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How to change IACV on 98 Exped?

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Old 10-11-2003, 01:14 PM
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How to change IACV on 98 Exped?

I now know my IACV is bad based on a search/and my post. However, I have no idea where this part is located, nor the necessary procedures for changing it. Can you pls assist? I want to replace asap and prefer to do it myself if it isn't a huge job.

1998 exped 5.4 liter.

thank you.
 
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Old 10-11-2003, 03:57 PM
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Not hard. Actual labor time should be about 30 minutes.

You need:

A. The correct IAC for your engine

B. The gasket that fits at the base of the IAC (usually black, diamond-shaped with two holes in center for air passage into IAC. If you order an IAC from Ford, this gasket must be ordered seperately.

C. Your metric socket set.

Procedure:

1. Disconnect battery negative terminal.

2. Unbolt black plastic "5.4" cover from the top of the engine. The IAC should now be in plain view on the driver's side of the engine toward the rear. I'm assuming that you have a new one, therefore you know what they look like.

3. Unplug two-wire electrical harness from IAC.

4. Undo the two bolts that anchor the IAC to the induction system. I can't recall their size, either 7mm or 8 mm.

5. Remove IAC. The gasket discussed in "B" should come with it. If not, remove it carefully.

6. Install new IAC with new gasket. Don't overtorque the bolts.

7. Plug wiring harness into new IAC.

8. Bolt the "5.4" cover back on.

9. Reconnect battery.

10. Start engine, and allow to idle for a few minutes, allowing the engine software to calibrate the new IAC.

11. Pat yourself on the back for saving a cool $100 in labor charges that otherwise would have lined the dealer's pockets.
 
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Old 10-11-2003, 04:37 PM
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Great thank you. No, I have not purchased a new iac so i am not sure what it looks like. I removed the 5.4 liter cover but don't know where the IAC is located, but now that i know how to re-install a new one, I will order it from Ford and then i will know what to look for.

Thanks again.
 
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Old 10-11-2003, 07:03 PM
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I am in the same boat with my wife's 98 4.6L Expedition. I got a quote from the Ford dealer for the part today for $123!!! Others on this site say the part is anywhere from $60-$80. Maybe the IAC for the 4.6L is different than the 5.4L, I don't know.

Anyone out there know a good place (online maybe) to buy an IAC??

Thanks,
Luke
 
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Old 10-11-2003, 07:08 PM
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Originally posted by Skywalker1980
I am in the same boat with my wife's 98 4.6L Expedition. I got a quote from the Ford dealer for the part today for $123!!! Others on this site say the part is anywhere from $60-$80. Maybe the IAC for the 4.6L is different than the 5.4L, I don't know.

Anyone out there know a good place (online maybe) to buy an IAC??

Thanks,
Luke
Are you sure he got the right part? $123 is super high.

Like you said, we've seen pretty consistent pricing, coast-to-coast.

I'd double check before ordering online.

There's a Ford parts site that's apparently really good, but I can't remember the URL. It's something like "fordpartsdirect.com" or something. Somebody else will know.

XXL
 
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Old 10-11-2003, 07:14 PM
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Originally posted by tealboy1
Great thank you. No, I have not purchased a new iac so i am not sure what it looks like. I removed the 5.4 liter cover but don't know where the IAC is located, but now that i know how to re-install a new one, I will order it from Ford and then i will know what to look for.

Thanks again.


Here's a picture of the intake. In the real world, the right half of this picture is tucked away underneath that overhang, which is why the IAC can be a bit of a pain to get to. I outlined the IAC in yellow, and the black line shows where it actually joins the manifold. Be extremely careful not to crossthread the bolts when you put them back in. Put a little bit of antisieze (preferably) or WD40 in the threads to make them go in easier. You should be able to finger-tighten the bolt all the way down.

Good luck!

XXL
 
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Old 10-11-2003, 10:50 PM
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The 5.4 IAC is more expensive than the 4.6, but some of the numbers quoted here are high to me.

P.S.: Luke, the illustration above is from a 5.4 engine. The induction setup on a 4.6 looks a little different, with the IAC positioned more to the driver's side of the engine. The outlined IAC part is essentially identical in appearance to the one on a 4.6.
 

Last edited by PaulC; 10-11-2003 at 11:01 PM.
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Old 10-12-2003, 06:39 AM
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Wow, the picture is worth a thousand words as they say. I was looking at two parts, both wrong. I now know exactly where the part is, and it looks a bit tricky to remove.

thanks a bunch.
 
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Old 10-12-2003, 09:09 AM
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You guys are great! Just got done removing, cleaning and replacing the IAC. Was a piece of cake. Clean the throttle body and accelerator cable while I was there. Car runs great. However, it seems that a total replacement of the IAC is enevitable. When the time comes, I will know how to do it thanks to you guys. I did discover that the IAC for a 4.6L IS more expensive than the IAC for a 5.4L.
 
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Old 10-12-2003, 10:57 AM
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Originally posted by tealboy1
Wow, the picture is worth a thousand words as they say. I was looking at two parts, both wrong. I now know exactly where the part is, and it looks a bit tricky to remove.

thanks a bunch.
No problem.



XXL
 
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Old 10-13-2003, 03:36 PM
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I just ordered the IACV for my 98 EB 5.4L from NAPA for $52.99. I will be replacing it this week when it comes in. The EOG is great.
 
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Old 09-02-2004, 03:05 AM
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Thumbs up 1998 Expedition 5.4L IACV Replacement

Just replaced my IACV, purchased the valve and gasket from a local dealer, cost was about $80 for both.

Replacement was easy enough although the lower bolt was initially a bitch. Don't disconnect hose running along side valve for easier bolt access as I did initally only to find out that it was a coolant line, not a vacuum line.

A 5/16 box wrench did the trick but don't drop the wrench - coat hanger hook was needed to fish out carefully - nonetheless, $100 savings realized. Truck now idles fine. Thanks for all previous threads! -LM
 
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Old 09-13-2004, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by louman
Just replaced my IACV, purchased the valve and gasket from a local dealer, cost was about $80 for both.

Replacement was easy enough although the lower bolt was initially a bitch. Don't disconnect hose running along side valve for easier bolt access as I did initally only to find out that it was a coolant line, not a vacuum line.

A 5/16 box wrench did the trick but don't drop the wrench - coat hanger hook was needed to fish out carefully - nonetheless, $100 savings realized. Truck now idles fine. Thanks for all previous threads! -LM
LOL...I found out about that coolant line too... Although I left it off, only a small amount of fluid leaks out.

I used a 5/16" ratcheting combo wrench and kept saying "don't drop the wrench or the bolt" over and over...
 
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