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Pins and bracket.
Pads stuck in brackets.
Caliper stuck.
Hose damaged (even the static hoses fail).
Rotor condition after the event.
My vote are Motorcraft calipers as they are the only retail supplier that has the piston movement checked after being rebuilt. Hoses not as critical if you only replacing the one.
My vote is replace everything on the axle at once and be done with it. Pricey, but if you do, it will be years before you have this conversation again.
I would do the rotors and pads as well. If they're smoking the pad quality could be compromised, and the rotors have likely started to form cementite (a solid phase of cast iron that makes it feel like your rotors have done the impossible and warped).
Should you go that route the conventional wisdom says do the whole axle, as mentioned above. Living in the salt belt, when doing pads I've given up on reusing calipers. The corrosion on the piston too often causes it to hang on me once it's pushed back into the square cut seal. I've lost too many new rotors to calipers that were "fine" before my brake job.
What I bought for my truck:
-EBC green stuff pads front and rear
-EBC GD Rotors front and rear
-powerstop calipers for all 4 corners (reviews were good on amazon, price is great sold in pairs, and supposedly re-manufactured in Chicago)
-crown performance 5 line brake kit (have to call, it's not on their shopping cart)
-still deciding between cupro-nickle and stainless to replace all of the hard lines on my truck.
I couldn't tell you how any of this works on my truck, I had my ankle taken apart and remodeled the day after it all made it to my door. And it'll be months before I'm well enough to mess with the truck again.
I don't expect most people will go this far, but as a rule I no longer mess around with the parts of my truck that work to keep me alive. Except those powerstop calipers, the price was too good to not try. Otherwise probably cant' go wrong with the motocraft calipers, as mentioned above.
I would replace both calipers and do pads and rotors. Check the backing plates for rust...if the parking brake shoes are good adjust them and you should be good.
ive used centric brake calipers and pads in many of my vehicles and never had an issue.
We centric in almost every vehicle we work on unless it's a Mercedes BMW or Audi then we will use textar most of the times.
Yeah I'll definitely do the whole axle area. Might as well right. I've owned this truck for about 2 or 3 months so I want to over do it so I'll know what I've got and have done for future projects.
Not sure I'll go with new rotors (we have a brake lathe). I'll turn them and if they seem too far off I'll get new. The rotors look as if they've never been turned.
Time to catch up on the maintenance with this bad machine.
My vote is replace everything on the axle at once and be done with it. Pricey, but if you do, it will be years before you have this conversation again.
I would do the rotors and pads as well. If they're smoking the pad quality could be compromised, and the rotors have likely started to form cementite (a solid phase of cast iron that makes it feel like your rotors have done the impossible and warped).
Should you go that route the conventional wisdom says do the whole axle, as mentioned above. Living in the salt belt, when doing pads I've given up on reusing calipers. The corrosion on the piston too often causes it to hang on me once it's pushed back into the square cut seal. I've lost too many new rotors to calipers that were "fine" before my brake job.
What I bought for my truck:
-EBC green stuff pads front and rear
-EBC GD Rotors front and rear
-powerstop calipers for all 4 corners (reviews were good on amazon, price is great sold in pairs, and supposedly re-manufactured in Chicago)
-crown performance 5 line brake kit (have to call, it's not on their shopping cart)
-still deciding between cupro-nickle and stainless to replace all of the hard lines on my truck.
I couldn't tell you how any of this works on my truck, I had my ankle taken apart and remodeled the day after it all made it to my door. And it'll be months before I'm well enough to mess with the truck again.
I don't expect most people will go this far, but as a rule I no longer mess around with the parts of my truck that work to keep me alive. Except those powerstop calipers, the price was too good to not try. Otherwise probably cant' go wrong with the motocraft calipers, as mentioned above.
Couldn't of typed it better. It's all or nothing with these as far as concerned. Count on replacing the rear backing plate and hardware that supports the parking shoes. And while you're at it the wheel seal too since it has to come off anyways.
Man.....I forgot about the baking plate. I thought about that while I was at work but forgot them when I sent my order through.
Parts should be here late today and it's supposed to rain tomorrow. I won't be able to mess with the truck til next weekend. That'll give me time to order the plates I reckon.
I went with a PowerStop brake system. All 4 calipers, slotted rotors, and ceramic/carbon fiber pads. I have the center rear hose coming. I'll pick up the other hose from the parts store.
I appreciate the reminder about the backing plates. Hope everything heals up well F250.
I appreciate the well wishes. Looks like your going to do this thing right, that's good to see. I have to admit I'm a little jealous that you can. But in maybe 6 months I should be able to try out my new brakes too; earlier if pt goes really well. But heck I won't need my truck for hauling anything until I'm cleared to work again any way. Doc said minimum of 9 months for that. So I'll get my brakes done long before I need them. Keep us updated on how it goes, I for one have nothing better to do
Multiple times I've had the drivers rear axle seal go leaving a cloud of smoke, about $60 for the seal and you'll need the tool to remove the axle nut holding on the bearings.
Does it smoke when you step on the brake pedal? Does the vehicle drift a different direction when the brakes are applied? If your shoes are adjusted, the square o-ring around the caliper piston may not be retracting or the other calipers may be bad or air in their lines. I would replace the the caliper assembly with one from autozone (if at all for diagnostics), flush the brake fluid on all 4. You might notice something else so keep your eyes open.
With me it was definitely the brake lines- changed calipers and disks and had the same problem on and off the next months. Changed everything again because of the overheating, included the lines, no problem at all now, no burning my fingers when checking wheel temperature 🤒
I've never had a rear axle seal go bad on me before. Would be something to consider but I'm 100% sure it's the caliper. Being that I've never had a vehicle newer than 10 years old, it's not my first go-round with calipers. My wife gets the NEW fords. Lol
As far as the symptoms go, truck slows as though I was hitting the brake when I let off the pedal. Usually stuck calipers will even have a different color after they've cooled. They'll have a redish rusty color to them. Have you ever smelled brakes burning? Our kids complained the whole way home about the smell. Pulled over 3 times in less than 10 miles to let them cool a bit.
Oh yeah euro, the rims get super hot. I usually give them the spit test. Spit on the rim and watch the spit boil away.
When you get to a side to side differential of 80°F you're getting close to a pull due to friction material thermal COF. I carry one of these with me for various reasons, but its easy to check for an impending issue. When towing, I can check all the opposing surfaces, truck and trailer, and check the trailer tires for how they are running as well.
I got a few transit fleets to put a mechanic out at the fueling depot when the busses come home to find issues before they become the smoking gun.
03-22-2017, 06:54 PM
. Keep us updated on how it goes, I for one have nothing better to do
