I am having a door lock problem on the passenger side door of my truck. It won't work off the keypad and it wont work off the controller on the door. It sounds like it might be a solenoid. Anybody ever encounter this? Also I am getting an intermittent door ajar signal which is probably related.
I'd spray the crap out of the lock with WD40 and work the latch well before spending cash.
Just like a sad dog at the shelter with those eyes... I had to have her: 1977 F250, 460 V8, C6 needs love: PS pump, hoses, gearbox, fan clutch, dimmer switch, blower relay, battery cables, headers, muffler, rattle kit, door seals, ignition module, Kenwood, radiator, thermostat, transmission fluid & cooler, tach, gauges and on and on....
It is the lock actuator- IF.. when you press unlock does it "try" to unlock it but it won't do it all the way? That problem seems to be common. If its not doing anything at all when you press unlock then good luck.
My 2000 f350 i replaced 3 of 4 door lock actuators. They would work sometimes and not others. They are poorly made from what i was told by ford. Mine went bad about 100k. The front was hard to remove. There is a tab in there that you gotta press but it gets pressed and pushed at the same time it is about 1/2 inch by about 1 1/2 inches long. Then i found out it slips off sometimes once you put the new one in so it stops working. But I just have to click in place. I finally tye wrapped it to the door frame so it wouldn't move. The door slaming seems to make it come loose. Maybe I broke something putting it in. I fought it on instalation then figured it out. It was easy once i could see in the door with a mirror and flashlight. Hope I remember when they go bad again...
My 2001 F-250 SD door lock actuators got so bad I went to using a key! I bought a pair of OEM actuators from: http://www.commandoalarms.com/itm30005.htm and mounted them under the latch inside the door using screws supplied where the door starts to round up.
They fit nicely in this position but it does require forming a stiff piece of 1/8" push-pull wire with 90 degree bends to the hole in the latch where the old actuator arm was located. It took me a few hours of time but when I was done the lock actuators worked flawlessly using the existing 2 wires that went to the old actuators. Wire plug needed to be removed and end conneted to the new actuators that were installed. Two holes had to be drilled in the inside door metal to mount with screws supplied. stiff wire length was about 8" for each door. Be careful to route wires so the window does not lower onto them. position use tie wrop or tap to be safe.
The reason I went the OEM route was because of all the post on lock actuators in FTE. Not a job for the faint of heart but about the same difficulty as changing spark plugs on a 2001 F-250 SD 5.4 ltr. Hey it was almost fun again!
This is a well documented problem and has been fixed with a new actuator design. I bought mine from and online dealer. All four were replaced (Excursion), and it takes a couple of hours. Do a search in the Excursion area and you find one or more instruction posts.
Just bought my truck and both of the actuators make noise when you press the lock unlock button but of course don't do anything. I saw on fpn.com that the actuators are $41 through them kind of exspensive but well worth it.
99 F350 PowerStroke Dually
86 Buick GN
torque = how hard ya hit the wall. horsepower = how much it hurts when you hit it
I have sluggish door locks when I use the door switch. If I have power door locks do I have keyless entry as I didn't get a key FOB when I bought the truck. I bought a FOB but haing problems getting it programed on my 2000 F250.
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