96 AEROSTAR SLIDING DOOR STUCK CLOSED
#31
take the panel off on the inside - BTW I'm assuming here that they didn't change the design much on all the aeros (mine's an 89)
The center hinge gives you the left and right adjustment - the key here is to not loosen it all the way up, but just loose enough, so you can tap it into alignment with a block of wood and a hammer, with the door open - I did this from the rear of the van, and was able to get a board between...
the reason I say this, is because a tiny bit of adjustment here goes a long way... if you go too far back, you will chip the paint on the body when you open/close - if you go to far forward, the door will not latch.
The other key adjustment is the lower and upper guide brackets - they adjust how flush the door will seat when closed...
what's nice, is that you can adjust only one of the two, so if the top looks ok, but the bottom is too far in, you can just loosen those bolts, and slide her out a little bit at a time...
Yeah, it took me about 4 hours to get mine perfect, but I also had the door re-welded with a new lower body panel, and after they did that, it's never been 100% correct, but at least now I have it sealed when closed.
I have the same problem with the contacts not making all the time - but I will not ever touch the adjustments on the door again... I'd rather come up with some other way for that to work... they usually make ok, but it's darn close to missing.
I know the reason is because the door is a bit towards the back, and there is a bigger gap on the right side (where the contacts are) than the left side, but it was the only way I found to correct the problem that I had...
If your door is in perfect shape otherwise, this should go a lot easier for you.... just be carefull on the left to right adjustment, as you will chip the paint if you go too far to the left and try it.
this whole thing would be cake with 2 people... like hanging a picture frame...
Hope any of that helps you - it's not something to be done in a hurry, that's for sure.
The center hinge gives you the left and right adjustment - the key here is to not loosen it all the way up, but just loose enough, so you can tap it into alignment with a block of wood and a hammer, with the door open - I did this from the rear of the van, and was able to get a board between...
the reason I say this, is because a tiny bit of adjustment here goes a long way... if you go too far back, you will chip the paint on the body when you open/close - if you go to far forward, the door will not latch.
The other key adjustment is the lower and upper guide brackets - they adjust how flush the door will seat when closed...
what's nice, is that you can adjust only one of the two, so if the top looks ok, but the bottom is too far in, you can just loosen those bolts, and slide her out a little bit at a time...
Yeah, it took me about 4 hours to get mine perfect, but I also had the door re-welded with a new lower body panel, and after they did that, it's never been 100% correct, but at least now I have it sealed when closed.
I have the same problem with the contacts not making all the time - but I will not ever touch the adjustments on the door again... I'd rather come up with some other way for that to work... they usually make ok, but it's darn close to missing.
I know the reason is because the door is a bit towards the back, and there is a bigger gap on the right side (where the contacts are) than the left side, but it was the only way I found to correct the problem that I had...
If your door is in perfect shape otherwise, this should go a lot easier for you.... just be carefull on the left to right adjustment, as you will chip the paint if you go too far to the left and try it.
this whole thing would be cake with 2 people... like hanging a picture frame...
Hope any of that helps you - it's not something to be done in a hurry, that's for sure.
#32
Also mediaman, you don't realize just how bulky and heavy that Aerostar sliding rear door is, until you have to hang it or adjust it correctly!
Also, a big key as you stated: Have a helper, and don't be in a hurry. Take your time and think things out logically helps, if you don't have a manual handy.
Also, a big key as you stated: Have a helper, and don't be in a hurry. Take your time and think things out logically helps, if you don't have a manual handy.
#33
hi,
yeah, it's a lot heavier than it looks - I never had to deal with taking it all the way off, but just from moving it, you can tell that.
I didn't use a manual as even the shop one that I have doesn't have anything about the door alignment, specifically...
it's one of those jobs that is a pain, but when you are done, you feel good about doing, since everytime you open and close the door, you can appreciate it :-)
You CAN do this with one person (I did it myself) but 2 people would make the job easier - but so would any job (bleeding brakes comes to mind)
Good luck, and let us know how it went.
yeah, it's a lot heavier than it looks - I never had to deal with taking it all the way off, but just from moving it, you can tell that.
I didn't use a manual as even the shop one that I have doesn't have anything about the door alignment, specifically...
it's one of those jobs that is a pain, but when you are done, you feel good about doing, since everytime you open and close the door, you can appreciate it :-)
You CAN do this with one person (I did it myself) but 2 people would make the job easier - but so would any job (bleeding brakes comes to mind)
Good luck, and let us know how it went.
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