eec codes
#1
eec codes
How do I tell if it's a 3 digit system or a 2 digit system? I keep getting these codes:
33, 13 (koeo)
53,85,38 (koer)
engine runs rough at idle, at 1200-1500 engine acts like its dead on one hole. also, it's a 5 speed, and when I accelerate from very low rpm, say 500 at 3/4 throttle, it has a severe "buck", or miss like it shuts off for a split second. Doesnt do it at any other throttle input, more or less.
33, 13 (koeo)
53,85,38 (koer)
engine runs rough at idle, at 1200-1500 engine acts like its dead on one hole. also, it's a 5 speed, and when I accelerate from very low rpm, say 500 at 3/4 throttle, it has a severe "buck", or miss like it shuts off for a split second. Doesnt do it at any other throttle input, more or less.
#2
#3
eec codes
[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 24-Oct-01 AT 01:53 AM (EST)[/font][p]
It looks like your throttle body area is having problems. One of the codes is for the throttle position sensor, and another is for the minimum idle speed test failed. If you disconnect the idle bypass solenoid while the truck is running, it should quit. If it doesn't, you have an air leak or the throttle stop screw has been messed with and the throttle butterfly is open too much.
It looks like your throttle body area is having problems. One of the codes is for the throttle position sensor, and another is for the minimum idle speed test failed. If you disconnect the idle bypass solenoid while the truck is running, it should quit. If it doesn't, you have an air leak or the throttle stop screw has been messed with and the throttle butterfly is open too much.
#5
eec codes
You should have three digit codes with a 95. The pause between the beeps or blinks is how you tell where the codes are separated. When I first read the codes I did it several times unitl I could tell the pattern of pauses. The length of the pause is longer between codes then it is between digits of the same fault code.
#6
eec codes
Hey, Franklin, I was wondering....
I disconnected the IAC solenoid today, and it didnt die. Could that be due to the holes in the butterflies in the TB? Each throttle valve has 1 small hole in it, causing a "vacuum leak". I covered one of them up, and it started running VERY rough, as if the idle wasnt slow already cause the IAC was disconnected, it went even slower, then died. I'm assuming that this tells me that there's no vaccuum leaks. Also, the thing "bucks" at 3/4 throttle or thereabouts when accelerating from idle on up to about 3000, seems worse in higher gears, probably cause it accelerates so slowly in higher gears. I was thinking TPS, mainly because it only does it at certain throttle input. When does the EGR have vacuum applied to it? I checked for vacuum to it, but got none (at operating temp).
I disconnected the IAC solenoid today, and it didnt die. Could that be due to the holes in the butterflies in the TB? Each throttle valve has 1 small hole in it, causing a "vacuum leak". I covered one of them up, and it started running VERY rough, as if the idle wasnt slow already cause the IAC was disconnected, it went even slower, then died. I'm assuming that this tells me that there's no vaccuum leaks. Also, the thing "bucks" at 3/4 throttle or thereabouts when accelerating from idle on up to about 3000, seems worse in higher gears, probably cause it accelerates so slowly in higher gears. I was thinking TPS, mainly because it only does it at certain throttle input. When does the EGR have vacuum applied to it? I checked for vacuum to it, but got none (at operating temp).
#7
eec codes
I got the "engine must die" from my book How to tune and modify ford fuel injection. What I get out of the book is there has to be a certain amount of air going through the butterfly so the IAC can control the idle speed. The IAC must get out of range if too much or too little air goes through the butterfly. I would take the throttle body off and clean it. Then put a new TPS sensor on and then set the idle screw so it dies. You also have a minimum voltage setting on the TPS. Some vehicles had slots in the TPS so you could adjust this minimum voltage. The EGR will not be on at idle. Fully warmed up is correct. I would rev the engine and see if it opened. Of course this has a sensor too that can go bad.
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#9
eec codes
[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 03-Nov-01 AT 09:35 PM (EST)[/font][p]Here's a place that has it. http://www.motorbooks.com/
I can't remember exactly where I got it. Sometimes I order through the mail, sometimes I pick them up at the bookstore in the mall or Books a million or someplace like that.
I can't remember exactly where I got it. Sometimes I order through the mail, sometimes I pick them up at the bookstore in the mall or Books a million or someplace like that.
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