Need to be careful with the breaker bar though. You can strip the threads on the crank pulley bolt. I've unstuck a couple of engine that sat for a while using methods others have discribed, and was lucky enough to not have to rebuild them. They used a little oil, but not bad considering the number of years and miles on the engine.

 

Well...as starter of the post here's an update.
Let the Marvel Mystery Oil sit for a couple of days......and a while ago I tried...and suceeded at turning engine over.

On to phase 2....and beyond.
Thanks guys!
crutch

 

55B.

Did you know that M.M.O. used to sell an under the hood, bolt on, Automatic Oiling system for ones vehicle?
Ran across several on e-Bay recently, Rather cool looking & what a way to ones engine clean, no muss, no fuss, just top off the container when it got low.

Cheers
Colonel Flashman
Red '58 M-100
Blue '58 M-100 Panel

 

May I ask what M.M.O. is or what does it stand for. Are you talking about something to oil the rocker arm shafts or clean the exterior of the engine?


Thabks,

bob

 

I didn't know that, but I believe it. As a boy I remember my Dad telling me what the formula was at the Ft Smith, AR Hudson station. 5000 gallons of regular + 5 gallons of MMO = Ethyl at 5 cents more per gallon.

Ahhh capitalism. He thought a nickle a gallon extra was a scam in 1953 dollars, and would never buy premium fuel for the rest of his life. Is the addition of MMO to fuel still recommended on the label?

 

I just remembered that M.M.O. may stand for Marvel Mystery Oil. Have seen it around for years and years and have even put some in the gas tank on some of my vehicles,,,don't know if it did anything or not.


bob

 

It does ... just read up a few posts.

 

In the past year I "woke up" two engines (a 289 in a Mustang and my truck's 292) that had sat for over 5 years. I had some help from a guy who's an A&P certified aircraft mechanic, and we did just about everything said here. Both engines ran great...good compression and no smoke. The A&P made a big deal about letting the cylinders soak in penetrating oil at least overnight after hand cranking the engine before we tried to fire it up. Be patient there.

I wanted to chime in about purging the gas lines of old fuel. That's very easy to overlook, and running on varnish will not do your brand new rebuilt carb any good. We removed the fuel line at the tank and put it in a coffee can full of fresh gas, removed the fuel line at the fuel filter right before the carb and stuck it in a second coffee can, and then cranked the starter until the fuel ran out clear and smelled like new gas. It took longer than you might think to clear out all the bad stuff.

Last thing is do something with the tank. Resist the temptation to just fill up that old one with new gas unless you can get a look inside and confirm it's clean. Best thing is to take it out and either get it replaced or cleaned very well.

I think there's been some threads around here on the subject of cleaning out an old tank if you do a search.

Good luck,
ROB

 

Crutch, Congrats on getting the motor unstuck. Keep us informed of further progress.

Husker