
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search Aero forum...we have all been there...done that
may have broken guide rail, guide roller, etc

lots of white lithium spray grease regularly and gentle closing are the secrets to long life and few problems, make the grand kids get in thru the lift gate and handcuff them so they don't mess with the slider.
 

Last edited by 96_4wdr; 01-22-2006 at 11:16 PM.
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Old 01-22-2006, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by ClayK
Hi Michelle, Just tell me what to do (did not see an email address), and I'll join your campaign--same problem with my 96. My Dad paid $300 to get his 95 door unstuck. My 96 is still that way. Clay
Welcome!

If you remove the inside door panel you can manually unlatch it with a pair of pliers pulling on the rod. Can't believe your dad got ripped $300 to do that.

make the grand kids get in thru the lift gate and handcuff them so they don't mess with the slider.
I might have to do that with my kids shortly.
 
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Old 03-03-2006, 05:57 PM
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I was just told they have to replace the entire door as they believe the back hing is broken, since it is broken and can't use pliers, any suggestions?
 
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Old 03-03-2006, 07:04 PM
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> as they believe the back hing is broken

That is one thing I have not see on an Aerostar so I am not sure I would believe that without pictures. You know, many times it is the rubber gasket holding the door in. Many times all I had to do for someone is silicon the gasket around the door.
 
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Old 03-03-2006, 11:58 PM
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Thanks, well at this point they could not fix it, left the panel off per my request to work on. Thhey even cut out a small portion on the inside so they could get close to the hing, but no luck. I guess its my turn to check it out and give it a try. Who knows I may get lucky.
 

Last edited by espresso; 03-04-2006 at 12:02 AM.
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Old 03-04-2006, 02:10 AM
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What a load. I would demand my money back, that is like saying that instead of replacing the plugs, they have to replace the engine instead because they can't reach them. How did they suggest on removing the door? Using a sawzall?


I personally would start spraying EVERYTHING with liquid Silicon and let it sit for a day or so and try again on opening it with a pair of pliars.
 
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Old 03-04-2006, 03:31 AM
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I doesn't pull it pushes. Look through the hole that was cut. Take whatever ( I use a wonder-bar) put it against the bar on the latch and tap it. Door popped open.
At least on the 93 aero I have.

JaY
 
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Old 03-04-2006, 04:57 PM
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When you use the pliers to move the linkage back and forth give her a good nudge from inside and she should pop out then clean and lube everthing mine needed an adjustment on the rod after this and no probs since. You'll find on adjusting these things that if you go too far either way, either the inside or outside latch won't work, be patient there is a sweet spot.
 
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Old 03-05-2006, 12:08 AM
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This is my second Aero, my 95 I actually had to align the door, took a while but got it right but never encountered a stock door. Thanks for all the tips Ill try tomorrow.
 
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Old 03-06-2006, 10:09 PM
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I used to have a lot of trouble with the slider sticking shut. In my case the door always slid too far forward & the two halves of the latch jammed on the head of the latch pin rather than closing on the shank - one latch half wedged under the "nail head" and one latch half completely off the end of the pin.

The rod pushes on an angle on the release arm on the latch & if the latch gets stuck, the extra heaving on the handle just bends the arm sideways. Once that happens, no amount of handle movement is enough to release the latch. I had to cut a hole in the sheet metal inside the door near the latch. I stock up on band-aids, then reach in through the hole with my triple-jointed wrist & bend/force the arm back into position while pulling the inside door handle. The door WILL open if this is done right.

Some of the things I did trying to fix the problem:
1) I shimmed the latch on the edge of the sliding door using stacked washers. The idea was to position the latch more to the rear of the van so it wouldn't skip off the end of the pin. This worked for a while.
2) The middle track on the side of my van did not have attachment to the van where it bends round the door post. Thinking the track was flexing forward due to the force of the middle hinge when closing, I added a bracket and screw to fix it to the door post. This worked for a long while.
3) I noticed the latch was hitting the post too low. I replaced the worn-out roller at the bottom of the door. At the time, I worked for an auto parts plant that used the same roller in a product they made (score!). Then I bit the bullet and replaced the middle hinge assembly (I could not get replacement rollers to rebuild it - dang). This worked, but if the door was slammed too hard it still jammed occasionally.
4) I flogged my wife & kids (verbally, anyway) until they stopped slamming the door harder than absolutely necessary. It really, really helps to use your left hand to push the back of the door inward & upward when closing the door. This worked for a while, too, but wasn't guaranteed to work all the time (sigh).
5) I adjusted the door. In my case, the door sits nicely top-to-bottom, but looks like it sits way too far back in the opening: the gap at the back of the door is a lot smaller than the gap at the front of the door. I had to adjust the back of the door outward some so that the "corner" of the door skin does not clip the quarter panel sheet metal and chip off any more paint than it did the first time (dang). This finally seems to have solved it.

Honestly, I think every item listed above contributes to the proper functioning of the door; i.e. I don't think I could undo any one of them & still have the door work right. Sadly, 4) was the most frustrating contributor.

Good luck. These things CAN work right if you are determined to work with them.

Cheers,
Eric
 
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Old 03-06-2006, 10:36 PM
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Thanks Eric and all, I have not had a chance to get to this but will try it on Wednesday when my wife is off and have some time during the day, wish me luck folks, ill need it!!!
 


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