I just snapped my front passenger side leaf spring and needed help finding the "code" so I can order a new one. I have a 2000 F250 7.3 4x4 XLT.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
Chris

 

That puppy didn't 'just' snap, I see some rust there, which indicates that it's been broken for a while. There is a manufacturer's sticker on your driver's side door jam and down near the bottom are spring codes. Expect to find a 'V' or maybe an 'X' and an 'A', with 'A' being the rear springs. Do you want to go genuine Ford or do you want aftermarket? There is a 43-818 that they claim is a Ford 'X' but it's not really...but it's close. I used those and am happy with them.

 

You will want to replace both front springs or the truck will never sit right, or maybe even ride right if they're different enough. Springs sag over time and someone else's V-code springs may be different than yours.

 

Thanks for the info. I did find the information and it seems mine is UA. I will go ahead and replace both of them since there is a lot of rust that helped caused that to break.

 

This is one of the "go to's" for springs: Leaf Springs and Suspension Parts by Auto and Truck Springs If you decide to call them, ask for Junior or Bob. They offer a discount for FTE members.

Good luck finding an OEM replacement from Ford. My dealer says they are now obsolete. That was 2 yrs ago.

There are some guys on here who have chosen the "X" coded front springs for replacement on F250's and F350's. Tugly has them on his F250 and I have them on the F350 in my sig. I am happy that I chose them. It raised the front end about 2" from where it was with the tired, sagging stockers. The ride is much improved. You will notice the seams in concrete a little more at first.

If you do any heavy towing, you may want to replace the rears as well before you find one or both of them cracked/broken.

 

As mentioned by my friend jhl3, the ride is vastly improved with my new springs. I'm not saying these will be the right ones for your situation, but here's what I have:

 

I ordered a set from SDTruckSprings and hopefully they come in on Tuesday. Does anyone have any experience taking the existing ones off? Is it difficult to get the pressure off the springs to take the bolts out? I would assume if I jack up the frame and put jack stands under it that would take off the weight tires. Is that accurate? A mechanic shop wants to charge about 320 to do both sides which isn't bad but I feel I can do this myself.

 

I didn't have the time or inclination to move heavy metal around, plus this whacks the alignment pretty good. I had a shop do it with the alignment included.

 

I only have experience replacing rear springs so I can only relate what I have read here...On the rear end (which I believe weighs less than the front end when empty) I was surprised as to how high I had to jack the truck to get the flex and pressure off of the springs. Those suckers are heavy and a wrestle to get into place. I have read something about the front bolts being tough to get at on the front springs so take a look at that, might be easier if you take the bumper off. Someone else should be along to give you more information. And yes, you want to jack it up and put jack stands on the frame. I think you'll also need to jack the axle up and down to get the springs in and out but I am not 100% on that.

 

For $320 I would gladly pay someone to do the work for me. I paid about $700 to have all four springs done and the exhaust at the same time. It was well worth it.

 

Excursion forum tech folder Sticky Thread (Read First threads), second post, scroll down to suspension section. Removing leaf springs is covered there.

Stewart

 

Thanks for the info Stewart. I found the post and will look through it. It looks very similar to this post on a 2000 Excursion.

2000 Ford Excursion V-Code Leaf Spring Installation pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.net

 

Yes, but that version makes you do too much work when it comes to accessing the front spring eye bolt. It SHOULD state to remove the front bumper instead of all the crap it tells you to remove to access the bolt.

Stewart

 

You can do this in about four hours if you are handy. Three hours if you also have a good set of impact sockets and a strong impact wrench.

Either way, you will be thankful if you start spaying all nuts and bolts at least once per day until you do the install. Kroil, Sili-Kroil, or spearmint oil and transmission fluid works wonders.

On this e99 it wasn't necessary to remove the bumper. You will have to remove the support for the trans cooler or whatever cooler it supports to access/remove the bolts in the front of the spring. I put the bolts in the reverse way so I can skip this step just in case I ever have to do this again

A ratchet strap is a huge help to pull the front axle fore or aft when attempting to align it with the index hole whether you are working alone or with a helper.

Chock the rear tires and back into the chocks thus pre-loading them and set the emergency brake. If you can, use two sets of jack stands as the article states.

I don't think this rates a 7 out of 10...more like a 3 or 4.

 

I've never done any heavy suspension work and I did this in my driveway in about 5 hours. used ratchet straps to help move axle around for alignment. Fortunately not much rust in the south so I don't remember any hardware issues other than using a map torch to heat a couple of the larger bolts. Very do-able


And my 43-818 springs leveled my truck nicely
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-springs.html