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I need to replace the upper control arm bushings on my 93 AWD Aerostar. Do I need to remove the upper control arm to do this? It appears that if I could get the nuts on each end of the shaft/bracket off, I could push the old bushings out and push the new ones in? Is it that simple, gosh I hope so!
Any advice (hopefully quickly!) will be appreciated.
Unfortunately, you'll have to take the upper control arm off. Before you tackle this, there's a few things you have to consider, just to make sure you're up for the job.
The metal sleeves of the bushings are a press fit in the frame mounted brackets. To get the brackets off, you have to remove the upper control arm to get enough clearance for the subframe mounting bolts.
You'll need a method to press the old ones out and the new ones in. NAPA's got the bushings, part number NCP2671313. Get two.
The brackets aren't parallel on each side, so getting a straight press is a challenge, if you don't feel up to fabricating a spacer, take them to a machine shop and have the press operator figure it out. Me, I used a large gear puller and a bearing splitter as my out and in press, and ground an old wheel bearing race to face that weird angle.
Those subframe mounting bolts are bear to remove. When new, they got stuck on with about 140 ft lbs. You've got years of rust to get through to even get to that point. Make sure you've got the subframe supported, as well as the lower control arm, in addition to supporting the van on a jackstand at the body/frame rail.
I took about seven hours to do my first one, but once I figured out the procedure, I got the other side done in less than four.
Well, believe it or not, I did it! I was able to replace the bushings w/o removing the control arm. Had to use wrenches/sockets that woudl get at the large nuts and had to disconnect brake line but i think it was worth it, especially that it tends to disrupt the alignment less.
Hello. I have a couple of questions as it seems I must also perfrom this procedure.
did you replace both of the upper bushings? how did you remove them. was there a lot of rust on the big nuts on the end so that it looked really grim yet they came off anyway, or was there not much rust?
In my case, the adjusting arm has shifted towards the front of the vehicle, because the rear bushing is comepletely gone. the front bushing wasn't so bad but it has been unseated. I think it moves forward a little each time I hit the brake. did you experience this also?
I replaced both upper bushings on the pssgr side. I don't think the bushing moved forward but I could see where it would in your case. Wasn't a lot of rust, maybe some grime. The big nuts came off pretty easily from a torque standpoint but you really have to get creative with what type of wrench or socket to use. In much of the removal/install, you'll only get fractions of a turn and then have to flip the wrench & repeat this often.
Once the nuts were off, I was able to pound out the bushing using a brass punch.
Thanks for the info on changing the upper bushings. I, too, will be doing this after the holidays and it's great to know it will not be as bad a task as I was first thinking.
I replaced all the front end bushings in my van last summer. I didn't have a problem with the non-parallel faces on the frame brackets because I use an air chisel to drive the bushings out. I nestled the chisel under the flanges on the bushings & they just slid right out.
Pressing them in was easy because the rear face was flat (IIRC). I had the arms out when I did them.
It would be very difficult to explain exactly how I replaced the bushings without removing the control arm mounting bracket. Let me also say I only did the pssgr side and the driver side, which I have yet to do, looks like it may have tighter clearance. However, I must point out that you have to get creative with sockets and wrenches to remove the nuts that hold the bushings in. I believe that the rear one comes out best with a socket (and turning the control arm instead of the ratched to loosen it) and the front best with wrenches. Also, to press the new bushing in, you have to have a thin "bushing" (I used steel tubing, a bit too small diameter, had to cut it and expand it open) or the rubber will expand too much and interfere with correctly pressing it in. Make sure you really clean out the inside surfaces of the contol arm and the outside surface of the bushing, maybe use a bit of light grease to let it slide in easy.
If someone else tries this and gets better info to share, please do.