Headlight aim too low?
#1
Headlight aim too low?
When I bought my 93 (see sig.), the headlights were aimed way too low. The high beams were about where the low beams should be and the lows were about useless. So I adjusted them and all is well. Recently, when I got my 92, I noticed the exact same thing! Again more adjustments. If anything, they should be too high considering how the rear sags on these 4WD extended vans.
Has anybody noticed this before? Is it just my two? Am I nuts?
Thanks for listening.
Happy Holidays!
Scott
Has anybody noticed this before? Is it just my two? Am I nuts?
Thanks for listening.
Happy Holidays!
Scott
#3
Usually when cars come off the assembly line, one of the last things that gets done is headlight aiming. They usually do a decent job of aiming them according to the guides they use, but I've seen wide variations before. I don't know whether that factory setting is too low for personal preferences, as they may be conforming to DOT regulations to try to avoid assaulting on-coming drivers.
Also, a lot can happen in 10 years. The headlights will usually burn out about every two or three years, so in ten years, it probably gets replaced at least twice. With the old sealed beam lights, the aim will be significantly affected when you replace them, and most people don't bother to check the aim afterward. I saw one of the flush mounted lights with a crack in its plastic housing, which made it impossible to hold a setting.
Headlight performance is an obsession with me, so I always try to make sure that my lights are adjusted properly. I also made changes to the stock lights for better illumination. If you have the old sealed beam lights, you can make very cost effective improvements by switching to something like Sylvania's Extra Vision lights, or spend a little more and get a set of European spec E-code lights. If you have flush mounted housings, you're stuck with the optics they provide. You can still isnstall the Extra Vision bulbs for more light. In either case, you should install relays in your headlight circuit to switch the lights, as their low beams use higher power than stock to produce more light, and the stock wiring and switch will overheat.
Oh yes, avoid those stupid blue painted bulbs, no matter who makes them.
Also, a lot can happen in 10 years. The headlights will usually burn out about every two or three years, so in ten years, it probably gets replaced at least twice. With the old sealed beam lights, the aim will be significantly affected when you replace them, and most people don't bother to check the aim afterward. I saw one of the flush mounted lights with a crack in its plastic housing, which made it impossible to hold a setting.
Headlight performance is an obsession with me, so I always try to make sure that my lights are adjusted properly. I also made changes to the stock lights for better illumination. If you have the old sealed beam lights, you can make very cost effective improvements by switching to something like Sylvania's Extra Vision lights, or spend a little more and get a set of European spec E-code lights. If you have flush mounted housings, you're stuck with the optics they provide. You can still isnstall the Extra Vision bulbs for more light. In either case, you should install relays in your headlight circuit to switch the lights, as their low beams use higher power than stock to produce more light, and the stock wiring and switch will overheat.
Oh yes, avoid those stupid blue painted bulbs, no matter who makes them.
#4
#5
My 92's headlights were off when I purchased it used.
I could adjust the passenger headlight with no trouble, but the driver's side had a broken adjustment screw mounting nut. It appeared to be good and I could adjust the headlight within specs, but the first bump I hit and the headlight would shift down. This nut is just a plastic nut similar to those used on the license plates that snaps into a squared hole. The plastic nut had split and when sitting still could be tightened, but any bump would cause the headlight springs to pull the adjusting screw through the nut thus changing the alignment. I replaced this with an oversized plastic nut from my junk box and adjusted it just fine. It has worked fine for the last two years.
On the possibility of the headlights being off, you have to remember that they have probably been replaced at least once or twice over a 10 year period and not everyone knows which screws to loosen to remove the old burnt out lights. It would be easy for someone to loosen the adjusting screw and forget to realign the headlights after replacement.
Ron
I could adjust the passenger headlight with no trouble, but the driver's side had a broken adjustment screw mounting nut. It appeared to be good and I could adjust the headlight within specs, but the first bump I hit and the headlight would shift down. This nut is just a plastic nut similar to those used on the license plates that snaps into a squared hole. The plastic nut had split and when sitting still could be tightened, but any bump would cause the headlight springs to pull the adjusting screw through the nut thus changing the alignment. I replaced this with an oversized plastic nut from my junk box and adjusted it just fine. It has worked fine for the last two years.
On the possibility of the headlights being off, you have to remember that they have probably been replaced at least once or twice over a 10 year period and not everyone knows which screws to loosen to remove the old burnt out lights. It would be easy for someone to loosen the adjusting screw and forget to realign the headlights after replacement.
Ron
Last edited by rlmdad; 12-25-2003 at 04:40 AM.
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